Yep, exactly the same on the 3.0 and 5.0.
Pro tip - remove the front under tray and the second/mid under tray behind that yourself before you take it in for fitting as that is where a large part of the time/labour cost is.
Based on my experience it's about two hours all up if you remove the under trays first and four hours if you don't (one hour to remove and another hour to refit).

 

Fantastic advice!! Thanks guys, tremendous help!

 

Just curious, but where would you go to have these oil tests performed?

 

Blackstone Laboratories, Fort Wayne Indiana.
You send them a small container of your used oil and they send you back a comprehensive report.
I can't seem to find a web page for them but I found their FB page instead: https://www.facebook.com/BlackstoneLaboratories/
Lance (Unhingd) uses them a fair bit.

 

They will send you free oil sample kits with prepaid postage: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/prod...bnqhikkyl))%2F

 

Just finished this Saturday. Very easy install with a lift, 2 hour job at most. Without a lift I would guess more like 3-4 because of getting the second undertray removed and the need for good leverage when pulling back on the tensioner. Bolts on the pulley weren't as tight as I expected and re-running the belt was much easier without the intake Y-pipe on.

 

Generally speaking, how often should one get these analyses? Let's say for a daily driver with a predilection for spirited driving and the odd day trip.

 

I have it done at every oil change.

 

me too!

 

I called somewhere that does oil analysis up here and when I ask for a level 1 analysis they said it would more broadly check for abnormalities, not specific to my 3L. Do you just compare 1 sample to thr previous ones or...?

 

I don't have a lift but wow? 2 hours is fast!

 

I don't have a lift but wow... 2 hours is fast! The 1 shop wanted 5 hours just to change that pulley.

 

At five hours I think they are having a lend of you and they don't really want to do it as they probably have never done this job before on a Jag.
Remove the under trays yourself and it should take no more than two hours, print off and take with you the instructions shown on this forum to show them how it's done, I have done this with such things as getting lowering springs fitted and it save the mechanic heaps of time and me heaps of money!
One tip - when I had it done I watched the mechanic (a very Jag experienced indy) and at one point he removed a black plate about 2" x 1" from under the gearbox and fiddled with something in the hole.
When I asked him why he explained that was the easy way to lock the crank, although he didn't explain exactly what he did, but maybe someone else here can explain.

 

Might be an access plate to the torque converter. Simple way to lock the crank on the MT is to put the car in gear.

 

I compare my results to my prior results to determine what the wear trending is. Blackstone also provides some useful observations and conclusions regarding what they are seeing on the report.

 

Good call. I will do just that, and try to take off the lower tray on my own, prior to bringing in.

 

I do the same, but pull the sample about a month before my scheduled service so that I might have opportunity to have them check anything that might be questionable. So far, the only thing even a little off is that they might have used the "regular" Castrol synthetic oil on my second change (if memory serves) because everything still looked good but titanium was low.

 

Extra Orange - how did your track day go? Since you are RWD - did you have fun with your tail end?

Any issues noted regarding the change on the track - water temp, ECU pulling back on power (perhaps due to detonation, other issues?)

Inquiring minds may wish to know since inquiring minds may have just placed an order!

 

hey guys, need some help!!
I have a 2018 v6. I'm trying to put the supplied belt on the new pulley but it won't fit. I was sent a belt that's the same size as the old belt.
what is the correct size for the belt I need?
Both belts I have are 1438mm. Shouldn't it be 1460mm?
Thank you

 

I have a 2014 V6S. The original double sided belt on my car was 1412mm. The double sided belt VAP sent with the crank pulley was 1461mm and was too long - it slipped badly under hard acceleration. I got a Gates DK080568 which was 1442mm and double sided and it worked. With the original belt the tensioner was about in the middle of its travel. With the 1460 belt it was almost out of travel. With the 1442 belt it was back in the middle.

Since your belt was 1438mm you probably will indeed need a 1460 belt.

BTW are you sure you are properly mounting and routing the belt? Are you sure you are fully compressing the tensioner? Its really easy to get the belt caught on the outer rib of one or more of the pulleys which might make it seem short.