Group Buy: (4) 17mm hubcentric adapters/spacers
#81
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..and I have heard from Lenny that they will be anodised Black! Sweet!
Can someone remind me of the lug nut torque for the spacers, AND the torque for the OEM lug nuts please?
Does anyone still use a light smear of Copperslip on the threads these days or has that gone out of fashion now?
Can someone remind me of the lug nut torque for the spacers, AND the torque for the OEM lug nuts please?
Does anyone still use a light smear of Copperslip on the threads these days or has that gone out of fashion now?
Please note that "dry" means do not put any type of lube or anti-seize compound on the threads. Any lubrication will dramatically increase the amount of torque necessary to get the lugs to a proper spec, and 92 ft lbs. will no longer be the proper spec.
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Tel (06-29-2016)
#84
#85
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Nice...
Never knew about the availability of the black anodization from Motorsport until now. Sorry for the confusion because the pictures I posted were in silver.
Just confirmed the spacers will indeed be anodized with a flat black finish
In my opinion, I'd clearly say the adapter color should be flat black and definitely match the hub and not stand out like a non oem add-on.
If anyone prefers their set to remain in the natural aluminum finish, please let Lenny know ASAP and he will not anodize your set.
Never knew about the availability of the black anodization from Motorsport until now. Sorry for the confusion because the pictures I posted were in silver.
Just confirmed the spacers will indeed be anodized with a flat black finish
In my opinion, I'd clearly say the adapter color should be flat black and definitely match the hub and not stand out like a non oem add-on.
If anyone prefers their set to remain in the natural aluminum finish, please let Lenny know ASAP and he will not anodize your set.
Last edited by polarisnavyxj; 06-29-2016 at 01:09 PM.
#86
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92 ft/lbs. is the F-Type DRY torque spec.
Please note that "dry" means do not put any type of lube or anti-seize compound on the threads. Any lubrication will dramatically increase the amount of torque necessary to get the lugs to a proper spec, and 92 ft lbs. will no longer be the proper spec.
Please note that "dry" means do not put any type of lube or anti-seize compound on the threads. Any lubrication will dramatically increase the amount of torque necessary to get the lugs to a proper spec, and 92 ft lbs. will no longer be the proper spec.
Am I missing any reason we should ever need to remove these other than failure?
Last edited by polarisnavyxj; 06-29-2016 at 01:33 PM.
#87
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That's a good point, can we use the permanent loctite for extra safety for the adapters if we plan them as a permanent add-on? I see no need to ever remove them other than if we were to get some custom wheels that then we could toy with the offsets.
Am I missing any reason we should ever need to remove these other than failure?
Am I missing any reason we should ever need to remove these other than failure?
#88
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
..and I have heard from Lenny that they will be anodised Black! Sweet!
Can someone remind me of the lug nut torque for the spacers, AND the torque for the OEM lug nuts please?
Does anyone still use a light smear of Copperslip on the threads these days or has that gone out of fashion now?
Can someone remind me of the lug nut torque for the spacers, AND the torque for the OEM lug nuts please?
Does anyone still use a light smear of Copperslip on the threads these days or has that gone out of fashion now?
Last edited by Unhingd; 06-29-2016 at 02:53 PM.
#89
#90
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That's a good point, can we use the permanent loctite for extra safety for the adapters if we plan them as a permanent add-on? I see no need to ever remove them other than if we were to get some custom wheels that then we could toy with the offsets.
Am I missing any reason we should ever need to remove these other than failure?
Am I missing any reason we should ever need to remove these other than failure?
#91
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OK, I'm not a mechanic but are you saying both a brake job and a rotor replacement you would need to remove adapter? Rotors I can see, but pads?
There are at least two versions of Loctite, permanent and temporary. You're referring to a copper grease for easy threading. Our purposes are diametrically opposed. I'll use what you suggest.
There are at least two versions of Loctite, permanent and temporary. You're referring to a copper grease for easy threading. Our purposes are diametrically opposed. I'll use what you suggest.
#93
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OK, I'm not a mechanic but are you saying both a brake job and a rotor replacement you would need to remove adapter? Rotors I can see, but pads?
There are at least two versions of Loctite, permanent and temporary. You're referring to a copper grease for easy threading. Our purposes are diametrically opposed. I'll use what you suggest.
There are at least two versions of Loctite, permanent and temporary. You're referring to a copper grease for easy threading. Our purposes are diametrically opposed. I'll use what you suggest.
#94
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The pads can be replaced without removing anything but the wheel. However, the steel on those rotors is soft enough these days that they need to be replaced whenever the pads are replaced. BMW rotors (including the MINIs) all need replacement with the pads, and those rotors are from the same vendor as the F-Type's.
This I didn't F know!
New rotor overtime you need pads...when did the car makers drop this F bombshell on us? How did I F miss this?
#95
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Serious as a heart attack. For my MINI, since the beginning (2002). Other Bimmers earlier than that. Weight saving issue. They don't put enough meat on new rotors anymore to make it possible to turn them.
#98
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Rotors ere covered under warranty or is this considered driver fault?
#99
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Generally, that is correct, but no longer true on German cars.
#100