I’m interested in tuning my F-Type SVR (Velocity AP Tune), and I’m curious if it would be possible to swap out the stock ECU (ECU1) and pop in another ECU (ECU2, still OEM) and tune ECU2. And to switch back to stock I would then swap out ECU2 back to ECU1. My main curiosity’s pertain to whether or not ECU1 would act weirdly if it was taken out then popped back in a year later. If someone were to look at ECU1 after it being out of the car for a year, would they ‘see’ a time gap in the system in the form of some error? I’m aware ECUs need to be coded to the security system as well, so the real question is: can this be done without errors being thrown showing there was an ECU swap? Or would all of this be beyond the realm of possibility (even if it’s well outside the realm of practicality).

 

Can only be done if you find a dealer willing to program a new ECU to your Vin number and hand the old ECU over to you. You are looking at atleast a couple grand worth of parts and labor to get this accomplished. Just take the risk on the warranty.

 

Out of curiosity, would the old ECU be ‘deprogrammed’ once the new one is coded to the VIN? If it isn’t deprogrammed, would both ECUs then be ‘plug and play’?

 

The old one wouldn’t have to be deprogrammed, but who knows what JLR policy is regarding the matter?

 

would it be possible to just have a pre-2018 ECU coded to my car to get the pre 2018 crackle? or to have the OEM pre 2018 software (I don’t think that’s possible but not sure)? It looks like the ECU is the same, or, at least the current ECU fits the 2017 model, meaning it could potentially be coded with 2017 software. IF I could get a tech to code the car with 2017 software for me, would that work and still be under warranty as it’s still OEM ECU software? I’m so very curious now.

 

It’s not like the dealer has a cabinet full of files. They’ll download whatever JLR gives them to put on the ECU. If you want some flexibility, just get a VAP tune and tell them exactly what you want. Total cost less than an OEM ECU.

 

It's possible, but
-No need to get a brand new PCM2, it may be a used one
-Better to leave PCM1 (original) stock
-Dump a eeprom and flash from PCM1 and write those into PCM2 (genuine KTag or other tools are able to do it without opening up a PCM)
-Every time you swap a PCM - you should make a immobilizer sync with SDD or a PathFinder (depending of a model year), otherwise a car won't start

 

Won't work. 2018 and pre-2018 softwares are diffrent and it's not possible to swap between these.

 

pardon my ignorance, but if the ECU is the same and the immobilizer is the same (might not be, I’m not sure) and the engine is the same as the 2017 model, why wouldn’t I be able to flash the 2017 software if I could somehow get a copy of it? (I’m not questioning whether what you said is true, I’m just trying to find out why it’s true)

also @Unhingd the ECU is listed at ~$1100, and SDD and KTag are about $150 total meaning the grand total of this would be $1250 + time (which corona has provided me with plenty of) so if this saved the warranty I’d be VERY interested at a price of $1250 on a $150k car, and could go get the VAP tune for $2250 total which is cheaper than a new exhaust!

Also, just so we’re on the same page, this is the ECU part I’m referencing: https://parts.jaguarpalmbeach.com/p/.../C2D54092.html

 

My understanding that there are multiple flags, not limited to ECU that will brand your car as tuned. So if your concern is with warranty, getting second swappable ECU will not save you from getting blacklisted.

 

*If* I'm able to flash the 2017 code, which it looks like may not be possible, It shouldn't trigger any "tuned" codes(I could be very wrong here). On the other hand if I have a second ECU, use a VAP Tune, and what you're saying is true, then yes it wouldn't make sense to swap an ECU to tune, as the car would record it elsewhere anyway. So hopefully we can force the old software on, maybe from downloading it off an older ECU actually still running the software, then copying that to a new stock ECU... But that may be impossible.

 

Diffrent layout of data in a software, diffent CAN message matrix. Also, the software checks the vehicle configuration (model year, engine type, engine power stage and others). There's more - 2017 engine software won't work with 2018 transmission software, giving a multiple errors.
Used PCMs are usually much cheaper, however $150 ktag is a clone and it would require to open up a PCM to work with, only genuine one will be able to work on a bench without a pain/evidences of opened PCM.

 

PCM only. But if SDD sniffs "Non OEM DTC" once - it sends report to JLR server.
However it's still possible to alter this DTC or turn it off (well, at least untill the software reflash, which will overwrite this changes).

 

Sounds like a crazy idea if you ask me, no ones done it, no one really knows how to do, even if it can be done.
You be the guinea pig and let us know how you get on

 

A COPIED/CLONED knock-off KTag is $150. Those are Chinese rip-offs. I would not want to use one of those for anything because A. If something goes wrong, there is zero support, and B. These work by using a cloned tool ID to log into the Alientech Server so they are stealing all Alientech's IP.

Even with a cloned KTag Master tool, you still need someone willing to write & code the files for you, and you'll find that almost all tuners will not do that with a cloned tool, or even a Master Tool.

 

Most of the clones are not logging into alientech servers, they are not working online and that's why these are outdated and would not support cars, newer than MY16-MY17.
Besides, the alientech itself (even original ones) are not producing a good equipment - the original ktag is much slower than other available tools, they were last to introduce a bench mode for edc17/med17 and they are wanting too much for their tools (not to mention junk software like ecm titanium).

 

We don't really use KTag and don't use Titanium at all. But we certainly wouldn't work with clone tools.