Yes...Absolutely. You will need a relatively low profile tool to get in there...

DC

 

When I did mine the air ratchet would only work after I got the screws out about 2/3 - 3/4 of the way because there was so much OEM thread locker on them.

 

If you lift the radiator fan and bungee cord to bonnet/hood, you’ll have enough to to fit an air 3/8 impact gun. So, more than enough room for an air ratchet but it better be a good strong one and your knuckles should be coated in steel before attempting with 1 hand..lol

 

Hahaha @Tuning@VelocityAP I had some bloody knuckles after installing that Crank Pulley!

 

Really struggling here with the removal of the crankshaft pulley Torx bolts. I have 5 out of the 6 removed and they were tough all the way out, as indicated in the procedure. Number 6 is much harder that the others and I am afraid of breaking it. Any advice on how to proceed? Is there anything I can do to complete this without breaking the bolt?
thanks
Steve

 

Retighten the others, perhaps not quite to the full torque spec. Make sure you are using a penetrant (Kroll is the best - not sure if made anymore). Using a punch of some sort - rap the problem Torx bolt axially (i.e. a quick hard snap as if you're pushing in the bolt hole) and see if that works.

By tightening the others, you eliminate any prying effect that the flange surface may have if it is tending to spring forward on the opposite side. By rapping on the bolt, sometimes such an impact is enough to break any surface friction bond in the thread form.

 

Sorry - I just realized you may not be able to get something in there to rap on it!

 

The OEM thread locker on the bolts on my car was really holding the bolts firm in my car. I had to use a 2ft piece of pipe on the ratchet to break them free initially. Once you get the bolts out make sure you chase the threads on the bolts and in the crank to remove the thread locker or you will have to struggle to get them back in.

BTW you might try a little heat on the bolts to melt the thread locker. If the breaker bar didn't work for me I would have used my industrial heat gun or a micro brazing torch to apply a little heat to the bolts.

 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The thread locker used by the factory is blue.

The bolt is out, but with some damage to the Torx head.

I tried chasing the threads on three of the bolts and holes to the point where I could hand-tighten the bolt. then, ensuring alignment of the two pulleys, locked them into place. Then tried ATF/Acetone as a releaser, but with no success. I then tried my wife’s micro-torch, which she uses to caramelize creme caramel, which fit quite well even with the very limited space. I ran the torch on the offending bolt for 5 minutes until the washer glowed red. It then came out with ease.

thanks for the suggestions everyone.

BTW, does anyone know if I can buy a replacement Torx bolt from the dealer? I hope they sell it separately from the pulley!

thanks
Steve

 

I may be wrong but something makes me think they come in packs of 10

 

See the diagram below. This should be the bolt you need (#3 in Diagram). Kind of pricey, but what's new...Fitment list (PDF) also attached.

DC

 

On the diagram that looks like the single central bolt

 

Thanks for the diagram. I spoke with my local dealer, and part number 3 is the only part they have on file. Unfortunately, this bolt mounts a flange (part #14 in the diagram) to the crankshaft, and the front pulleys are mounted to the flange. The bolts that I'm looking for secure the front pulleys to this flange, and there are 6 of them.

The bolt specs are:

M 10 x 1.5
T50 torx head
overall length with head: 38mm
length without head: 28mm
captive flat washer

I have attached a picture. I suspect that the 6 bolts are included with the front pulleys (part number 1 in the diagram). If anyone has a jaguar part number for just the torx bolts, that would be awesome.
Thanks
Steve

 

