Updated wheel/spacer chart (maybe eventually a sticky):

Wheel 15mm (wheel stud trimming needed)/17mm (wheel stud trimming needed)
Gyrodyne - Yes/Yes
Cyclone
Storm
Blade - No/No
Tornado
Rotor
Orbit
Vela
Centrifuge


Thanks Oz/unhingd

 

If this group buy ends up going the route of 15mm spacers and someone desperately wants 17mm ones, i have a set i'll realistically probably never use.

 

I would be in for a set of 15mm (preferred), or 17mm.
I would prefer the 15mm as I have fought tire/fender interference for years on my SRT8. I actually own a fender roller that bends the 90° fender lip upwards to add clearance. The real problem I ran into with the SRT8 was going over a curb/bump/driveway ramp while my (oversized) wheels were cranked... the tire would grab the fender lip and pull it out. This could be bent back into place with care, but the paint could be cracked from the initial "hit". A heat gun is used to soften the paint while using the roller.
I was confused as to why the studs would have to be trimmed until I read the explanation that these spacers bolt to the stock studs, and include their own studs to mount the wheels.
As such, you may need to grind the end of the stock wheel studs a bit if they extend past the face of the new spacer. Spacers I have used in the past (to clear brake calipers) were very thin and were simply sandwiched between the wheel and the hub.

 

Tork - Are you ok with me adding you to the list as below? Do you prefer them to be black anodized black or steel/silver? Just to clarify your last comment in the above post...the stock wheel stud CAN extend past the face of the new spacer to some varying extent based upon the depth of the well on the inside of the wheel. I know that my wheels have about a 15-18mm well for the stock stud to bury itself into without hitting. the wheel. Other wheels are different and you may or may not be OK with 15mm depending on your wheel. There is list in this thread that I was trying to get filled out so people know if they need to shave for 15mm vs 17mm.

1. watson6505 (15, 17) Black
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17 ONLY) Black
4.Donzi38ZXXX (15, 17)
5.Chester///M (15 ONLY)
6. Tork Monster (15, 17)
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12

 

Can anyone tell me what it takes to grind/shave a stud down 3mm?

there are 20 of them and they are hardened steel so it does not seem all that easy.and quite time consuming! 20 studs.

I would be interested in hearing from someone that has done this themselves and what equipment is needed or had someone do it and how much it cost. i assume a grinder (type) and a special grinding wheel (type) would do it. Thanks for input of job description.

 

Yes; please add me to the list.
I would be good with either silver, clear, or black anodizing (assuming the spacer itself is aluminum). If the part is steel (which would be better to prevent galvanic corrosion with the studs), I would rather they be galvanized in lieu of powder coating. Powder coating is great, but can suffer from variations in thickness- not the best for wheel spacers, but not really a big concern.
In short- I am okay with whatever the group decides on finish.
Regarding the studs extending beyond the face- it's okay if I need to grind the studs down if necessary. Not something I WANT to do, and will make a mess, but shouldn't take too long.

Thanks!

 

Nice to see you still 'modding' Tork Monster. If you are going with the standard OEM tire size you would be fine with 17mms. No rubbing on fenders ever.

If you ever plan on lowering the car, 15mms. Grinding the studs is child's play. Not that messy. A LOW race-type jack, jack stands w/ covers/puck. 92ft lb of torque.

I am sure you have a grinder but if not, let me know, would be happy to hook you up.

 

Thanks Burt!
I do plan on staying with the standard tire setup for now. I may change rims, but will stick with the same diameter, offset and width.
Don't really plan on lowering it either. I have lowered every car I've owned, but for now at least...
Thank you for the offer, but I do have a couple of grinders (tool poor)

 

Looks much more sporty with the spacers. You will enjoy.

 

Can anyone tell me what it takes to grind/shave a stud down 3mm? needed for a 15mm spacer?

there are 20 of them and they are hardened steel so it does not seem all that easy.and quite time consuming! 20 studs.

