I found this diagram which describes the wiring color for the door speaker woofers. The one earlier in this thread only describes the wiring for the rear subs/fill/center speaker.

 

Why a 2 channel if you are just adding a subwoofer ?
surely a mono subwoofer amp will give you best band for buck

When i did my research i could only find 2 subwoofer amps that were appropriate for the 380w system and that could accept "true" high level inputs . Either
1. Audiocontrol ACM -1.300
2, Kicker 400.1

both can accept up to 40v of high level input so no seperate downconversion is needed. Read somewhere that high level input is actually better then low level if you had the choice of either.

Ended up going option 2 for me as was cheaper in Australia.

Other amps say they take high level inputs but often only up to 5v when you read the fine print so no safety margin. I only have the 380w system but maybe more important with the 770w version . Most likely not going to be a issue but i wanted to be sure.

Can't see the point of using a line-in converter and a seperate amp if you are only adding a sub and not playing with all the other speakers when a all in one is simpler and cheaper

 

Well, I already bought two subs that I intended to drop-in replace the stock rear subs with, until I realized the level is so low it's not even worth it. So, I started down the path of tapping the door woofer signal, which of course requires an amp. One that preferably powers the two subs I just bought. Worst case, I can ditch these subs and use the amp in bridged mode to power a single separate sub in the trunk.

Anyways, I also found the tapping point I will use for the door woofer signal. The wire loom coming out of the stock amplifier is conveniently located right under the parcel shelf cover, and you can clearly see the intertwined white/brown and white wires (correlating to the 'Speaker-Bass-Front door-Left' signal as defined in my previous post) immediately under the broken piece of electrical tape. Actually, just now looking at the picture, you can also see the white/orange and white/violet wires for the right side above it. Ignore the goo, looks like the electrical tape lost its adhesive a bit lol.


This image was taken from the trunk, facing the front of the car.

 

That is exactly where I tapped into as well.

mono amp can run dual subs , you don’t need 2 channel amp. You just have to decide wether to run them in series or parallel. Mine is now set/running at 400w into a 1ohm resistance with twin 8 inch subs.

 

Also be careful of speaker grill rattle if using the origin subwoofer brace as it sits directly against the rear speaker grill . Depending on your subwoofer speaker roll it may or may not vibrate badly so do a test fit first and modify the brace as necessary. Interested to hear what subs you have chosen given it’s free air mounting position.

 

Yes indeed, all kinds of stuff in that space behind the panels to buzz and rattle and can be a nightmare trying to quiet if you run any meaningful amount of power to those locations, Robert8 can attest to this. A seperate enclosure in the rear or powered mini subs behind the seats would be a much better choice.

 

I bought some dynamat-type material (SoundBarrier) and am anticipating this problem. We'll see how it goes. I will definitely update as I work through the project - for now it's been on hold a bit as I was between a job change and being out of town this past weekend.

 

Dynamat doesn’t stop the rattle if you are unlucky enough to get the rattle. You can’t Dynamat the back of the plastic grill and this is the bit that rattles. I have Dynamatted the entire carpeted area behind the seats and the non perforated parts of the grill too. No issues with the original sound system but still rattled once extra bass present. Fingers crossed you will be lucky and won’t happen to you as seems fairly random on who gets this problem

 

2x jl6w3 subs fed by audison lc2i pro and 1.500 amp its never going to equal a good sealed enclosure bit has added some good bass and going to put mille legend mids and tweeters in the doors along with a ap8 bass speaker

 

Where did you guys install your amplifiers? I was hoping for a stealth behind the seat install, but due to the storage cubby in the parcel shelf that's a no-go. There is also space on the opposite side of the stock amp, but I am concerned about heat output, and I would likely need a custom metal bracket to install there.

 

This was my solution for a stealth install. I piggy backed the jag factory amp onto a Audio control D6.1200. It was tucked away in the factory amp location in the right rear quarter panel by making a new mount out of 1/4 MDF. Audio controls are generally very good with heat but even this area was a bit constricted for airflow so 4 fans were added on a controller that allow each to turn on at different heat settings sequentially as the amp gets warmer. Dedicated Audio control 1.300 mono sub-woofer amp was mounted to a MDF mount to the rear as shown in the photos. If I were to do again I would have went with the Helix P Six DSP Pro as their DSP software is light years ahead of the audio control products but that would have changed some of the way this stuff was installed because the Helix does not have that cover plate I used to mount the factory amp to. The helix amp is a little smaller than the Audio Control as well so there is that. The left side quarter behind the interior panel also has a bunch of space you could use to mount an amplifier as well.

