Fitting spacers the correct way
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#2
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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No loctite needed or wanted, just torque them to the same spec as the wheel nuts (92 foot/lb IIRC).
For the fronts you need some way of holding the wheel tight or it spins when you go to torque up the spacer nuts, easiest way is to have a helper in the car with a foot on the brake pedal.
If on your lonesome I have read that you can stick a large screwdriver in a vane of the brake rotor so that the handle of the screwdriver jams against the ground and stops the wheel from turning. Never tried this method myself and I would be worried about breaking the rotor or the screwdriver letting go and chipping the paint!
Yes, probably a good idea to check them again after say 200 miles although I have never done that and never had a problem with a loose spacer nut.
For the fronts you need some way of holding the wheel tight or it spins when you go to torque up the spacer nuts, easiest way is to have a helper in the car with a foot on the brake pedal.
If on your lonesome I have read that you can stick a large screwdriver in a vane of the brake rotor so that the handle of the screwdriver jams against the ground and stops the wheel from turning. Never tried this method myself and I would be worried about breaking the rotor or the screwdriver letting go and chipping the paint!
Yes, probably a good idea to check them again after say 200 miles although I have never done that and never had a problem with a loose spacer nut.
The following users liked this post:
powerhouse (10-28-2019)
#3
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No loctite needed or wanted, just torque them to the same spec as the wheel nuts (92 foot/lb IIRC).
For the fronts you need some way of holding the wheel tight or it spins when you go to torque up the spacer nuts, easiest way is to have a helper in the car with a foot on the brake pedal.
If on your lonesome I have read that you can stick a large screwdriver in a vane of the brake rotor so that the handle of the screwdriver jams against the ground and stops the wheel from turning. Never tried this method myself and I would be worried about breaking the rotor or the screwdriver letting go and chipping the paint!
Yes, probably a good idea to check them again after say 200 miles although I have never done that and never had a problem with a loose spacer nut.
For the fronts you need some way of holding the wheel tight or it spins when you go to torque up the spacer nuts, easiest way is to have a helper in the car with a foot on the brake pedal.
If on your lonesome I have read that you can stick a large screwdriver in a vane of the brake rotor so that the handle of the screwdriver jams against the ground and stops the wheel from turning. Never tried this method myself and I would be worried about breaking the rotor or the screwdriver letting go and chipping the paint!
Yes, probably a good idea to check them again after say 200 miles although I have never done that and never had a problem with a loose spacer nut.
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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https://www.tunershop.co.uk/eibach-p...ar-f-type.html
#6
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Thanks for that , on the lowering springs maybe something i need, Do you think that 2.0 would have the same front and rear springs as the V6, cant see jaguar spending the money on making a set especially for the 2.0 although the 2.0 engine would be a lot lighter at the front, Eibach do a set 15mm rear 25mm front not to low, when done my 2.0 would be on 15mm spacers front and rear and 305's rear 265's front, will do some measurements when done.
https://www.tunershop.co.uk/eibach-p...ar-f-type.html
https://www.tunershop.co.uk/eibach-p...ar-f-type.html
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powerhouse (10-29-2019)
#7
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powerhouse (10-29-2019)
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