I would be interested in hearing from someone that has done this themselves and what equipment is needed or had someone do it and how much it cost. i assume a grinder (type) and a special grinding wheel (type) would do it. Thanks for input of job description.

it seems most want 15mm and i don't want to hold up the ordering process for everyone, and i do not want to have any rubbing or fender rip off either!!

So in the realm of working with everyone i am willing to go 15mm black anodised if that helps, 2mm is really not much when you look at tires and fenders.

but i would also like some sort of definitive answer for above questions about grinding/shaving existing studs.
I assume the studs that need grinding/shaving are the existing studs on wheel hub, is that correct? Thanks
I'm not a mechanic and don't work for discount tire (god bless Bruce Halle may he RIP).

so i need someone to give me faith and reassurance that i can accomplish this task. i am reasonably handy and have dewalt grinder and can by grinding wheel at Home Depot. I just need to be able to picture the end job in my pee brain so i feel comfortable in doing this. Thanks for help and understanding for my anxiety.
Don't need to F - up my beautiful car.
I was able to accomplish many mods with my 2001 XKR.

Thanks, Mitchell

 

Piece of cake and I am no super-mechanic.

If the tires are off the car I could easily have it done in 20 minutes. Grind each stud's negative indentation to flat, no more, no less. Makes it super easy to 'measure.'

Don't try a file or worse 'cutting' them flat.

Something like this a must - refurbs on Ebay for $60 or so: Dewalt DC411 18v Cordless Cut-Off Grinder

There is room to get the wheel flat against the stud. You are not cutting, you are grinding from the side of the blade. I removed the protective wheel hood on the Dewalt grinder, it got in the way a little.

Sparks do fly, so of course be safe and wear gloves and googles. Each stud, less than a minute. I really enjoyed doing it, fun little project.

You shouldn't do any project that you don't feel comfortable with at all. In that case, any decent shop should put your car on a lift, pull the wheels, grind the studs as above, torque the spacers on at 92ft lbs by hand, reinstall the wheels, hand install the wheels also at 92ft lbs, all for their one hour rate.

Return to the shop after 100-200 miles of driving and have them check that the spacer bolts are still at 92ft lbs.. I checked all of mine and there were none loose. This step is optional.
Or anytime you have a reason to have the wheels off check the 92ft lbs on all the spacer bolts down the road.

People on here have stated that shops have done them for $50 but that is a little low. If a shop's rate is $80/hr and you tip the guy $20 for letting you hen over what he is doing (every tech loves that) then $100 and you're happy.

I did mine myself because I had the car on stands during wheel powdercoating. If that wasn't happening anyway I may have gone the shop route but now glad I did it myself.

 

^ +1. With a real cut-off grinder it's a 30 minute job. With a dremel tool, it's all day. Please don't ask me how I know.

 

Burt- Your car is gorgeous!

 

is lowered ?

 

Thanks TM; no indietor - that is factory height. I would have it lowered in a heartbeat, but nasty driveway at home forbids it.

With black wheels the gap is not as noticeable though.

 

can i ask some pic from side and from front 3/4 i want see how look with spacers but no lowered thx burt

 

Would love to put a set of these on, but as the car is brand new, i think if i had any issues and it went back to the dealer and they relized it had grinded studs, well that would be the warrenty screwed.

 

I couldn't see how grinding the stubs can equate to any warranty denial issue.

Cosmetic, inconsequential work. A long way from threads. I guess if someone was a absolute idiot and cut off giant chucks at angles into the threads.

Doing it properly there are absolutely no negatives to your new car.

 

I would agree with Burt-
Grinding 3mm off the length would not even be noticeable. 3mm/(25.4mm/in)= 0.118" less than 1/8"
If you are really worried, just remove the adapters before you take the car in for service.

 

I'll sign up too. Might not put them on right away, but will get in on the GB if gels sufficiently to go through.

1. watson6505 (15, 17) Black
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17 ONLY) Black
4. Donzi38ZXXX (15, 17)
5. Chester///M (15 ONLY)
6. Tork Monster (15, 17)
7. lizzardo (15,17)
8.
9.
10.
11.
12