H and R Springs for F Type R
#21
#22
#23
They are one of the easier ones, out of all the springs we sell. Everything is pretty accessible. Maybe an hour a corner at the max. Less if they are good.
__________________
Stuart Dickinson
Managing Director
VelocityAP Industries Ltd.
O: (1)250-485-5126
E: Stuart@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
Stuart Dickinson
Managing Director
VelocityAP Industries Ltd.
O: (1)250-485-5126
E: Stuart@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
#24
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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The rears are fairly straightforward with the only fiddly bit being getting access to the top strut bolts - you have to remove or at least loosen right off the side carpet panels in the hatch (I'm talking coupe, not so sure about the 'vert) and remove the two large pieces of foam padding which sit under these panels and on top of the strut bolts. You will save yourself a fair bit of labour cost if you do this before taking the car in, but one word of warning - if you don't completely remove the panels (which takes a lot of time) and just loosen them off like I did, it's damn near impossible to get the RHS foam padding piece out without breaking it in half, I broke mine. But it was no big deal really, I just put the two broken halves back in and no-one can tell.
The fronts are a bit more complicated, the strut top bolts are a cinch to get at (out in the open in the engine bay) but disconnecting the bottom link and manoeuvring the strut assembly out is a PITA as some of the suspension links need to be unbolted and/or removed first.
I started on the fronts myself but gave up after about an hour, it was just too difficult for me using just jack stands and basic tools, so I ended up taking the car to a professional suspension shop to get it done, it took him about four hours.
The car will need a wheel alignment afterwards.
The fronts are a bit more complicated, the strut top bolts are a cinch to get at (out in the open in the engine bay) but disconnecting the bottom link and manoeuvring the strut assembly out is a PITA as some of the suspension links need to be unbolted and/or removed first.
I started on the fronts myself but gave up after about an hour, it was just too difficult for me using just jack stands and basic tools, so I ended up taking the car to a professional suspension shop to get it done, it took him about four hours.
The car will need a wheel alignment afterwards.
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abhishriv (04-13-2018)
#25
The following users liked this post:
abhishriv (04-13-2018)
#26
The rears are fairly straightforward with the only fiddly bit being getting access to the top strut bolts - you have to remove or at least loosen right off the side carpet panels in the hatch (I'm talking coupe, not so sure about the 'vert) and remove the two large pieces of foam padding which sit under these panels and on top of the strut bolts. You will save yourself a fair bit of labour cost if you do this before taking the car in, but one word of warning - if you don't completely remove the panels (which takes a lot of time) and just loosen them off like I did, it's damn near impossible to get the RHS foam padding piece out without breaking it in half, I broke mine. But it was no big deal really, I just put the two broken halves back in and no-one can tell.
The fronts are a bit more complicated, the strut top bolts are a cinch to get at (out in the open in the engine bay) but disconnecting the bottom link and manoeuvring the strut assembly out is a PITA as some of the suspension links need to be unbolted and/or removed first.
I started on the fronts myself but gave up after about an hour, it was just too difficult for me using just jack stands and basic tools, so I ended up taking the car to a professional suspension shop to get it done, it took him about four hours.
The car will need a wheel alignment afterwards.
The fronts are a bit more complicated, the strut top bolts are a cinch to get at (out in the open in the engine bay) but disconnecting the bottom link and manoeuvring the strut assembly out is a PITA as some of the suspension links need to be unbolted and/or removed first.
I started on the fronts myself but gave up after about an hour, it was just too difficult for me using just jack stands and basic tools, so I ended up taking the car to a professional suspension shop to get it done, it took him about four hours.
The car will need a wheel alignment afterwards.
did you happen to take any pics of the process for removing the rear panels? i have a coupe as well.
#27
ok good to know! the shop I'm going to said approx. 4 hours as well and they have the alignment machine there as well. said they will do one immediately after install and another alignment a couple weeks after once the suspension has settled in.
#28
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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From memory the steps are:
- remove the two floor panels and the cubby box
- remove the trim panel that goes across the floor behind the cubby box, either two or four "Christmas tree" clips
- remove the Christmas tree clips which hold the bottoms of the side panels to the floor, two or three each side.
- you now have just enough room and play with the side panels to lift them up enough to grab the foam inserts and pull them out
- these foam inserts go back a fair way and they have holes in them that fit over the strut top bolts, so you have to lift them over the bolts before you can pull them out, easier said than done
- if you are really careful and really patient (rules me out on both counts!) you might just be able to get them out without damaging them.