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Jag Bass on one edge you get the purple ethernet input socket that you connect the car's ethernet plug into once you remove it from the OEM amp. I think this plug is green but mine shows purple as it's an extension cable. You also get a multi-pin power plug that connects into the socket next to the ethernet. In this plug you get two black wires, two white wires and two yellow wires, I connected the the pairs together to make three. Black is ground and the others are permanent 12V + and REM OUT. I can't recall at the moment which is which out of the two colours but it says so in the box. It's permanent live because the DED only fires up when it gets an input from the head unit and then the REM OUT from the DED fires up your amp which should also have a permanent 12V fused supply. There are no details as to whether the DED should have a fuse on the 12V supply but I added a 1amp in line fuse and all good.
On the other edge it's not like the details on the website. You have TOS-F & TOS-R and my Toslink lead goes between the Audison DSP and TOS-F on the DED. TOS-F & TOS-R are for separate DSP's but I don't know anyone that has a separate DSP for the front and another for the rear. Possible but I don't know what audiophiles would think about tuning and balancing etc.
You leave the dip switches as is and connect to nothing else on the DED if your set up is like mine. I haven't used the co-axials or the TOS IN or even updated the device as currently don't know how. You'll need to download the BT Controller App on your android tablet/phone (only myself and now Paul has the correct APP) so I can text that to you on Whatsapp when you need it. This allows you to lower parking sensor volume, radar volume and nav volume etc as out of the factory it's on an ear piercing max. I've found that when I take it off max with the App I can actually thereafter control it from the car volume knob like OEM, which is great cos you don't have to keep faffing about with the App for long and also you can make quick adjustments to the volume as you would do normally depending on background noise etc. I don't think even the DED factory know that can be done. I have the instructions to lower the sensor volumes etc which I can send on Whatsapp and explain how to do it cos it's in Chinese . As far as I'm away no audio installer in the UK has set up a JLR DED yet so I had to figure it myself. DED's for other cars are set up in different ways and some on the laptop but the JLR is Bluetooth App on Android..
Last edited by Dale Melton; 10-26-2023 at 07:47 PM.
On the other edge it's not like the details on the website. You have TOS-F & TOS-R and my Toslink lead goes between the Audison DSP and TOS-F on the DED. TOS-F & TOS-R are for separate DSP's but I don't know anyone that has a separate DSP for the front and another for the rear. Possible but I don't know what audiophiles would think about tuning and balancing etc.
Are you able to fade the sound from front to rear and adjust balance left to right from the HU? Their website reckons that's what the dual DSPs are required for: "Output signals to two DSPs, and the front,back, left and right can be independently controlled when two DSPs are added."
Dan yes to the left and right but no to the fader. I think the capability of the DED to control two DSP sounds good but in practice it's probably best matched to much larger systems with separate zones etc that can be controlled individually. Each DSP might need it's own DRC (assuming you fit a DRC) and who wants that? That said a single DRC can control volume of two separate zones but this I think that's two zones on a single DSP. And then how do you set it all up properly to get the DSPs to work together in such a small cabin like the f type. I doubt anyone has ever done this.
When setting up any system like mine the balance and fader in the head unit should be centralised and the equaliser settings should be set mid position also. All the tuning, time alignment, channel volumes etc are all done in the DSP software on the PC. With the Forza DSP you can set up to 6 memory functions. I have memory 1 set up as driver/passenger surround sound and memory 2 as driver only focus with the sound stage up at the dashboard like you are at a concert. The audiophiles love the latter but I like the forma for club music. If you have a soft top you can have a memory setting for top up and top down also. If you wanted to go all the way and use the 6 memories you could do something like this:
1. Top up and driver focus
2. Top down and driver focus
3. Top up and driver/passenger focus
4. Top down and driver/passenger focus
5. Top up, driver focus with rears muted
6. Top up, driver/passenger focus with rears muted
or any other combo. You switch between memories on the DRC on the fly.
When the DSP is set up correctly with programmed memories you shouldn't need to touch the head unit audio settings ever again.
A slight negative on my set up is that I get the parking sensor alerts coming from all speakers instead of the rear alert from the rear and the front alert from the front but in all serious I don't even notice this and I bet in other cars this is what happens anyway. You still know what's the front and rear though because of the differing alert tones etc. Plus you know the direction you are driving. I think two separate DSPs would correct this but could bring other issues like having to have two DRCs. I guess two DSPs gives you more DSP channels ( I have 14) so you can go active all round even with bridging channels but will active at the rears really be that noticeable? You can have active at the rear anyway depending on what DSP you use and whether you bridge channels or not. I couldn't because of how many channels I bridged and I wanted DSP for the sub so I could control sub volume via the DRC.
You then have the cost of the extra DSP also to consider if you go with two DSP. Worth it all in a party bus or limo though
All else depends on what DSP/Amp you have so you'll have limitations if this is already installed and you are not looking to change or add anymore.
