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How To: VelocityAP Supercharger Crank Pulley

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  #121  
Old 12-20-2019 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RGPV6S
So VAP sent the 1460mm belt and it now works fine? Good news. Make sure you do a couple full throttle accelerations to make sure the belt doesn't slip. If it does you will know immediately.
Originally Posted by Stuart@VelocityAP
Hi Tim,

The first belt we sent to you (1438) was the wrong size for YOUR particular car. There's two different tensioner assemblies, a VIN break on each model (which we're now pretty close to having 100% dialled in) and in your case we had the wrong size for what shipped with your initial order.

The belt we sent to you is NOT an oem size. It's a custom made belt which Hutchinson makes for us (the OEM supplier) in a 1461mm length (Centrelin). I'm not aware of any 1473mm OEM belt - the 144mm4 OEM Land Rover belt has a 1473mm outside diameter, but the centreline is still 1444mm.

The second belt we sent to you is the one that we have used on circa 300 FPace, RR, RR Sport, LR4/Discovery. No issues.
First, for anyone who reads this thread and is on the fence as I was, the pulley is well worth the little extra that may be necessary. It's transformed the 'city like' characteristics, creating a smooth, progressive feel and makes the driving experience feel novel, it feels great actually. Hiccups or not it's always a pleasure to purchase from Stuart and Chris @VelocityAP.
Per the belt, the one that is now on the whip is the 1461mm. As I mentioned it fit just fine, but was extremely tight. During install, when it was explained and showed to me how tight it is, I mentioned I had read that some reliable sources use a bigger Gates belt @1473mm, I didn't realize that it in fact does not.
Stuart, I appreciate you weighing and clarifying as that helps, alot. I realize that a belt didn't fit, for this application, platform etc. so you had these custom made.
I can guess the answer here but now after you clarifying that this is undoubtedly the correct belt, why not just make the belt larger?
 
  #122  
Old 12-21-2019 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Red_rooster
First, for anyone who reads this thread and is on the fence as I was, the pulley is well worth the little extra that may be necessary. It's transformed the 'city like' characteristics, creating a smooth, progressive feel and makes the driving experience feel novel, it feels great actually. Hiccups or not it's always a pleasure to purchase from Stuart and Chris @VelocityAP.
Per the belt, the one that is now on the whip is the 1461mm. As I mentioned it fit just fine, but was extremely tight. During install, when it was explained and showed to me how tight it is, I mentioned I had read that some reliable sources use a bigger Gates belt @1473mm, I didn't realize that it in fact does not.
Stuart, I appreciate you weighing and clarifying as that helps, alot. I realize that a belt didn't fit, for this application, platform etc. so you had these custom made.
I can guess the answer here but now after you clarifying that this is undoubtedly the correct belt, why not just make the belt larger?
We needed to find a happy median for belt sizes that would also account for stretch/age. The 2 sizes we offer, have been able to avoid slippage on any current market available pulley ratio. So whether you have a 3.0 with 60.5 upper and oversized crank or even a 5.0 with 62 upper and oversized crank, or even a stock crank or any alternate combo..doesn’t matter if it’s a XE, F-Type, Range Rover, LR4..etc. The 2 sizes we offer, one that will fit. If their was a need to provide an exact length for every model, we’d need to have 6 belt sizes for Jag pulley ratios and 8 belts for Land Rover ratios(that’s a minimum number, it’s much higher with new SVR stock upper). At that point, you can almost be certain everyone would be getting the wrong size unless they physically measured the size of pulley’s.
 
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www.VelocityAP.com
Tuning@VelocityAP.com


  #123  
Old 12-21-2019 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tuning@VelocityAP
We needed to find a happy median for belt sizes that would also account for stretch/age. The 2 sizes we offer, have been able to avoid slippage on any current market available pulley ratio. So whether you have a 3.0 with 60.5 upper and oversized crank or even a 5.0 with 62 upper and oversized crank, or even a stock crank or any alternate combo..doesn’t matter if it’s a XE, F-Type, Range Rover, LR4..etc. The 2 sizes we offer, one that will fit. If their was a need to provide an exact length for every model, we’d need to have 6 belt sizes for Jag pulley ratios and 8 belts for Land Rover ratios(that’s a minimum number, it’s much higher with new SVR stock upper). At that point, you can almost be certain everyone would be getting the wrong size unless they physically measured the size of pulley’s.
So what are the two lengths you have? Are they both double sided?
 
  #124  
Old 12-21-2019 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RGPV6S
So what are the two lengths you have? Are they both double sided?
Yes, both are double sided. Stuart explained this earlier. 1438mm which is an oem belt we can provide, and 1461mm is a belt we have created for us.
 
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Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, BC
Canada V0H 1T9
Office Tel: (250) 485-5126
www.VelocityAP.com
Tuning@VelocityAP.com


  #125  
Old 06-08-2020 | 02:52 PM
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Not-so-pro-tip: Don't pull everything apart and then realize that the torx bit you knew was the right size wasn't the right size. D'oh!
 
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  #126  
Old 06-08-2020 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by lizzardo
Not-so-pro-tip: Don't pull everything apart and then realize that the torx bit you knew was the right size wasn't the right size. D'oh!
lol, I can’t stress the importance of having the right tools and multiple different lengths of extensions and a very long handled half inch ratchet. Also, if you have red Loctite bolts like I did holding the pulley into place... you’ll want to be sure to have a breaker bar in place with a 24mm socket I believe to keep the crank (motor) from turning over. If I didn’t have multiple possibilities in terms of breaker bars and torque wrench with pivoting head I couldn’t have gotten the job done. As well and this thread! Shout out once again to Stohlen for this guide ! TY
 
  #127  
Old 06-08-2020 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by supersportmtl
lol, I can’t stress the importance of having the right tools and multiple different lengths of extensions and a very long handled half inch ratchet. Also, if you have red Loctite bolts like I did holding the pulley into place... you’ll want to be sure to have a breaker bar in place with a 24mm socket I believe to keep the crank (motor) from turning over. If I didn’t have multiple possibilities in terms of breaker bars and torque wrench with pivoting head I couldn’t have gotten the job done. As well and this thread! Shout out once again to Stohlen for this guide ! TY
I was doing pretty well. I kept all the nice hand tools I accumulated as a professional mechanic, but I didn't have that torx bit so it all went back together. Fortunately, I hadn't pulled the belt yet, so it was just the cover and its plethora of fasteners.

I definitely miss my old lift though. When we closed up, I had no place for it :-(
 
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  #128  
Old 06-09-2020 | 07:13 AM
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Hey at least it's just a torx bit. You having been a mechanic should have no issues getting this done quickly. If you are working on jack stands like I did, I strongly recommend a second pair of (strong) hands for getting the belt over the idler next to the supercharger pulley. The belt fits on tight. Tight...
The rest was just a lot of wrenching because Jaguar loves bolts.
 
  #129  
Old 06-14-2020 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by supersportmtl
Hey at least it's just a torx bit. You having been a mechanic should have no issues getting this done quickly. If you are working on jack stands like I did, I strongly recommend a second pair of (strong) hands for getting the belt over the idler next to the supercharger pulley. The belt fits on tight. Tight...
The rest was just a lot of wrenching because Jaguar loves bolts.
The belt wasn't that tight on mine, perhaps because it's a year older than yours and two cylinders down. In any case, I did it in the driveway on about 7" of ramp, front only. I I didn't set a timer, but I think it was about 2.5 hours total, including a couple of trips inside to check torque specs and belt routing, and to get a quick snack.

I grabbed a bunch of tools but ended up using only this set:



Once I was done, I needed some appropriate music:


 
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supersportmtl (06-17-2020)
  #130  
Old 06-17-2020 | 12:11 AM
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Still feeling "All Revved Up With No Place To Go" but took another short spin today. I don't have the everyday feeling to compare to anymore. I filled up my car on the test drive but it was two months since last refueling. I'd been averaging 10-ish days per tank, but things have changed and it's not just the weather.

My seat-of-the-pants reactions are not nearly what they would have been otherwise, but I'm liking it. The midrange comes on more strongly. I need more saddle time to fully assess it but I wish I'd done it sooner. It was a pain in the ***, but not nearly as much as I'd dreaded (once I had the right Torx bit).
 
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  #131  
Old 06-17-2020 | 06:31 PM
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I used to get a kick out of all the hype on horsepower and how that number is all that's ever discussed. The reality is that HP is simply a function of Torque. HP you see at top end. Torque is what you feel - it's what rocks you back in your seat. I've always built my motors to have a decent torque/power balance - but with the bias towards torque. My Factory Five Cobra is a little old 302 (build in '97), but it's 375 ft. lbs. of torque, with a power curve below 6200 RPM in a 2200# car. I used to think that was nirvana. These cars are even better... dial up some boost, pile on the low to mid-range torque and grin, grin, grin.
 

Last edited by inmanlanier; 06-17-2020 at 06:33 PM.
  #132  
Old 06-17-2020 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by inmanlanier
I used to get a kick out of all the hype on horsepower and how that number is all that's ever discussed. The reality is that HP is simply a function of Torque. HP you see at top end. Torque is what you feel - it's what rocks you back in your seat. I've always built my motors to have a decent torque/power balance - but with the bias towards torque. My Factory Five Cobra is a little old 302 (build in '97), but it's 375 ft. lbs. of torque, with a power curve below 6200 RPM in a 2200# car. I used to think that was nirvana. These cars are even better... dial up some boost, pile on the low to mid-range torque and grin, grin, grin.
I'm not racing and don't give a flying handshake about horsepower or 0-60 bragging rights. Real world power is where it's at, and for me, the real world is a string midrange without lag. Being strong on the top end is a bonus

A nice, twisty road with a 30-80mph range that goes on all day is ideal for this car.
 
  #133  
Old 06-18-2020 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by lizzardo
A nice, twisty road with a 30-80mph range that goes on all day is ideal for this car.
Agreed - 3rd and 4th gears (automatic), 5th occasionally.
 
  #134  
Old 06-18-2020 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by lizzardo
The belt wasn't that tight on mine, perhaps because it's a year older than yours and two cylinders down. In any case, I did it in the driveway on about 7" of ramp, front only. I I didn't set a timer, but I think it was about 2.5 hours total, including a couple of trips inside to check torque specs and belt routing, and to get a quick snack.

I grabbed a bunch of tools but ended up using only this set:



Once I was done, I needed some appropriate music:

Those are the perfect tools for the job. The long arm swivel head ratched from snap on is what I was missing! Need to get one! Nice tools btw!
 
  #135  
Old 07-13-2020 | 03:14 PM
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Default Bad Belt Alignment?

Hey guys (and gals), new to the forums but have been following this thread for awhile as I was planning on a lower pulley and tune. Well yesterday was the day and unfortunately I don't think things were done correctly.

I was sent the lower pulley and the 1461 belt. I fully expected it to be tight but was a bit surprised on the amount of clearance between the idler pulley and the crank pulley. Took awhile to work the belt in between but with a friend helping above I was able to get over tensioner and all seemed well (was able to get crank pulley on fairly quickly). Checked alignment, belt seating, etc. Well upon starting the car things sounded a bit louder than the OEM setup. I proceeded to to take a test drive and noticed the smell of rubber fairly significantly. I assumed this may be normal with a new belt stretching or breaking in but once I got home I noticed tiny rubber shavings thrown around under the hood. So my question is.....I'm guessing this is not normal? I checked the belt seating and without releasing tension again it appears and feels fine. Pulleys appear to align. Could I have ran the belt wrong? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
 
  #136  
Old 07-13-2020 | 03:16 PM
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Geez...forgot vehicle info! Its a 2016 F-Type R.
 
  #137  
Old 07-13-2020 | 03:26 PM
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I would recheck to make sure the belt is seated properly on all the pulleys. Also VAP has crank pulleys with two different offsets. Maybe they sent you the wrong pulley. I think one OEM type is grey and the other black you might contact VAP to make sure you got the right one.

Also did you do any full throttle pulls? If you did without the belt squealing then its probably a misaligned belt or wrong offset pulley. If it squealed the belt is too long. VAP has two different length belts too.

BTW another forum member had issues and the SC belt slipped off the SC pulley and rubbed through the intake tubing - that might be the source of the rubber or plastic dust you are seeing. Here is a thread about it:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...pulley-234371/
 

Last edited by RGPV6S; 07-13-2020 at 03:33 PM.
  #138  
Old 07-13-2020 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Hear2lisn
Hey guys (and gals), new to the forums but have been following this thread for awhile as I was planning on a lower pulley and tune. Well yesterday was the day and unfortunately I don't think things were done correctly.

I was sent the lower pulley and the 1461 belt. I fully expected it to be tight but was a bit surprised on the amount of clearance between the idler pulley and the crank pulley. Took awhile to work the belt in between but with a friend helping above I was able to get over tensioner and all seemed well (was able to get crank pulley on fairly quickly). Checked alignment, belt seating, etc. Well upon starting the car things sounded a bit louder than the OEM setup. I proceeded to to take a test drive and noticed the smell of rubber fairly significantly. I assumed this may be normal with a new belt stretching or breaking in but once I got home I noticed tiny rubber shavings thrown around under the hood. So my question is.....I'm guessing this is not normal? I checked the belt seating and without releasing tension again it appears and feels fine. Pulleys appear to align. Could I have ran the belt wrong? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
There are folks on here that have more knowledge than me on the subject, but your experience can not be good. When I installed my lower pulley and took that first drive, although a bit nervous there was no smell at all, and definitely no belt fragments about.

Best of luck, I'm certain additional folks will chime in with more advice.
 

Last edited by NigelW; 07-13-2020 at 03:30 PM.
  #139  
Old 07-13-2020 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Hear2lisn
Hey guys (and gals), new to the forums but have been following this thread for awhile as I was planning on a lower pulley and tune. Well yesterday was the day and unfortunately I don't think things were done correctly.

I was sent the lower pulley and the 1461 belt. I fully expected it to be tight but was a bit surprised on the amount of clearance between the idler pulley and the crank pulley. Took awhile to work the belt in between but with a friend helping above I was able to get over tensioner and all seemed well (was able to get crank pulley on fairly quickly). Checked alignment, belt seating, etc. Well upon starting the car things sounded a bit louder than the OEM setup. I proceeded to to take a test drive and noticed the smell of rubber fairly significantly. I assumed this may be normal with a new belt stretching or breaking in but once I got home I noticed tiny rubber shavings thrown around under the hood. So my question is.....I'm guessing this is not normal? I checked the belt seating and without releasing tension again it appears and feels fine. Pulleys appear to align. Could I have ran the belt wrong? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
Hi. There are two different belt lengths we supply, and two different crank pulley offsets. Either could be wrong. I would recommend contacting us with your order number and we can confirm.

When the orders are placed on our website it requests your OEM crank pulley colour and your VIN so we can size the belt correctly.
 
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  #140  
Old 07-13-2020 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Hear2lisn
Hey guys (and gals), new to the forums but have been following this thread for awhile as I was planning on a lower pulley and tune. Well yesterday was the day and unfortunately I don't think things were done correctly.

I was sent the lower pulley and the 1461 belt. I fully expected it to be tight but was a bit surprised on the amount of clearance between the idler pulley and the crank pulley. Took awhile to work the belt in between but with a friend helping above I was able to get over tensioner and all seemed well (was able to get crank pulley on fairly quickly). Checked alignment, belt seating, etc. Well upon starting the car things sounded a bit louder than the OEM setup. I proceeded to to take a test drive and noticed the smell of rubber fairly significantly. I assumed this may be normal with a new belt stretching or breaking in but once I got home I noticed tiny rubber shavings thrown around under the hood. So my question is.....I'm guessing this is not normal? I checked the belt seating and without releasing tension again it appears and feels fine. Pulleys appear to align. Could I have ran the belt wrong? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
Definitely check the belt routing, lots of pics online of the front engine view:
http://i0.wp.com/thegermantooltruck....5/10/aj133.jpg

Btw, there's 2 crank pulley versions Silver vs Black. If you have a Silver pulley stock, you need to install a Silver pulley. The color is not a choice of preference, it's to correctly align the different belt offset.

We do have 2 different belt sizes, 1438mm and 1461mm, if you had trouble fitting the 1461mm, odds are you have a belt that fits snugg/tight (no chance of slipping). My guess would be belt not routed correctly OR wrong pulley offset installed.
 
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Christopher Edgett
Technical Director

Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, BC
Canada V0H 1T9
Office Tel: (250) 485-5126
www.VelocityAP.com
Tuning@VelocityAP.com




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