That's Harbor Freight for you ;^)

If you need something for one project only, it's worth checking there. A local equipment rental shop might have something too. If I end up grinding my studs that's probably where I'll go.

 

Many thanks to Unhinged for this sketch.
I thought it might be helpful to add to this with a few suggestions for the DIY work:

Use gloves and safety glasses during all grinding work!

1)- There are many different grinding wheels & cut-off blades available for 4" & 4.5" grinders (larger grinders could work, but are too bulky to finesse on this more delicate task.
A thick (1/4"+) grinding disc works well if you are going to grind the ends of the studs down to the right length (recommended for <1/8" removal). These thicker discs are made for grinding on the face (or the edge) of the discs, as Unhinged' sketch shows.

Thicker (~1/4") grinding disc

If you are cutting more than 1/8" off the stud length, a metal cut-off disc may work better. These cut-off discs cut very quickly, but are thin and CANNOT be used to grind on the sides of the disc. I have included photos of the two types of discs. The labels on the discs show how they can be used. These Diablo cut-off discs (below) cut through steel like butter, but can cut right through your gloves and fingers as well (ask me how I know...)


Thin (<1/16") cut-off disc

2)- When cutting studs to length, a great way to set the cut-length and protect the stud, is to use two nuts on the stud (as previously mentioned by Watson6505). The top nut helps you grind a perfect square edge at the right position, and prevents you from accidentally cutting into the threads if you "ooops":



3)- Once the stud is cut/ground to the target length, the end of the stud will be a rough & sharp-edged. These edges can be chamfered with a file, or even with the grinder if you are careful. I typically turn the nuts further down on the stud to prevent damage, and use the face of a grinder to cut the corners at an angle. Regardless, cleaning the ends up with a fine-tooth file will give the best result.

4)- You may want to paint the newly-cut ends black to prevent rusting. Best to just dab some black paint on the end, instead of using a spray can (to avoid getting overspray on the discs or the car).

Note: Do not quench the cut studs with water to quickly cool them down after grinding. This is hardened steel and water quenching can embrittle the material.

.....................Please comment on any suggested refinements or corrections to the above. I will edit as needed.

 

great add on help tork.

Just to be completely clear:
Dewalt Disc - For grinding, more of a sanding approach is in unhingd's Picasso like sketch
Diablo Disc - For cutting, more of a hack-saw approach

In both cases you are using the edge/side/perimeter of the discs?

 

How much to ship a set to Ireland, might go for 15mm

 

TW - you are yards away (lol) from the threads when you are grinding. Literally 1/2" if I remember correctly.

I am a clumsy sort and I was never worried at all about accidentally hitting threads. Seriously, someone would have to go out of their way to do that on our cars.

As for rust, everything around the area is exposed steel like the rotors etc. My bolt ends were still shiny three months post grinding.

I have a lot of respect for people that are cautious and **** (lol!) but really, this bolt grinding thing is way overblown. It is super easy, fun, and not a big deal at all.

PS - the 4" wheel on mine is DW8424 Type 27 and it worked great.

 

Email Motorsport.

 

Don't forget safety glasses!

 

I honestly don't know the shipping charges to Ireland and you can certainly email (motorsportjr@gmail.com) or give Lenny Stahl a call at:

Office 775 351 1000
Cell 775 530 4845

In the prior group buys he has shipped all over the world for FType owners. While it is certainly more than the $15 to ship in the US, others have done it so maybe its not too much to prevent people from moving forward.

 

The thicker disc can be used to grind on the edges of the disc, or the face of the disc.
You could use this thick disc to cut-off as well, but it would take forever and add a lot of mess and unnecessary heat to the studs.
The thinner "cut-off" disc can only be used to cut through steel, using the edge of the disc, as depicted on the label.

 

shipping to Ireland works out at $100, was looking at other sites and seems I can buy the H&R 15mm spacers at around same price with shipping to me, works out better option as im overseas around $240 , but i would have to give another $100 to ship
Thickness per spacer: 15mm
PCD: 5x108
Centerbore: 63.3mm

motorsport-tech same size but Centerbore is 63.4mm, does the .3 to .4 make a difference, seems other members have fitted them with no issues.

Burt you have Gyrodenes with 17mm with grinding done, with 15mm would i be going into a bit of the thread do you think to fit.




https://www.tunershop.co.uk/h-r-****...xf-xk-xkr.html

 

The stud at the end is so undersized, that there is little chance that you'll have an issue, particularly if you dress the edge with a file. Besides, using a lug nut won't work since it has a closed end. You'd have to go find a standard nut that fits.

It's a graphical representation.

 

powerhouse - the group buy is $195 plus shipping, so you would be $295 with shipping, not sure if you mentioned the group buy when you called Lenny.

unhinged - I was thinking using the lugs that come with the spacers as my guide, but I was not clear on that in my post.

 

Sorry i miscaculated there, yes it would be $295 from lenny, went on the uk website again and it works out at £200 or $274 shipped to me. Wasnt talking to lenny but went on the website and states $100 shipping. Think 15mm is the way to go.

 

"Burt you have Gyrodenes with 17mm with grinding done, with 15mm would i be going into a bit of the thread do you think to fit."

No not at all. Look at your pic. You are FAR FROM the threads.

To get my 17mms to clear, grinding off the indentation and the 'M' to flat was more than enough and I'd bet that much would do it for 15mms also.

With 17mms they BARELY touch. I only used the grind off to flat method because I didn't want to grind one bolt more than another.

Of course you grind the OEM bolts BEFORE you install the spacer.

 

yea, if its cheaper to go that way, by all means, go that way.

 

Guys we are almost at the finish line, lets get 3-4 more and preferably people that are good with 15mm. It sounds like the stud trimming/cutting is pretty east with the right tool and there are fewer concerns about lowering and fender catching with the 15mm

1. watson6505 (15, 17) Black
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17 ONLY) Black
4. Donzi38ZXXX (15, 17)
5. Chester///M (15 ONLY) Black
6. Tork Monster (15, 17)
7. lizzardo (15,17)
8.
9.
10.
11.
12

 

Duh, of course! I’ll catch on eventually.

 

Guys lets wrap this up. if there is anyone out there thats 'considering' spacers but not ready to install them yet this is your chance to get them at a group buy price. There may not be the interest for another group buy for a while based upon the fact that we are only up to 7 in this one.

1. watson6505 (15, 17) Black
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17 ONLY) Black
4. Donzi38ZXXX (15, 17)
5. Chester///M (15 ONLY) Black
6. Tork Monster (15, 17)
7. lizzardo (15,17)
8.
9.
10.
11.
12

 

Anyone on the fence should just do it. You won't have a problem re-selling them here at your purchase price if you decide against installing later.

I bought mine three months before I even had my F-type .

 

Has anyone checked to see if these spacers will fit on other Jag models?
I would guess there would be consistency between hub-centric diameters and bolt circles among a few current Jags.

From a wheel sales site I get:
Bolt Circle = 5 x 108
Hub Center = 63.4mm

From the same site (https://www.wheel-size.com) I see that the Jag XE, XJ, XK, and the F-Pace all have the same BC & hub bore. Maybe we post on those specific pages for other potential buyers?