EDIT: Now I've said all this it suddenly dawned (that's what you'll see outside when you read this message cos now you'll be in bed ) on me why you want front/rear fade and that's because you have a four seater so you might want to cut the rears or the fronts depending on who's in the car. No matter because you can set this up as one of your memory settings as above so:
1. Driver focus all speakers on
2. Driver/passenger focus all speakers on
3. Driver/passenger focus with cut to rears
4. Driver/passenger focus with cut to fronts
The alternative to the cut is to just lower them in the DSP and save to the appropriate memory. I believe also you can allocate the fronts as Zone 1 and the rears to Zone 2 and individually control the volume of either the fronts or the rears from the DRC. This is all without a 2nd DSP. The DRC has up to 7 functions and you tick on the DSP software which ones to use. I use just Sub Volume and Memory Change only and you can allocate whatever colour you want the led to show on each function. You might use 3/4 functions if you haven't got a sub so could be Master Volume (if you prefer to turn that instead of the car volume knob), Memory Change, Zone 1 Volume and Zone 2 Volume.
Let me know what you are trying to do and what other hardware you have (speakers, amps & cross overs) and I can advise if you want.
Last edited by Dale Melton; 10-27-2023 at 09:08 AM.
Thanks for the info mate, really appreciate these write ups. As I was asking the question about fade I actually had the same (but opposite) realisation as you did - that front/rear fade probably isn't a big deal in your two-seater! I didn't think there was much advantage in keeping it and your post confirms that.. makes way more sense for the DSP to handle it.
I have a pretty good idea where I'll go from here - to be honest I'll likely model my system on yours as the jag's to-do list is already waaaaaay too long for me to be researching an entire audio system from scratch 😂 The biggest problem for me is where I'm going to put it all... I'd like to retain the folding back seats which will limit what I can do. About a year ago when I realised I didn't know how to get the signal from the HU I stopped working on a custom install and started looking into a factory Meridian Surround upgrade, so I never got to thinking about where I was going to put amps and stuff... I think I'll dynamat the sub enclosure next weekend and take some measurements while I'm doing that. The XE's sub enclosure is accessed through the rear passenger wheel well so that'll be fun!
If you drew a diagram when you were designing the system I'd love to see it (if you don't mind sharing - feel free to say no) as I've managed to sketch up a rough idea based on your posts, but you've got a fair bit going on here and it'd be good to see it all. Back in my day it went HU > EQ > Amp > crossover > speakers and that was it! I'm not asking you to sit down and draw one for me, but something gives me the feeling you already have one 🤣
I have a unit currently enroute to me, hope to have by next week. Once I get a chance to test out to make sure everything is working as designed, the US vendor may be open to a group buy.
Received my interface today, very solid piece. Good bye AudioControl hello Helix!
It's simple and effective
earth and live and remote out
Toslink to amp
Input orig plug from meridian And of course a full set of hertz legend front and rear
Jag Bass, and searching Tuning Solutions on the internet brings nothing up does it? Lucky we know now who makes it. PM reply sent.
Actually I believe the unit is made by Penhui and gpsway is involved in the marketing. They have a MOST unit on aliexpress with almost identical case as the DED unit. Their website also is more consistent with a company capable of doing the reverse engineering necessary to build a unit like the DED.
Hi Dale,
Do you have any pictures of the 10" subwoofer install? rated with the audio quality in my 2019 SVR I decided on a complete revamp. Installed two new Audison Forza class D amplifiers (one a DSP) powering new Hertz Legend ML speakers all round with dedicated wiring. Also fitted is a JL Monoblock amp running a 10" sub in the boot to provide over 2500 watts in total with still room for golf clubs. OEM amp gone and replaced with Digital Ethernet Decoder (not a Mobridge as they won't say when theirs is ready). Maybe the first currently installed in a f type. If you have M.O.S.T protocol (fibre optic ring) in your car instead of the most recent ethernet then you use an Audison Bit DMI instead of the Digital Ethernet Decoder. Either one goes between the head unit and the DSP. Without these you leave the OEM amp in place and use the speaker outputs from the amp as your low level inputs to your new DSP amp. Still a nice sound but elimination of the OEM amp brightens things up albeit naturally a little loss in volume due to the elimination of that amp. But not much though as it's insanely loud :-). Catch more info of my self build at new instagram page.....TrueBlueSVR.
Two Forza amps sit behind alcantara covered beauty panel. Amps and digital ethernet decoder mounted to ABS panel. Re-worked pods for mids and custom grp enclosures for woofers. Re-modelled tweeter sails covered in nappa leather. 180mm woofers installed in highly insulated doors. DRC fits perfectly in hole left by cigarette lighter. Set to control sub volume and channel selection.[/QUOTE]
10-26-2023, 04:07 PM
. As far as I'm away no audio installer in the UK has set up a JLR DED yet so I had to figure it myself. DED's for other cars are set up in different ways and some on the laptop but the JLR is Bluetooth App on Android..
) on me why you want front/rear fade and that's because you have a four seater so you might want to cut the rears or the fronts depending on who's in the car. No matter because you can set this up as one of your memory settings as above so:
