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I forgot to follow up on this; yes the factory bolts had adequate space; just barely but good. I've got many comments on the spacers/stance - love it. Would really like 2" lower but cannot do; need all the clearance. A photographer I am not, just waiting for the coffee chick in the bikini to make my breakfast.
Last edited by Burt Gummer; 04-02-2017 at 06:04 PM.
I know that buying 17mm means no grinding of the studs. However, I ended up buying the 15mm spacers from Larry at MotorSport Tech and also picked up a set of storm wheels. Does anyone know if the 15mm spacers and Storm wheels will still require stud grinding? I thought the Storm wheels had more clearance but I'm not positive. Thank you!
I have the 17mm spacers and Gyrodynes and had to grind my studs. Ground them flat, they were definitely touching the inside of the wheel. Took about 2mm off to be safe.
I have tornadoes, and with the 17mm spacers my installer still had to grind a "tiny" bit off to get them completely flat. He said it wasn't a big deal at all
I guess my question was more in regards to the Storm wheels which were designed for the CC brakes. I appreciate the feedback though!
Originally Posted by Greggbhill
I have tornadoes, and with the 17mm spacers my installer still had to grind a "tiny" bit off to get them completely flat. He said it wasn't a big deal at all
I have tornadoes, and with the 17mm spacers my installer still had to grind a "tiny" bit off to get them completely flat. He said it wasn't a big deal at all
From doing it myself, I believe just grinding off the cupped end and 'M' marking is enough. Just make the end flat. It takes about one minute per bolt with a 4" powered grinding wheel.
Doing it that way you minimize the risk of throwing something out of balance also. Unground, touching bolts causes a 'whirling' rotation sound as a warning.
If it were me though I would as a future safety precaution. At least remove the indent/M. That is about 1.5-2mm. What if you put a spare on it someday or something unforeseen?
A 4" grinder is $50 and it is super easy. Or a shop would probably charge under $25 extra.
Anyone near Portland can feel free to borrow mine anytime. In order to grind the studs flat you remove the Dewalt hood/shield from the rotating wheel. Wear glass, the sparks are manageable and it takes very little effort. If you use a cordless 18v model like mine you'll need two charged batteries.
The spacers are a must have for these F-Types no doubt. Looks so much better with the tires filling out the fenders.
Last edited by Burt Gummer; 04-30-2017 at 05:04 PM.
I noticed this thread a couple of days ago and thought I was going to get lucky with being in a group buy. lol Is there a possibility of a group anytime soon, or should I just purchase?
I noticed this thread a couple of days ago and thought I was going to get lucky with being in a group buy. lol Is there a possibility of a group anytime soon, or should I just purchase?
TIA!
They aren't *that* expensive, and Lenny gave me a discount when i mentioned i was part of the F-Type Forum... so i just pulled the trigger. If you want black, dont forget to ask for anodized black - no extra cost, just another day to complete
Luckily the F-Type is my fair weather 2nd vehicle so I'll work it out.
If the beep beep wrench screwed me I'd go back through the spacers and wheels and adjust.
I've had more than average hassles with the spacers but not regretful at all - worth it.
I have had zero issues with the spacers. If you did not adequately shorten the studs, the wheels will loosen over time as the studs dig their way into the interior of the spokes.
This is after I shortened the studs. Will know more later. My guess is the beep beep torque wrench is lying to me. I should have taken others advice on here and got a better one.
I've never used a torque wrench in my life, and I've removed and replaced hundreds of wheels and wheel nuts, and never had a single problem with under or over torquing.
My trusty setting which has never failed me is "two grunts and a fart".
I've never used a torque wrench in my life, and I've removed and replaced hundreds of wheels and wheel nuts, and never had a single problem with under or over torquing.
My trusty setting which has never failed me is "two grunts and a fart".
I will use a clicker torque wrench for consistency, but always rely on the grunt quotient as a sanity check.
They aren't *that* expensive, and Lenny gave me a discount when i mentioned i was part of the F-Type Forum... so i just pulled the trigger. If you want black, dont forget to ask for anodized black - no extra cost, just another day to complete
Thanks, I'll get in touch with him and get some ordered.
I guess my question was more in regards to the Storm wheels which were designed for the CC brakes. I appreciate the feedback though!
I will let you know how it turns out on my car. I have the maelstrom wheels which were designed for the CC brakes as well, so I am guessing they are same size and offset as the storm wheels. I am going to do some measurements next week and put in an order for my spacers. I'll let you know how it works out. The fronts are the same so you should be fine with the 17mm, the rears I actually believe can take wider spacers.
I will let you know how it turns out on my car. I have the maelstrom wheels which were designed for the CC brakes as well, so I am guessing they are same size and offset as the storm wheels. I am going to do some measurements next week and put in an order for my spacers. I'll let you know how it works out. The fronts are the same so you should be fine with the 17mm, the rears I actually believe can take wider spacers.
There is no difference between the R and SVR rear fenders and hubs, so the rear clearances are the same. However, (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) the SVR wears 305 rear shoes. Even 15mm spacers will be too much if you plan on lowering the car.
Has anyone ever gone more than 17mm in the rear? Looks like there is more room, but I don't want the tire to stick out past the top of the quarter panel.