2014 V8 S Firesand (the fastest color)
69F
750' MSL
MPS4 305/30, 245/35 r20​​​​​​
Front: 32.5 psi
Rear: 30.0 psi
22 lb wheels
Sport Mode Automatic, Dynamic Mode
Traction Control On
RaceChip GTS Black, Map 7
(Dyno'd: 540 whp, +42 peak, +70 max)
EuroToys 6% SC Pulley
(Dyno soon, maybe +30 max, probably +0 peak)
93 Octane E10

Tail wag all the way 0-60, but the MP4Ss are giving a lot more bite before breaking contact. The car is still modulating for traction. If there was a way to hook-up all the way, breaking 3.0 would be a given IMO.

This was the best of 5 runs. Worst was 3.88s with Traction Control long-pressed Off and tires smokin'. I think the burnout helped the rest. Others 3.13, 3.17, 3.60 (half Traction Control, lots of wheel spin).

Going to try E30 to see if times change.

 

 

Duplicate

 

Thanks. I have run some ethanol, but not timed. I did throw a code when I got distracted and topped it off with 5 gals of E85. 3 gallons works fine for the whole tank. Whats that, like 4 gallons total of straight E, so maybe its closer to E20.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the engine would actually be running rich, right? The ECU senses lean from too clean a burn and adds fuel then throws a code?

 

No, it's the fuel itself (C2H5OH) that's actually causing a lean burn condition that the ECU needs to adjust for. Too much ethanol, and the A/F falls outside of the programmed parameters and the fuel delivery requirements exceed the capacity of the injectors. I am certain VAP could build out the data tables for you, and you could possibly find higher capacity injectors if you really saw a benefit to running alcohol.

 

Thanks again. I don't need to run it, hell I don't need 5 of my cars. There is power left on the table in the 0-60 numbers. I'd VAP the car for more high band power, which might help, but I stll have two years JLR warranty.

​​​​​​To the point, I need more traction for 2's to be in play. I'm sure an AWD R or SVR could lay down a 2.9 with what I have now, but I'd hate to carry and power another transmission just for a jump from zero.

I might be stuck here barring straight line wheels and tires, but again I pref more overall capability.

 

According to my manual: "Do not use fuels containing more than 10% ethanol." and "Do not use E85 fuels with 85% ethanol content as serious engine and fuel system damage will occur." May have an impact on any warranty claims?

 

No biggie if you're just using the car 1/4 mile at a time.

 

Not E85. E20-ish. You can't buy Ethanol free gas here. Corn lobby. E85 fuel system warnings are for microbes. I use a Lucas anti-fungal even with E10 because I don't trust additive regulations as far as I can drink them. Government parrots whatevers cheapest for their lobbiest.

 

I don't want to haul sand in the trunk anymore than I want to stuff another transmission in there. Lol'd myself.

Ideas to shave a tenth without pulling performance from somewhere else?

I don't see running under 30 psi, I'll probably go back to around 33 anyway. The MP4Ss were worth 3/10ths plus they are better everywhere. The Nittos were a penalty.

I can't understand why Jag lists these cars at 4.2s. It 's dumb in todays numbers-driven world. I'm sure its a combination of P-Zeros, a TC full-off requirement, and a mediocre driver who is one and done. Maybe two. A stock V8 S on P-Zeros easily puts down 3.4-3.6 with a little tap on the brake to launch. At least good mag reviewers note 3.6 is easyy.

 

If you have already removed all (easily removable) excess weight from the car, then perhaps look at removing the passenger seat, or going on an extreme diet yourself!

 

Thats a great idea really. I'm 6.2 250. But 40 pounds is only worth .02 according to math. I'd need to lose 200. 😬

 

lighta by name but not by nature!

 

And F-Types are my most comfortable luxury cars!

 

Jim,

I have a bone stock V8S and while it is plenty of car my daily driving, I have been interested in anything that might make it even faster at the appropriate times without voiding what I have left of ext warranty.

Have you found any downside to the GTS Black Racechip (difficult to install, car less usable around town/jittery, loss of noise, poorer fuel economy instead of better fuel economy, etc)? Would be very interested to hear more about your experience; sounds like it might be worth the $800.

Also, what are you using int he picture to measure 0-60? I've heard of Vboxes but that doesn't look like one. I've used TorquePro with app but the results can be odd at times, not sure how accurate it is. Fastest I've done with it is 3.80s just messing around.

A tire swap next time I'm due and a plug and play Racechip is very appealing to be able to drive/experience/scream during that type of acceleration.

 

Great to see some 0-60 times for the RWD V-8's, we have had a fair amount of data from Gibbo and others with AWD models. Haven't tested my car at the track, but my butt dyno tells me the lighter wortec rotors (50lbs) and the lithium battery (55lbs) made my car a tad faster. Keep up the good work, and let us know what kind of 1/4 mile times you can get with your car.

 

The RaceChip has been great so far. I recommend it. No affiliation.

In theory, it's a 5 minute DYI install with no tools. You intercept two sensors with the supplied harness. In reality, the instructions are generic and with our car one sensor is hidden. I downloaded all kinds of engine diagrams trying to find it. After a day of searching I located it. To expose it, you have to remove three screws to push back the assembly on the top rear of the engine. Knowing what to do, it's a 15 min job that I was able to do with two long screwdrivers. If you decide to get one, let me know and I'll post a step by step. It'll save hours of head scratching.

Here's my dyno.

​​​​
The claims specific to the V8 S are very close to my results. Blue is Map 7, the highest performance map, red is Map 5, and green is stock with the harness plug in place. The harness plug replaces the RaceChip device with a dead plug for quick removal without removing the harness.

Sadly, the general claim of "up to 30% more torque" seems stupid, but maybe there are some diesels that benefit that much. But it is a quality product and has performed flawlessly for me. No bad behavior. It's been to the dealer and even had the ECU flashed by them with the dead plug in place with no flags or issues.

​I've added a 6% pulley a few days ago with no compatibility issues. Everything works like a champ.

 

It's an excellent little accelerometer/timer that measures lateral and longitudinal Gs, 0-60 and 1/4 mile. It reads sensibly, if not conservatively for all my cars.

 

Have you tried slapping on a pair of winter snow tires to gain more traction off the line? Just an idea, have not tried this myself.

https://www.1010tires.com/Tires/305-30R20/Winter