Hey everyone,

I am a long-time gearhead but a newbie to F-Type. Picked up my used '16 F-Type today in As-IS condition. I had tested the car one week ago, it started and ran, but was giving a Low A battery warning. But this time, when I picked it up and towed it home, it was dead dead. So, I brought out my jump start cables and connected them to my other car, The lights came on, and the car started to beep and boop and produce the normal sounds, but I could not start the car. There was not enough juice. Used my lithium battery jumpstart box, and it couldn't start the car either. I even disconnected the old battery from the car and couldn't start it with my lithium battery jumpstart box.

I am really, really scratching my head about such a trivial problem. Are these cars so sensitive to bad batteries? Is the ECU programmed not to start the engine when a Jaguvar engine is not connected?

 

Hey!
Just to share my story in hopes of it helping you.

2 weeks ago my car was having the same issue, dead battery and jumping it with my truck would start it but only last a few minutes driving (had to tow it home). I even took my battery to O'Rileys and had them charge it overnight, but it didnt hold charge.
So I bought a new battery thinking that was it, but i also wanted to check the alternator just to be sure. You do this by plugging in the new battery and letting it run for a while, then disconnecting the positive end of the battery. If the car stays running your alternator is good, if the car shuts down right away its a bad alternator. (this is my ghetto way of checking, you can be safer with it and check it with a voltmeter or maybe auto zone does checks too?)

Anyways, my alternator ended up being bad too. New battery and alternator ended up fixing it everything. Job isn't too bad to replace both yourself, just be sure to loosen the correct belt.

Goodluck!

 

These cars are *famous* for being sensitive to battery voltage. Get a new battery and **charge it fully** with an external charger before even installing it in the car since many times new batteries on the shelf have lost energy.

 

And don't shut the trunk with the battery disconnected! Piece of old carpet across the latch does the trick. ;-)

 

Depending on your jumper cables (gauge/length), you may not be sending across enough current to start the car. With the battery connected, turn everything off and wait a few minutes with the donor car running above idle might help. On jump packs, some will not engage/work if the battery is totally flat. That's also true for "smart" jumper cables, but you obviously were getting some power across. Next, with the battery disconnected, try charging it on a regular charger.

With an "As Is" MY16, you may well have an original battery and be due for a new one. You can check the date code on the battery to confirm. I replaced mine preemptively a couple of years ago with an Interstate from Costco (at bit over $200) - mainly because it's a PIA if the battery in the trunk dies (inevitably away from home, with the car locked, and raining). My original F-Pace battery didn't make it through the warranty period, so it was replaced at JLR's expense.

As mentioned above, these cars are sensitive to having a good, well-charged battery. Pick up a CTEK to maintain the charge when you're not driving it regularly.

Enjoy your new toy!

 

I drive mine every 2-3 days and the battery was dead on day with no prior warning sign. Then installed a new battery and less than a year later-dead again. Now I bought what most or many of us have, Ctek charger. They are very sensitive and from what I have learned even if you don't lock the car it drains even more. I never locked my car in the garage but now lock it and if I don't drive it for a day, its hooked up to the charger. When mine wouldn't start I hooked a booster to the front posts under the hood and it gave me enough juice to pop the trunk.

 

UPDATE: I changed the battery and installed a new one, and everything runs perfectly! I never had a car requiring this amount of amp to start the engine. Thank you so much, guys, for all the help!


Before buying the new battery, I put in the almost-new battery from my LR3 with 4.4L V8 engine, and that battery couldn't turn F-Type's V6 engine!!!! LR3's battery provides 800 cold-cranking amps. The new battery that I bought, is a Duralast Platinium AGM battery with 900 cold cranking amp.

 

1. Don't try charging and starting the car from the terminals under the hood. There's just too much resistance in the cable back to the trunk. Those front terminals only serve for you to power the rear hatch so you can get at the battery.
2. I've used a battery under 800 cca to easily start the engine. There is a good possibility that you do not have a good ground connection for the battery. Corrosion at the cable connection to the body has been known to create issues for a lot of people. Follow the ground connection from the battery to the trunk floor and disconnect. Use a wire brush and sandpaper to clean the cable end as well as the metal around the connection stud before hooking up that connection again.

 

A few things:

First, get to why the battery was dead. I place the odds at 99 out of 100 that someone plugged something into the ODBII connector, didn't exit it right and this left the car in a maintenance mode, which drains the battery in roughly four days. If you turn off the car and the hazard triangle is still lit up 30 minutes later, there's the problem. The solution is to disconnect the negative lead and reconnect, which you have now done.

Next, jumper cables vary greatly in quality. When this happened to me, I was able to just with my burly cables, but not cheap ones.

 

It really sounds like you have some sort of abnormal parasitic drain on yours. I don't drive my car all the time and it starts up fine every time, even after a weeks long vacation. I have not used any sort of battery maintainer on mine and the only time I've had battery issues is when the dealer didn't exit out of an ODBII connection correctly. That killed my battery.

 

I think Vik is likely right. The electrical system is not fully shutting down. I purchased my first Jag a few months ago and had an issues with battery. I noticed the door lock switch lights and hazard warning triangle light were staying on all the time. I disconnected the negative connection on battery for a few hours. When reconnected the door lock switch lights and hazard warning triangle light both went out after approx. 5 minutes/10minutes after locking car, showing that the electrical system is now fully shutting down. Apparently this is due to a service technician not shutting the computer diagnostics down correctly before disconnecting from the OBD.