F-Type SVR Discussion Thread
#701
Interesting, Would love to see the differences in launch times (0 to 60mph runs) between the modes. I am assuming you are including manual shifting, because in rain snow mode, it shifts way too quick (even in sports transmission mode). It surely does not let the revs fly from my experience. Or may be I need to floor it. Another 1000 miles to complete my break in.
Dale Lomas who drives the SVR ring taxi around the ring drives that in rain mode, DSC full off and manual gears when its wet or slipper as the car allows him to make progress faster and handles faster because in the rain mode the AWD system is set as close to 50/50 as possible to give best traction and stability.
I've tried this on the road and have found the same, wet mode greatly improves the car ability and traction in the wet due to AWD working as close to 50/50.
Driving same road, same conditions in dynamic mode I often find the car getting sideways and having to lift out the power or correct the slide due to dynamic being 90% rear and then pushing more power to front as required, whereas wet mode locks the diffs as close to 50/50 as possible permanent.
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death1ord (03-15-2018)
#702
#703
#704
SVR for Sale in Colorado: any knowledge of this dealer?
Rocky Mountain Eurosport has a very nice, low mile SVR for sale, but man, the dealership reviews are pretty bad.
Anyone on the board had any dealings with them?
https://www.yelp.com/biz/rocky-mount...rosport-denver
Anyone on the board had any dealings with them?
https://www.yelp.com/biz/rocky-mount...rosport-denver
#705
#706
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njmadgenius (05-19-2018)
#707
Its really loud sqeek. It so loud when i roll up to a drive through i cant hear the person talking on the speaker till the car stops completely. However it only happens at under 5 MPH anything above that there is no noise at all. I'm also shocked a bit that the steel rotors didn't come cross drilled from the factory for this caliber of car.
#708
Its really loud sqeek. It so loud when i roll up to a drive through i cant hear the person talking on the speaker till the car stops completely. However it only happens at under 5 MPH anything above that there is no noise at all. I'm also shocked a bit that the steel rotors didn't come cross drilled from the factory for this caliber of car.
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njmadgenius (05-19-2018)
#709
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If the dealer can't fix it then your best bet is to replace the OEM brake pads with Porterfield R4S pads.
I have found that on all three of my Jags (XFS, XFR and F-Type) the stock brakes with the OEM pads made a horrible "graunch" just as I came to a stop, and replacing the pads with ceramic (or carbon/kevlar like the Porterfields) made a huge improvement. Of course the OP may have a different issue as he seems to be describing a loud squeak/squeal rather than the graunch I used to get.
I have found that on all three of my Jags (XFS, XFR and F-Type) the stock brakes with the OEM pads made a horrible "graunch" just as I came to a stop, and replacing the pads with ceramic (or carbon/kevlar like the Porterfields) made a huge improvement. Of course the OP may have a different issue as he seems to be describing a loud squeak/squeal rather than the graunch I used to get.
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njmadgenius (05-19-2018)
#710
#711
Its really loud sqeek. It so loud when i roll up to a drive through i cant hear the person talking on the speaker till the car stops completely. However it only happens at under 5 MPH anything above that there is no noise at all. I'm also shocked a bit that the steel rotors didn't come cross drilled from the factory for this caliber of car.
#712
Cross drilled vs smooth metal composite brake rotors
There's an old conundrum about cross drilled vs smooth metal brake rotors - which is better?
The theories are that cross drilled cools down faster due to enhanced ventilation so after sustained high braking run at lower temps minimizing fade - and the smooth metal camp describe that braking is achieved by friction between the pad and rotor and the swept surface area is reduced by cross drilling therefore maximal braking capacity is compromised.
This controversy has been around as long as the technique of cross-drilling - and ultimately the effects vary with several factors with each type of car and vary with the usage (road vs track).
The smooth metal composite rotors in my F-Type I would describe as flawless with incredible stopping power and they have never faded under any usage load.
While not as pretty as a set of cross-drilled - I'd imagine that to even notice their absence in the context of the beauty of the car itself I'd wonder why would?
Cheers
Aus V8S
The theories are that cross drilled cools down faster due to enhanced ventilation so after sustained high braking run at lower temps minimizing fade - and the smooth metal camp describe that braking is achieved by friction between the pad and rotor and the swept surface area is reduced by cross drilling therefore maximal braking capacity is compromised.
This controversy has been around as long as the technique of cross-drilling - and ultimately the effects vary with several factors with each type of car and vary with the usage (road vs track).
The smooth metal composite rotors in my F-Type I would describe as flawless with incredible stopping power and they have never faded under any usage load.
While not as pretty as a set of cross-drilled - I'd imagine that to even notice their absence in the context of the beauty of the car itself I'd wonder why would?
Cheers
Aus V8S
#713
Yeah, it's been covered a bunch here as well I believe. My understanding is that back in the day, cross drilled were perceived to have better ventilation/cooling capabilities. However, with today's tech the solids perform equal or better.
Take a look at IMSA Sport Car series. Highest form of sports car racing in North America and GTLM. I don't see any Ford GT, Vette C7.R, Porsche 911, etc. with cross drilled rotors. None.
The cross drilled look much better for sure and probably have better weight advantages (which in and of itself could be a good reason to switch) but I'm not sure they offer better braking and cooling overall.
Take a look at IMSA Sport Car series. Highest form of sports car racing in North America and GTLM. I don't see any Ford GT, Vette C7.R, Porsche 911, etc. with cross drilled rotors. None.
The cross drilled look much better for sure and probably have better weight advantages (which in and of itself could be a good reason to switch) but I'm not sure they offer better braking and cooling overall.
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enderle (06-28-2018)
#714
HI there
Collected the car from Autobrite, got one of the guys in work to grab some photos on a proper camera, the last image shows up the dept of the paint and the pearl effect in the paint most. Supersonic sealant really extracts the pearl effect from paint so well, in the flesh it pops like crazy.
Incredible job by the AB guys, they've got M3 in now for same treatment.
Collected the car from Autobrite, got one of the guys in work to grab some photos on a proper camera, the last image shows up the dept of the paint and the pearl effect in the paint most. Supersonic sealant really extracts the pearl effect from paint so well, in the flesh it pops like crazy.
Incredible job by the AB guys, they've got M3 in now for same treatment.
#717
2018 Grille Beam Part Number
I'm replacing the front black plastic Grille Beam (used to hang a license plate) with a carbon fiber Grille Beam for my 2018 F-Type SVR. To do this I need to get a mold made from the correct OEM Grille Beam. I'm trying to order the correct part number for a Grille Bar for a 2018 F-Type SVR. I believe that the Grille Beam part number is T-2R2828. When I showed this part to my dealer they said it's the wrong part. Can someone verify the correct part number for a 2018 F-Type SVR Grille Bar?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#719
#720