When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Not quite a 3500 lb car, but how did they work for you?
Let me share a couple of pics of the difference. The first one is the MotoCraft. I warped the hell out of the MotoCrafts. Look at the pad smear. They can't take it.
Now, here's the Centric High Carbon.
Look at how much smoother everything is. They weren't warped to hell. I will use them again several more times. High recommend.
Why not go one step further and use the Stoptech slotted sport rotors? I used Stoptech on my 350Z that I tracked and loved them. (Are there any differences from 2014 through 2016 on the size of the brakes on the F-Types?)
Perhaps I missed this earlier in the thread, but if you're talking about tracking this car on a regular basis, why not just upgrade to the full carbon ceramic brakes rather than try to make the steel brakes work better? That is what they are designed for after all.
Why not go one step further and use the Stoptech slotted sport rotors? I used Stoptech on my 350Z that I tracked and loved them. (Are there any differences from 2014 through 2016 on the size of the brakes on the F-Types?)
Great question. Many times, racers don't want slotted rotors. The gain is minimal, and your goal is that you have as much metal for friction and heat dissipation as possible. Do slots dissipate pad outgassing? Yes. Does it make a huge difference? No. Is it negligible? Almost. Check out the race cars. Do they have slotted? Usually not. Do they have what are known as "blanks," like I'm showing you? Yes. Just put that in your back pocket.
I'm glad I stopped here. There's a lot to learn about bringing a Jag to the track. I had to learn from others. I'm now passing this onto my fellow Jag enthusiasts.
Perhaps I missed this earlier in the thread, but if you're talking about tracking this car on a regular basis, why not just upgrade to the full carbon ceramic brakes rather than try to make the steel brakes work better? That is what they are designed for after all.
I just don't understand why you'd spend 14 grand on something you could do for 400 bucks, like much of the racing world.
I'm sure the price of CC brakes will come down, but for now, no way.
I just don't understand why you'd spend 14 grand on something you could do for 400 bucks, like much of the racing world.
I'm sure the price of CC brakes will come down, but for now, no way.
I don't track my cars so I am no expert, but I suspect the CC brakes pay for themselves over time. From what I understand, you replace them less often, and you don't have to worry about fade or warping while on the track.
I'd imagine you can get them online for cheaper than full retail, but who knows.
I don't track my cars so I am no expert, but I suspect the CC brakes pay for themselves over time. From what I understand, you replace them less often, and you don't have to worry about fade or warping while on the track.
I'd imagine you can get them online for cheaper than full retail, but who knows.
Merlin, you're right. If you don't want to worry about this problem with warping and replacing your rotors, get the CC. You'd still have to do pads and fluid.
I still don't see how the CC's would pay themselves off. I would need a new set of rotors once or maybe twice a year in front. That's $155 to $310 a year. Now. Pads. You'll need pads every event or two for about $250 from what I'm judging by Carbotech's website.
How many years would you have to track to make that up? A lot. To me, right now, CC rotors don't make sense.
I still don't see how the CC's would pay themselves off. I would need a new set of rotors once or maybe twice a year in front. That's $155 to $310 a year. Now. Pads. You'll need pads every event or two for about $250 from what I'm judging by Carbotech's website.
Those prices also assume you're doing the replacement work yourself, right?
Originally Posted by The Weatherman
How many years would you have to track to make that up? A lot. To me, right now, CC rotors don't make sense.
I get what you're saying. Though aren't you also limited in performance with steel brakes? I've read these heavy cars hit brake fade after like 8-10 laps. That may be plenty, though I suppose you could also plan to be less aggressive in your braking and acceleration to compensate. I suppose that would only be a problem if you're focused on best times, competition, or ladders.
Those prices also assume you're doing the replacement work yourself, right?
I get what you're saying. Though aren't you also limited in performance with steel brakes? I've read these heavy cars hit brake fade after like 8-10 laps. That may be plenty, though I suppose you could also plan to be less aggressive in your braking and acceleration to compensate. I suppose that would only be a problem if you're focused on best times, competition, or ladders.
Yes. You are correct. I'm pricing it doing it myself. (It's easier than you think.)
If you have good pads, fluid and ventilation, your brakes will hold up just fine. There are a lot of rumors out there about fade. I used to believe all that until I talked to actual racers and instructors. Then I did it myself. Honestly, there are barely any cars out there that are harder on brakes than a Focus ST, and boy do I bring those brakes to the limit.
One last thing, if you can lock up your tire or kick in ABS, your brakes are strong enough. The iron brakes will do this all day as well as the CC's.
If I had 14 grand to just pee away, trust me, I'd get the CC's. But even they will wear out eventually. I thought it was interesting in a post I had above with a .pdf from Jaguar saying if you're running the CC's at the track, put on the scoops. Those babies must get really hot.
The CCB will wear down with regular track usage and then become very costly to replace. Also the paint on the yellow calipers will discolor when heated. The guide put out by Jaguar says to expect discoloration over time but I turned my calipers orange in one day at Sebring.
These cars are HEAVY as others have mentioned at tracking them regularly will get pricey as they will chew through the consumableswhich is a shame because they can be fun and 550 HP is a waste on the street. . I preferred tracking my 3100 pound Z06. I'm limiting my track days to 4 times a year with car (I'll be racing most other weekends).
