Help: MY2013 Roof won't close - mechanics suggest 14.500€ replacement
#1
Help: MY2013 Roof won't close - mechanics suggest 14.500€ replacement
Hi,
The roof on my MY2013 base F-type cabriolet is stuck and will not close.
After its winter hibernation an issue has emerged. It has been sitting in an open garage, and there was mold in the cabin when the cover was taken off in order to prepare it for spring.
The rag top won't close. It is an intermittent problem, which is all the more frustrating. When trying to close the roof, the flaps on the side go up, however, the top doesn't move. It has been in the shop for a week and a half, and they have no idea what the problem is. They are on the verge of suggesting replacing the top all together which they expect to cost around 14.500€.
Have anyone had similar experiences or know of any possible solution?
Thanks a lot for your input!
The roof on my MY2013 base F-type cabriolet is stuck and will not close.
After its winter hibernation an issue has emerged. It has been sitting in an open garage, and there was mold in the cabin when the cover was taken off in order to prepare it for spring.
The rag top won't close. It is an intermittent problem, which is all the more frustrating. When trying to close the roof, the flaps on the side go up, however, the top doesn't move. It has been in the shop for a week and a half, and they have no idea what the problem is. They are on the verge of suggesting replacing the top all together which they expect to cost around 14.500€.
Have anyone had similar experiences or know of any possible solution?
Thanks a lot for your input!
#2
I had a very similar problem. The quote below is from the technician's work order. Hope it helps.
"Using SSD read the DTC's found code B143c-12. Tested the electrical circuit for the motor, no short to battery found. Opened a TA: Technical Assistance 2371974, through the TA was instructed to provide measurements from both the folding top latch rear motor and the folding top slave module, in order to be able to have access to the slave module had to remove the convertible top. Once I provided the asked for information was asked to replace the folding top latch rear motor. Once replaced was still not working. Responded with results and was instructed to provide more results. Had to remove the top again for more test, once completed test was asked to renew the harness from the slave module to the top latch motor. Once harness was renewed top was working as it should."
"Using SSD read the DTC's found code B143c-12. Tested the electrical circuit for the motor, no short to battery found. Opened a TA: Technical Assistance 2371974, through the TA was instructed to provide measurements from both the folding top latch rear motor and the folding top slave module, in order to be able to have access to the slave module had to remove the convertible top. Once I provided the asked for information was asked to replace the folding top latch rear motor. Once replaced was still not working. Responded with results and was instructed to provide more results. Had to remove the top again for more test, once completed test was asked to renew the harness from the slave module to the top latch motor. Once harness was renewed top was working as it should."
#4
#5
I had a very similar problem. The quote below is from the technician's work order. Hope it helps.
"Using SSD read the DTC's found code B143c-12. Tested the electrical circuit for the motor, no short to battery found. Opened a TA: Technical Assistance 2371974, through the TA was instructed to provide measurements from both the folding top latch rear motor and the folding top slave module, in order to be able to have access to the slave module had to remove the convertible top. Once I provided the asked for information was asked to replace the folding top latch rear motor. Once replaced was still not working. Responded with results and was instructed to provide more results. Had to remove the top again for more test, once completed test was asked to renew the harness from the slave module to the top latch motor. Once harness was renewed top was working as it should."
"Using SSD read the DTC's found code B143c-12. Tested the electrical circuit for the motor, no short to battery found. Opened a TA: Technical Assistance 2371974, through the TA was instructed to provide measurements from both the folding top latch rear motor and the folding top slave module, in order to be able to have access to the slave module had to remove the convertible top. Once I provided the asked for information was asked to replace the folding top latch rear motor. Once replaced was still not working. Responded with results and was instructed to provide more results. Had to remove the top again for more test, once completed test was asked to renew the harness from the slave module to the top latch motor. Once harness was renewed top was working as it should."
An analogy to this on the Series III XJ sedans was the very common problen with the inoperative electric mirrors. And the common repair was to replace the expensive mirror switch. This did indeed fix the problem but not because the original switch was bad - it was because disconnecting the mirror switch and connecting a new one cleaned the connector! I repaired many inoperative mirror units by simply disconnecting, using some contact cleaner and reconnecting. In this case of a non-operating convertible top the damp storage over the winter provides the clue.
"Common things are common" and "Occam's razor" may apply. But don't forget the possibility of insufficient voltage from the battery -again, winter storage may have something to do with it.
