Help, please: Error Codes on Newly Delivered 2015 F Type R
#1
Help, please: Error Codes on Newly Delivered 2015 F Type R
Hi. I could really use some advice. I bought a 2015 F Type R from Houston Audi dealer and it was delivered yesterday afternoon. Just driving 3 miles to get it emissions tested, the check engine light comes on. I went to the emissions center anyways to see what codes they'd pull up and the codes are:
- P0447: Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
- P0420: Catalyst Systems Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) (5)
- P0405: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit Low
- P0010: "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
- P2169 No Description Available.
My questions are:
1) Are any of these codes serious enough for me to stop drive now (ie: tow to a shop?)
2) I believe Jaguar (or US laws) requires emission warranties up to major emission control components up to 8 years or 80,000 miles. So, most of these will be covered? Local Jaguar dealer wants to do a diagnostic to confirm these codes and will charge $275 just for the diagnostic. If it's not covered under warranty, I have 2-3 local shops that have worked on F Types that I can contact instead.
3) Wouldn't these codes have been picked up on a pre purchase inspection with an OBD reader - even if someone unhooked the battery prior? I had a PPI done before I agreed to buy the car and the PPI showed no issues on codes.
Also, this is a 2015 R with 42,007 miles at delivery. I put about 30 miles so far.
Thank you so much!!! I'm a little panicked here. Can't register the car until these items are resolved.
Allan
- P0447: Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
- P0420: Catalyst Systems Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) (5)
- P0405: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit Low
- P0010: "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
- P2169 No Description Available.
My questions are:
1) Are any of these codes serious enough for me to stop drive now (ie: tow to a shop?)
2) I believe Jaguar (or US laws) requires emission warranties up to major emission control components up to 8 years or 80,000 miles. So, most of these will be covered? Local Jaguar dealer wants to do a diagnostic to confirm these codes and will charge $275 just for the diagnostic. If it's not covered under warranty, I have 2-3 local shops that have worked on F Types that I can contact instead.
3) Wouldn't these codes have been picked up on a pre purchase inspection with an OBD reader - even if someone unhooked the battery prior? I had a PPI done before I agreed to buy the car and the PPI showed no issues on codes.
Also, this is a 2015 R with 42,007 miles at delivery. I put about 30 miles so far.
Thank you so much!!! I'm a little panicked here. Can't register the car until these items are resolved.
Allan
#2
None of these make the car undriveable in the short term.
You are correct that there is an extended emission warranty, so the repairs are probably covered (assuming there's no disqualifying cause).
But, you should have the JLR dealer do the work if you want warranty coverage.
Clearing code could have masked an existing problem.
You should talk to the Audi dealer about the situation - either to get it fixed and/or at least to cover the diagnostics.
Polite insistence is the best approach. You don't know that they caused or covered up any problem.
You are correct that there is an extended emission warranty, so the repairs are probably covered (assuming there's no disqualifying cause).
But, you should have the JLR dealer do the work if you want warranty coverage.
Clearing code could have masked an existing problem.
You should talk to the Audi dealer about the situation - either to get it fixed and/or at least to cover the diagnostics.
Polite insistence is the best approach. You don't know that they caused or covered up any problem.
#3
Look 'em up on Google since it's the weekend as I type You may need to include Land Rover as well as Jaguar in your inquiry.
I think you need a more comprehensive scanner than what was used. See reference to 'SDD" (Jag's dealer software)
https://www.aboutautomobile.com/Tech...Exhaust-System
+++++++++
Contact the Audi dealer ASAP to see what repairs are warranted and how you should proceed.
I think you need a more comprehensive scanner than what was used. See reference to 'SDD" (Jag's dealer software)
https://www.aboutautomobile.com/Tech...Exhaust-System
+++++++++
Contact the Audi dealer ASAP to see what repairs are warranted and how you should proceed.
#4
#5
#6
Most cars will fail emissions testing if they're not fully up to operating temperature. You should always drive the vehicle for at least 20 minutes at speed prior to an emissions test. Now you may have more going on since the CEL came on as well. But it's certainly something to consider.
#7
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#8
#9
Thanks. I'm looking into this now. I've hand it on a battery tender since I got it and it frequently switching from charging to charged.
#10
Most cars will fail emissions testing if they're not fully up to operating temperature. You should always drive the vehicle for at least 20 minutes at speed prior to an emissions test. Now you may have more going on since the CEL came on as well. But it's certainly something to consider.
#11
More Issues
Well, local Jaguar dealer did an inspection and will replace the cat under the last year of the 7 year warranty. They, of course found a few more issues too and the prices they'd charge to fix.
- Rear brake pads, sensor rotors below spec = $1,550; [Not worried and can have this replaced elsewhere]
- Main batter failed test = $580 [Not worried. I can replace the battery myself once I get the car back]
- Rear differential pinion seal leak = $1,242 [I'm going to have a local independent shop replace the diff oil with Catrol BOT 720. I suppose they can address the pinion seal as they inspect it. Any idea on the extent to replace the seal?]