Not sure but I think #14 is the oil filter cap? And #9 is the complete oil filter/cartridge assembly on top of the motor?
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I did the VAP crank pulley and tune last weekend on my 2017 F-Type SVR. There are a couple of things I learned that might come in handy for some of you. First, there is no need to remove the bottom lip on the belly pan. Just leave those bolts alone. The front plastic belly pan comes off without taking that off and saves you a lot of time not having to remove the 12 or whatever bolts running thru that lip. Second, the bolts in my OEM pulley were slathered in red locktite and damn near impossible to get out. If I had to do it over again I would have loosened them with the belt still on the pulley holding it still. In order to get them out with the belt removed you definitely need a long 3/8th drive breaker bar with the 50 size Torx bit and a long 1/2" breaker bar with a 24mm socket to hold the crank. I actually bought a set of extra long flat steel breaker bars meant for removing pulleys that Craftsman makes and sells at Lowes (Both come in 1 package). Finally, to get the new belt on I had zero luck getting it on by trying to pry it onto the supercharger pulley last, even with the tensioner all the way compressed and held with zip ties. The easier way to get it on is to install it around everything except the supercharger pulley, then go underneath the car and pull it off the bottom half of the crank pulley so it is still on the top half of the crank pulley but you get a few extra inches of slack to slip it over the supercharger pulley. Once that is done, get back under the car, put your breaker bar back onto the 24mm nut and turn the engine over clockwise while guiding the belt onto the bottom half of the crank pulley as you turn it. Once I did that it went on within seconds, then cut your zip ties holding the tensioner compressed and its good to go. I don't know how anyone could have gotten enough slack in it to put the belt on the supercharger pulley last, I literally tried everything to get it to stretch on there, it wouldn't even get close. It seemed to me that there wasn't near enough travel in the tensioner to do it any other way. Hell, it was hard enough getting the oem belt off to start with, much harder than I thought it would be. Hopefully these tips will help anyone else going forward with the VAP pulley and tune install.

 

Good info, seems like the V6 6MT procedure I did is much easier, since the tensioner has some extra slack to it to use and the crank was held tight by the trans.

 

I just installed the Eurotoys crank pulley yesterday, and would not have been able to get the new belt (Gates K080580 / 8PK1475, 28mm x 1490mm OC) on were not for your instructions to wrap the belt only partially around the crank pulley and then manually rotate the crank to seat the belt. Thank you for that!!! The tensioner is indeed 99% maxed with maybe 1/4" movement when I cut the zip-tied rachet.

Also thanks for advising that the bottom hard plastic lips/ strips (left, center, right) do not require removal. These are attached only to the belly tray and have no part in, and don't block, the other screws that attach the belly tray to the car.

 

Bierry - can you please share with us your impressions? This, of course, assumes you've duly wrung the car out to fully test the capability Do you have a tune to go with the (assumed) increased boost?

 

Inmanlanier,
The only thing I feel so far are the body aches from working on this yesterday . But I've only driven a mile to get gas so far. I did intentionally put it in 3rd at lower RPM (~1500) at low speed and stepped on it to assess the increase in torque which is what the crank pulley should yield across the band, and I felt a noticeable difference compared to just VAP Stage I tune only. Will take a couple of weekends before I drive enough miles to report back. I did flash the Stage II post pulley install.

 

Years back I purchased the tune only (no pulley). My bud and I spent quite a bit of time doing pulls at varying RPM spreads on a local highway with a stop watch. Unbeknownst to me I coincidentally was having a CAT go bad at the same time, so although there were improvements, they were a bit thwarted by the car issue. The onboard Cat temp sensors were dousing the Cat with fuel, impeding the gains. Chris had just come on board with Velocity AP; they were great working with me. I decided at that time to back out and without question I got a full refund. Flash forward a year or so later (nearing the end of my factory warranty) and I bought both the tune and pully. All I could say then was WOW. I gained about 6-7 mph on the back straightaway at the local racetrack (Palm Beach International Raceway). All gears pulled a lot harder. I've driven other events (instructing for the Porsche club, for example) and the car is extremely capable. Subsequent dyno testing showed significant gains across the board.

I likely shouldn't have said the above before you wring it out but I'm hoping you'll be as pleased as I was. Despite these beasts being porky pigs (weight is the enemy) - they are phenomenal on race tracks. My only regret was getting rained out at Daytona a while back when I had the opportunity to do an SCCA Jack Track event there. I was curious to see just how fast it would run. I had road raced there for a few years a while back and know the road course. It would have been a blast, however we had a tropical storm moving in that doused the track that particular evening. In advance I backed out since I had a few hundred on Hagerty for insurance that I was able to get back. Maybe another day.