 

Just added some bass shakers to my system. Heresy to the audiophiles here I know but thought it would be fun .It is 4ohm and runs off the OEM subwoofer outputs so no addition amp required. I have disconnected the rear subs so have 4 empty amp Chanel’s left over so decided to try this and was a cheap experiment if it didn’t work. Given it is the sub channel , the level of feedback can be adjusted via the sub level of the head unit. It actually works surprisingly well so will be keeping it. Only have 1 Dayton BST-2 connected so far and of which is rated for 35w which I think is a good match for the OEM amp. Will do the passengers side next WE . I think 2 of these will be overkill for one chair.
Given it is the sub channel only lower frequencies are passed on to the bass shakers so no external cross over is required so super easy.
You can only do this if you have disconnected the subs otherwise you will damage your amp.

below are the pictures



Posi taps to one of the channels. Yellow is negative

Screwed into the back with 1cm long screws. Will leave 4 small holes if removed in the plastic backing but no one will ever see that area in reality unless you take your seats out of the car. Unit can also be tucked under the plastic seat backing without screwing but then quite low which is still fine.



Original wiring is long enough without need to splice in any extension wiring. Seat is at maximum tilt and forward position so no chance of over tensioning the wire

 

Thats a pretty good idea since the subs behind the seats were really intended to give more tactil than loud bass. Attaching to the seats will enhance the sub bass experiance.

 

Sorry but that's a truly awful solution

 

Not saying this is the best option. For those not wanting to invest what it truly take, its a decent upgrade. Definitely should provide more sub bass sensation for the driver and passenger than the garbage behind the panels.

One potential problem I do see is with the dayton only being single coil 4 ohm module, it's only going to pull half of the power from the 2 of 4 channels you use that power the factory subs which are dual 2 ohms voice coils.

 

I actually disagree. It might actually be quite a good solution or the better solution for those with a convertible. If I had to choose between leaving the oem subwoofers in place or doing this then this wins hands down irrespective of wether in a coupe or convertible.
Obviously if you have spare channels you already have a aftermarket subwoofer set up so this can just be considered as cream on top of the cake . For $100 though it the best bang for buck you can spend on upgrading in my opinion. In retrospect I would do this as the first step of upgrading the sound as quite likely may be the only upgrade some of us may need. Agreed is quite a left field type of solution but just putting it out here for other to consider. I guess it is not the pathway for those who are planning to spend $3000-7000 on their upgrade .

[/QUOTE]One potential problem I do see is with the dayton only being single coil 4 ohm module, it's only going to pull half of the power from the 2 of 4 channels you use that power the factory subs which are dual 2 ohms voice coils.[/QUOTE]

Thats the $50 risk I took when considering this . 4 ohm was the lowest I could find. There are no 2ohm shakers out there that I could find ,most are 8 or 16ohm so was worried they would be under driven. Obviously 2 connected in series will give a 2ohm load but didn’t need to do this. Ultimately it works well. I figured if the 4ohm signature series mid bass drivers could be swapped in without noticeable degradation then this should also be ok and so also proved to be the case.

 

Surely a parallel connection would give the 2ohm load, series would be additive and give 8ohm?

 

One potential problem I do see is with the dayton only being single coil 4 ohm module, it's only going to pull half of the power from the 2 of 4 channels you use that power the factory subs which are dual 2 ohms voice coils.[/QUOTE]

Thats the $50 risk I took when considering this . 4 ohm was the lowest I could find. There are no 2ohm shakers out there that I could find ,most are 8 or 16ohm so was worried they would be under driven. Obviously 2 connected in series will give a 2ohm load but didn’t need to do this. Ultimately it works well. I figured if the 4ohm signature series mid bass drivers could be swapped in without noticeable degradation then this should also be ok and so also proved to be the case.[/QUOTE]

For the price, I would put 2 on each seat and wire in parallel for the 2 ohm load needed or just put both of the ones you have on the back of the drivers seat. That should be a nice kick in the butt.

 

oops yes you are correct, parallel and not serial

 

For the price, I would put 2 on each seat and wire in parallel for the 2 ohm load needed or just put both of the ones you have on the back of the drivers seat. That should be a nice kick in the butt.[/QUOTE]

ok def worth trying out next , may end up with a massage chair soon