If I were to go the Jaguar route again I might consider a V6 manual if I thought about tracking it, without CCB. Unless Jag comes out with a lightweight hardcore track machine ala GT3 but I doubt it
MC
2015 Jaguar F-Type coupe R
1996 Acura NSX-T
1995 Mazda Miata #34
The CCB will wear down with regular track usage and then become very costly to replace. Also the paint on the yellow calipers will discolor when heated. The guide put out by Jaguar says to expect discoloration over time but I turned my calipers orange in one day at Sebring.
These cars are HEAVY as others have mentioned at tracking them regularly will get pricey as they will chew through the consumableswhich is a shame because they can be fun and 550 HP is a waste on the street. . I preferred tracking my 3100 pound Z06. I'm limiting my track days to 4 times a year with car (I'll be racing most other weekends).
If I were to go the Jaguar route again I might consider a V6 manual if I thought about tracking it, without CCB. Unless Jag comes out with a lightweight hardcore track machine ala GT3 but I doubt it
MC
2015 Jaguar F-Type coupe R
1996 Acura NSX-T
1995 Mazda Miata #34
This is excellent information, MC. Excellent. It's good to see some of you coming out of the woodwork. Painted calipers are never going to hold their color under high heat conditions. I'm even miffed that Jag has the painted red on the "Super Performance" braking package.
Basically, what you're saying is that your car held up, but it just eats comsumables, right? I go through a set of pads every two days at Road America, so this isn't really new to me. The rotors will probably be shot after 4 days. (4, 25 minute sessions a day.)
Cars are heavy, now. Yeah, we still have a few stragglers that keep it light, but they are few and far between. It now seems to be a battle of trying to bring all that weight under control.
I would not consider tracking my F-Type because of it's weight "problem." However, I bought the base V6 convertible to serve exclusively as a fun street cruiser.
I too thoroughly enjoyed my track time in my C6 Z06 and Lotus Elise, which were both beautifully suited to that purpose.
This echoes my concerns after a couple of sessions at the track where I was starting to get worried about the brakes on the long back straight that you go from maybe 120mph to 40mph. Just too much weight to stop. Hopefully the aftermarket solutions you guys have been discussing fixes this w/o need to for CCB, but stock brakes I would not trust for serious track use.
I would not consider tracking my F-Type because of it's weight "problem." However, I bought the base V6 convertible to serve exclusively as a fun street cruiser.
I too thoroughly enjoyed my track time in my C6 Z06 and Lotus Elise, which were both beautifully suited to that purpose.
I keep hearing about weight, but see things at Road America like S6's, RS7's, S6 Avants... I'm trying to think of more "heavy stuff." If they're out there pounding those things, you'd think the F-Type would be able to. I mean, there's a .pdf I linked in a previous post about getting the F-Type ready for the track.
You are right, though. There are better track cars, but it's fun to have your track toy also be able to go out cruising around on the street. I see people on the XK forum tracking theirs. Aren't those as heavy?
This echoes my concerns after a couple of sessions at the track where I was starting to get worried about the brakes on the long back straight that you go from maybe 120mph to 40mph. Just too much weight to stop. Hopefully the aftermarket solutions you guys have been discussing fixes this w/o need to for CCB, but stock brakes I would not trust for serious track use.
Very interesting reads. I feel like those tests are a little "extreme." They're just slamming on the brakes over and over. One thing we all know is that you should never just stop your car when the brakes are really hot. Keep moving. Get some air flowing.
Plus, remember again with the pad types, here. Those were stock pads. I guarantee if you check with Jaguar on the pads used, they aren't meant for temperatures like that. That's why they actually started on fire! That's the pad burning. If you'd put in some proper, high temp pads, I believe you'd be fine, especially with those Jaguar brake scoops on.
I would not consider tracking my F-Type because of it's weight "problem." However, I bought the base V6 convertible to serve exclusively as a fun street cruiser.
I too thoroughly enjoyed my track time in my C6 Z06 and Lotus Elise, which were both beautifully suited to that purpose.
I have a similar outlook. Until a few weeks ago I was cross-shopping between the C7 Z06, the Boxster/Cayman GTS, and the F-Type. I easily spent 4+ months comparing these vehicles, test driving, and reading everything I could find on them. At the end of the process, I ended up going with the F-Type because it appealed the most to me... best sounding, best looking, best ride, while still being very exciting and fast. All in all that made the Jag the best overall street/cruise car to me. Both the Corvette and Porsche would have made better track cars (well once they fix the engine overheat issue on the Z06), as they were lighter and marginally better in handling/performance, but I don't really want to take my own car on a track anyway.
I would like to spend some time on a track at some point, but when I do, I'll probably sign up for one of the performance driving schools with multi-day track access so I don't put the wear and tear on my own car.
Basically, what you're saying is that your car held up, but it just eats comsumables right?.
Car holds up well. Three track days. No break fade. Engine temp stayed normal which is more than I can say for the C7Z06 in the garage next to me who had to cut his day short after one session because of overheating issues. My p-zero are shot with 5000 miles on them. You got to pay to play.
That the coating on the CCB calipers discolours so badly is a surprise. Given their USP, you would think that the manufacturer would either sell a colour that didn't discolour, or choose a more robust coating.
If you're buying a used car, would you buy one that shows the brakes have been hammered given the cost of replacement parts?
Those steel discs look like they were used with pads that couldn't cope with the temperature. When disks overheat, they change colour. Typically blue or yellow, depending on how hot they got.
Also, based on personal experience, if you make the traction control work for a living in low grip winter driving conditions, it's entirely possible to get the discs on a Jaguar hot enough to glow...
06-08-2015, 09:02 PM
