Group Buy: (4) 17mm hubcentric adapters/spacers
#121
#123
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And it's 92 ft-lb, by the way. lol
#124
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Mbourne, I didn't mean to be involved with this convo, never that, I meant when I get them installed should I need to give them special instructions they may not know....lol. I don't trust those methheads at Big-O anyways.
#125
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Yes, the methheads at Big O will need careful instructions, like: use a real torque wrench rather than an impact wrench. Better yet, go to a performance wheel/tire shop rather than a corner franchise. (eg.California Wheels in San Jose, or East Bayz in Hayward).
#126
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A wheel shop should check the torque specs for each model they change tires and wheels on. However, in reality they suffer from laziness and complacency just like the rest of the world. They usually just put an impact-wrench on the lugs and hammer away, often without checking the spec. Sure, they're usually tight, but they could be way too tight, which isn't good either.
Sometimes it's the opposite problem, which happened w/ my F-Type. I found a lug nut in my driveway after having a tire fixed, and sure enough, it was from the right-front wheel. Every single lug on that wheel could almost be hand-loosened with just the socket on it (no wrench)!!!! Oops, they forgot something, and that could have been deadly.
Having owned more than 50 cars over the last 40 years, I can't tell you the number of times, I've found wheels massively over-torqued after a visit to a tire shop. I had one car where 3 out of 5 lugs were completely seized on one wheel and had to be drilled out.
I'm now in the habit of asking the shop not to use an impact-wrench, to hand-tighten w/ a calibrated torque wrench, and I give them the torque spec. In addition, for the last 20 years after a visit to a wheel shop, one of the first things I do when I get home is back off each lug, one at a time, and re-torque to the appropriate spec.
#127
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Yes, if you're smart, you'll be involved.
A wheel shop should check the torque specs for each model they change tires and wheels on. However, in reality they suffer from laziness and complacency just like the rest of the world. They usually just put an impact-wrench on the lugs and hammer away, often without checking the spec. Sure, they're usually tight, but they could be way too tight, which isn't good either.
Sometimes it's the opposite problem, which happened w/ my F-Type. I found a lug nut in my driveway after having a tire fixed, and sure enough, it was from the right-front wheel. Every single lug on that wheel could almost be hand-loosened with just the socket on it (no wrench)!!!! Oops, they forgot something, and that could have been deadly.
Having owned more than 50 cars over the last 40 years, I can't tell you the number of times, I've found wheels massively over-torqued after a visit to a tire shop. I had one car where 3 out of 5 lugs were completely seized on one wheel and had to be drilled out.
I'm now in the habit of asking the shop not to use an impact-wrench, to hand-tighten w/ a calibrated torque wrench, and I give them the torque spec. In addition, for the last 20 years after a visit to a wheel shop, one of the first things I do when I get home is back off each lug, one at a time, and re-torque to the appropriate spec.
A wheel shop should check the torque specs for each model they change tires and wheels on. However, in reality they suffer from laziness and complacency just like the rest of the world. They usually just put an impact-wrench on the lugs and hammer away, often without checking the spec. Sure, they're usually tight, but they could be way too tight, which isn't good either.
Sometimes it's the opposite problem, which happened w/ my F-Type. I found a lug nut in my driveway after having a tire fixed, and sure enough, it was from the right-front wheel. Every single lug on that wheel could almost be hand-loosened with just the socket on it (no wrench)!!!! Oops, they forgot something, and that could have been deadly.
Having owned more than 50 cars over the last 40 years, I can't tell you the number of times, I've found wheels massively over-torqued after a visit to a tire shop. I had one car where 3 out of 5 lugs were completely seized on one wheel and had to be drilled out.
I'm now in the habit of asking the shop not to use an impact-wrench, to hand-tighten w/ a calibrated torque wrench, and I give them the torque spec. In addition, for the last 20 years after a visit to a wheel shop, one of the first things I do when I get home is back off each lug, one at a time, and re-torque to the appropriate spec.
I'd be happy to tell them at what torque I'm after.
Last edited by polarisnavyxj; 07-10-2016 at 01:14 PM.
#128
#130
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You know I like crisp answers. When th euro standard metric mumbo jumbo starts > I'll just ask again to be clear.
Last edited by polarisnavyxj; 07-11-2016 at 10:19 AM.
#132
#134
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Just ordered a set - thanks a lot IronMike. Told Lenny I was in no rush to receive them.
Great guy - if I am ever in Reno I'd love to see their shop. They are in the middle of the production run on these right now.
Note on Invoice: NICE >> Your parts are backed by a Lifetime Warranty, and we build each order specifically for you and your vehicle. Your invoice number is engraved on each part, and we keep very accurate details of every order. So, if you break or cross thread a stud 1 year, 5 years, 10 years from now, we know exactly how to fix or replace it, FREE OF CHARGE!
Great guy - if I am ever in Reno I'd love to see their shop. They are in the middle of the production run on these right now.
Note on Invoice: NICE >> Your parts are backed by a Lifetime Warranty, and we build each order specifically for you and your vehicle. Your invoice number is engraved on each part, and we keep very accurate details of every order. So, if you break or cross thread a stud 1 year, 5 years, 10 years from now, we know exactly how to fix or replace it, FREE OF CHARGE!
Last edited by Burt Gummer; 07-11-2016 at 08:48 PM.
#135
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Just GOTP with Lenny.
He said the adapters will be finished by tomorrow. They then need to be anodized black.
Shipping should begin on Thursday and was told that all should get out on that day other than the people that ordered last minute.
If you have silver wheels and/or would prefer to have your adapters in the natural aluminum finish, let Lenny know and you'll be able to get yours shipped tomorrow avoiding the next step to anodize black.
It's my understanding that he will mill the adapters to use our OEM lugs, If you have aftermarket wheels that use a different seat, be sure to dig up your OEM lugs or buy a set on Amazon - 12x1.5mm conicals.
Thanks to Foosh's input, the correct torque on both wheel>adapter and adapter>hub is 92 fpt. Not clear about whether we should be using any thread lock products, seems to be a little debate in this area so do what you feel is right for you in terms of how permanent you wish your adapter to be. Don't forget the adapter will need to be removed if you ever need to get to your rotor. A permanent thread lock product should not be used!
Happy motoring, thanks for participating, and look forward to the posing of your before and after pics!
He said the adapters will be finished by tomorrow. They then need to be anodized black.
Shipping should begin on Thursday and was told that all should get out on that day other than the people that ordered last minute.
If you have silver wheels and/or would prefer to have your adapters in the natural aluminum finish, let Lenny know and you'll be able to get yours shipped tomorrow avoiding the next step to anodize black.
It's my understanding that he will mill the adapters to use our OEM lugs, If you have aftermarket wheels that use a different seat, be sure to dig up your OEM lugs or buy a set on Amazon - 12x1.5mm conicals.
Thanks to Foosh's input, the correct torque on both wheel>adapter and adapter>hub is 92 fpt. Not clear about whether we should be using any thread lock products, seems to be a little debate in this area so do what you feel is right for you in terms of how permanent you wish your adapter to be. Don't forget the adapter will need to be removed if you ever need to get to your rotor. A permanent thread lock product should not be used!
Happy motoring, thanks for participating, and look forward to the posing of your before and after pics!
Last edited by polarisnavyxj; 07-12-2016 at 05:32 PM.
#137