#6
And my assessment of this is that the fault was likely to be in the connection of the slave module to the top latch motor. It is unlikely that the fault was in the cable, but very possible that there was a faulty connection. Removing the existing harness and replacing it repaired the connection by cleaning the connector interface.
An analogy to this on the Series III XJ sedans was the very common problen with the inoperative electric mirrors. And the common repair was to replace the expensive mirror switch. This did indeed fix the problem but not because the original switch was bad - it was because disconnecting the mirror switch and connecting a new one cleaned the connector! I repaired many inoperative mirror units by simply disconnecting, using some contact cleaner and reconnecting. In this case of a non-operating convertible top the damp storage over the winter provides the clue.
"Common things are common" and "Occam's razor" may apply. But don't forget the possibility of insufficient voltage from the battery -again, winter storage may have something to do with it.
An analogy to this on the Series III XJ sedans was the very common problen with the inoperative electric mirrors. And the common repair was to replace the expensive mirror switch. This did indeed fix the problem but not because the original switch was bad - it was because disconnecting the mirror switch and connecting a new one cleaned the connector! I repaired many inoperative mirror units by simply disconnecting, using some contact cleaner and reconnecting. In this case of a non-operating convertible top the damp storage over the winter provides the clue.
"Common things are common" and "Occam's razor" may apply. But don't forget the possibility of insufficient voltage from the battery -again, winter storage may have something to do with it.
#7
After 16 years, I have had a couple of serious electronic failures on my MINI (Nav system, instrument cluster, climate system, etc.) and the dealer keeps trying to replace components costing well over $1000. I have refused to let them do that without fully unplugging and reconnecting them. It has worked every time. This will be an issue with any car exposed humidity and should be considered an ordinary part of maintenance as the car gets older. Given the mold found in the OP's car, it has obviously been exposed to a lot of humidity. And as sov suggests, have them disconnect and reconnect every single connection on that roof mechanism. (cheaper than installing a new roof...ridiculous).
My experience with many Jaguars over decades is that the main components rarely fail; but the electrical connections are often the cause of a fault - this is now very rare in modern Jaguars - and this is why the "history" together with some critical thinking is crucial to solving the problem correctly and economically. Automobile mechanics/technicians are the physicians of the automotive world - the same use of a proper history, experience, curiosity and common sense allows the proper diagnosis - throwing new ($$$$$) parts at a problem may indeed solve the issue (see my comments regarding mirror controls in my previous post) but not necessarily because the parts replaced were defective. It is more likely, given the history, that the replacement involved disconnecting and reconnecting - which should have been the initial procedure!
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#8
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#9
UPDATE:
Sorry for the lack of response on my part. The mechanics couldn't still locate the problem, however it is intermittent, and I have chosen to take the car back hoping that it was some electrical gremlin caused by battery voltage - even though it has been connected to a battery maintainer.
I haven't had the problem the last 3 days I've been using the car. If the problems return the next step will be to disassemble the top, and check all the connectors.
I'll update this thread if any new information comes up.
Once again thanks for all your inputs
- Lommi
Sorry for the lack of response on my part. The mechanics couldn't still locate the problem, however it is intermittent, and I have chosen to take the car back hoping that it was some electrical gremlin caused by battery voltage - even though it has been connected to a battery maintainer.
I haven't had the problem the last 3 days I've been using the car. If the problems return the next step will be to disassemble the top, and check all the connectors.
I'll update this thread if any new information comes up.
Once again thanks for all your inputs
- Lommi
#10
UPDATE:
Sorry for the lack of response on my part. The mechanics couldn't still locate the problem, however it is intermittent, and I have chosen to take the car back hoping that it was some electrical gremlin caused by battery voltage - even though it has been connected to a battery maintainer.
I haven't had the problem the last 3 days I've been using the car. If the problems return the next step will be to disassemble the top, and check all the connectors.
I'll update this thread if any new information comes up.
Once again thanks for all your inputs
- Lommi
Sorry for the lack of response on my part. The mechanics couldn't still locate the problem, however it is intermittent, and I have chosen to take the car back hoping that it was some electrical gremlin caused by battery voltage - even though it has been connected to a battery maintainer.
I haven't had the problem the last 3 days I've been using the car. If the problems return the next step will be to disassemble the top, and check all the connectors.
I'll update this thread if any new information comes up.
Once again thanks for all your inputs
- Lommi
Best of luck hope it is an easy fix.
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