Perfect attire for driving the Shaguar.


Sorry for veering the thread OT (as usual.)

 

Would you mind sharing the easy way to get the clip back in - when you have the time? I intend to do a pad change right after I take delivery of my car and the clip replacement seems to be considered a PITA!

Thanks, Dave

 

[QUOTE=F-Envy;1909728]Would you mind sharing the easy way to get the clip back in - when you have the time? I intend to do a pad change right after I take delivery of my car and the clip replacement seems to be considered a PITA!

+1 Thanks in advance

 

OK!!! Unhingd is back!!! Project proceeding quickly now.


Now for some half-time statistics:


OEM: Rear 24.4 lbs Front 37.2 lbs (boat anchors)
WT: Rear 18.0 lbs Front 21.4 lbs


Total weight savings (4 corners): 44.4 lbs of unsprung weight. Wow!

 

It’s good to have you back U! (What’d you do with the other guy?). I know. He’ll likely surface in time for your next modification. Any minute now...

 

I just discovered this in my Dropbox - a thorough write-up on changing F-type pads, by Simonnallen here. Forgot I had it - enjoy!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lrp4za7ea0...ement.pdf?dl=0

 

 

I'm not a huge fan of Simonnallen's method of changing the front brake pads, as it involves not removing the caliper pins and leaving the caliper bolted to the caliper bracket via those pins. The only real advantage to this method is you don't need to faff about with refitting the anti-rattle clips, but once you figure out the technique/knack of this there is nothing to worry about (see later).
I tried it this way once and I simply could not get the old pads out let alone get new thicker pads in and it was waaaaay easier to simply take the caliper pins out.
Also, if all you are doing is replacing the pads then you don't need to touch the 15 mm bracket bolts at all, just take the caliper pins out (9 mm hex driver) and swing the caliper off the rotor.
Last but not least I prefer to at least inspect the condition of the caliper pins and then clean and lightly lubricate them (with high-temp brake grease), a stuck/sticky/seized caliper slide pin is not unknown on these brakes especially with the amount of dust coming off the stock pads and if the plastic plug/cover over the pin has come off. You also get much better access to the parts of the caliper and bracket where the pads sit so it's much easier to clean off any built up brake dust and other crud.

How to put the anti-rattle clip back on:
Place the two "feet" / ends in the spots they are meant to be (takes a little bit of pressure) and hold them very firmly there. The main "plate" will now be sitting up against the caliper but about 1 cm outwards of where it should be.
While continuing to hold the "feet" in place (this is where a third hand or a helper comes in very handy), grab a large flat-blade screwdriver, stick it under the exact middle of the thin spring bit, and lever the spring/plate "up and in". Watch for the little clips on the ends of the feet, sometimes they get bent and dislodged, very easy to put back on and squeeze tight with pliers. Also watch for the two little bright metal "spacers" that sit in little recesses in the caliper and take some of the pressure of the spring (about 2 mm wide and like a small washer bent 90 degrees), they tend to fall out fairly easily. I have found they are not vital (I have lost a few over the years!) and you can live without them. You may not succeed the first time but when you do you will wonder what all the fuss was about!

 

 

 

Any guess on how much the front caliper assembly weighs?

 

Lance, the front 380 mm brakes are twin piston, no other F-Type brakes are.
Still pretty crappy for such a car and still hugely heavy though, some 6 piston Brembos would be much better and assuredly weigh a lot less.
VividRacing (the mob who also sell the Wortec rotors, mentioned earlier in this thread) do 6 pot Brembos for the F-Type, but they ain't cheap and they come with bigger Brembo rotors (405 mm) so I don't know if they would work with the Wortec rotors or if they do whether Vivid would sell you a set. See here: https://www.vividracing.com/brembo-b...=Jaguar+F-Type

Edit - I made my usual mistake and didn't scroll down the linked Vivid page far enough.
Further down are listings for Brembo 380 mm brake kits, so odds on Vivid will sell just the Brembo calipers for the 380 mm rotors.

Edit 2 - rookie mistake number 2 - I didn't read the listings for those brakes closely enough, they say "Jaguar XF 16-17" not "Jaguar F-Type". However I know for a fact that all 380 mm front brake rotors and calipers for the X250 XF (2009 to 2015) are absolutely identical in every way to all 380 mm F-Type brakes, so they will probably fit up perfectly. The doubt is "Jaguar XF 16-17" ie the later model X260 XF, as I have no idea if or how the 380 mm brakes on the X260 may have changed compared to the X250. If there was any change at all it was most likely to the caliper brackets rather than the calipers, and in turn the location of the caliper bracket mounting holes (where the bracket mounts to the hub). I don't think it would be possible to tell for sure without someone attempting to fit up these calipers to an F-Type with 380 mm rotors.

 

A lot!
There is no need to take the caliper right off the car, not even to change the rotor, to take it right off so you could weigh it you have to disconnect and plug/clamp the brake line. What I have done many times and what Lance almost certainly did was to leave the brake line connected and support/hang the caliper in the wheel arch with a bit of wire or similar.
That said it's not a huge job to remove the brake line, just a single bolt (15 mm???) but plugging or clamping it to prevent brake fluid leaking can be a hassle and once you remove the little copper crush washers that fit either side of the bolt you are supposed to renew those washers.
Maybe one of our intrepid FMs who is about to fit the Wortec rotors can take one for the team and remove and weigh a front brake caliper and maybe a rear one as well?

 

+1. I wasn't about to muck with breaking open the hydraulic line if I didn't have to. And yes, my error, the fronts are two cylinders. However they are both on the same side of the rotor. From a design standpoint, there are weight and reliability advantages to putting them on opposite sides. No need to build in sliding track mechanisms that can get fouled with dirt and rust.

 

That's what I've been saying all along, although my description was "anvils."

Sliding yoke calipers have no place on a car like this.

 

Your analogy description is even more on point. I had no clue how heavy it was until I had to hold it up while wiring it out of the way during the rotor swap.

 

I'm with Lance, I reckon they are more like boat anchors than anvils!
Maybe we should start a poll?

 

Are the SVR calipers the same?

 

Designed to work on thinner rotors (assuming you are talking about Carbo-Ceramic setup)

 

So I started the rear brakes last night, thanks to Unhinged for the enhancement of the maintenance mode instructions - all else was pretty straightforward. Likely still need to paint the caliper bolts - my car has no shiny metal showing anywhere else, but I'm happy with the look.

Tried my best to weigh the rear caliper while leaving brake line attached, I think they are pretty close to 10.5 lbs, plus or minus 1. Will try the same with the fronts, don't know if I'll get to those today or not.

I know someone else posted about the extreme taper on the porterfield pads, can't imagine why that is necessary or is a good idea. See pic, there is significantly less area at least during the first 50% wear compared to stock.
So as your pads wear you expose greater pad area and get more breaking power. Wha?