- Transmission lines seeping = $940 [Not sure what this one is or what repair is involved.]
- Power steering fluid leak coming from fitting = $250 [Will have local independent shop check]
- Timing covers leaking oil and vacuum pump has oil building up on the outside = $3,174 [This is the one that concerns me the most. Not sure how extensive the repair would be]
- Rear stabilizing busing torn = $675 [Will have local independent shop check]
- Gas cap needs replacement = $92 [Emission test center said the cap was venting]
Side note, I did have a third party do a pre-purchase inspection and none of these were listed on the report and supposedly all codes passed for " current, history, and erasement".
- Rear brake pads, sensor rotors below spec = $1,550; [Not worried and can have this replaced elsewhere]
- Main batter failed test = $580 [Not worried. I can replace the battery myself once I get the car back]
- Rear differential pinion seal leak = $1,242 [I'm going to have a local independent shop replace the diff oil with Catrol BOT 720. I suppose they can address the pinion seal as they inspect it. Any idea on the extent to replace the seal?]
- Transmission lines seeping = $940 [Not sure what this one is or what repair is involved.]
- Power steering fluid leak coming from fitting = $250 [Will have local independent shop check]
- Timing covers leaking oil and vacuum pump has oil building up on the outside = $3,174 [This is the one that concerns me the most. Not sure how extensive the repair would be]
- Rear stabilizing busing torn = $675 [Will have local independent shop check]
- Gas cap needs replacement = $92 [Emission test center said the cap was venting]
Side note, I did have a third party do a pre-purchase inspection and none of these were listed on the report and supposedly all codes passed for " current, history, and erasement".
#12
The pinion seal leak is a pretty involved job. Mine gave out under warranty so I didn't have to pay for it, but it's a lengthy process. They have to drop the exhaust and pull the entire differential out in order to change the seal. In some cases, the dealership is lazy and flat out replaces the entire unit rather than having to deal with the tricky task of properly seating the pinion seal. If they do the seal replacement, make sure to check back underneath the car periodically as there's a chance they didn't seat it perfectly and it will still leak. I would advise also taking the opportunity to check if the breather is clogged and clean it out while you're there.
#13
The pinion seal leak is a pretty involved job. Mine gave out under warranty so I didn't have to pay for it, but it's a lengthy process. They have to drop the exhaust and pull the entire differential out in order to change the seal. In some cases, the dealership is lazy and flat out replaces the entire unit rather than having to deal with the tricky task of properly seating the pinion seal. If they do the seal replacement, make sure to check back underneath the car periodically as there's a chance they didn't seat it perfectly and it will still leak. I would advise also taking the opportunity to check if the breather is clogged and clean it out while you're there.
#14
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Well, local Jaguar dealer did an inspection and will replace the cat under the last year of the 7 year warranty. They, of course found a few more issues too and the prices they'd charge to fix.
- Rear brake pads, sensor rotors below spec = $1,550; [Not worried and can have this replaced elsewhere]
- Main batter failed test = $580 [Not worried. I can replace the battery myself once I get the car back]
- Rear differential pinion seal leak = $1,242 [I'm going to have a local independent shop replace the diff oil with Catrol BOT 720. I suppose they can address the pinion seal as they inspect it. Any idea on the extent to replace the seal?]
- Transmission lines seeping = $940 [Not sure what this one is or what repair is involved.]
- Power steering fluid leak coming from fitting = $250 [Will have local independent shop check]
- Timing covers leaking oil and vacuum pump has oil building up on the outside = $3,174 [This is the one that concerns me the most. Not sure how extensive the repair would be]
- Rear stabilizing busing torn = $675 [Will have local independent shop check]
- Gas cap needs replacement = $92 [Emission test center said the cap was venting]
Side note, I did have a third party do a pre-purchase inspection and none of these were listed on the report and supposedly all codes passed for " current, history, and erasement".
- Rear brake pads, sensor rotors below spec = $1,550; [Not worried and can have this replaced elsewhere]
- Main batter failed test = $580 [Not worried. I can replace the battery myself once I get the car back]
- Rear differential pinion seal leak = $1,242 [I'm going to have a local independent shop replace the diff oil with Catrol BOT 720. I suppose they can address the pinion seal as they inspect it. Any idea on the extent to replace the seal?]
- Transmission lines seeping = $940 [Not sure what this one is or what repair is involved.]
- Power steering fluid leak coming from fitting = $250 [Will have local independent shop check]
- Timing covers leaking oil and vacuum pump has oil building up on the outside = $3,174 [This is the one that concerns me the most. Not sure how extensive the repair would be]
- Rear stabilizing busing torn = $675 [Will have local independent shop check]
- Gas cap needs replacement = $92 [Emission test center said the cap was venting]
Side note, I did have a third party do a pre-purchase inspection and none of these were listed on the report and supposedly all codes passed for " current, history, and erasement".
DC
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