Hi everyone hope you all are having an amazing week!
Im new to the forms and just got my F type S this Tuesday would love tips & advice as things to look out for...

Also what are common and recommended mods especially before a tune?

 

This question has been asked many times before.
The numero uno first mod by far is to get rid of the crappy P-Zero OEM tyres and replace them with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, assuming your car has the P-Zeros on it.

 

Hey Newbie. Welcome to the fold!


Check out the Sticky Threads (top of this sub-forum) if you haven't already. Especially this one.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...issues-105493/

 

Welcome to F-type ownership. There isn't a big selection of mods for F-type, other than various esthetic changes and tunes. A popular mod is Project 7 grille that removes bar across oval grille. Another must-have "mod" is to upgrade tires to MP4S. Catching up with maintenance is also a good project to take on. Some people lower F-types, but this has detrimental effect on quality of life as front bumper and splitter are already very low.

F-type shares a lot of mechanics with earlier Jaguar XKR, even early F-types benefit from 'mid cycle' mechanical updates and are considered reliable. As no car is perfect, there are few common themes and re-occurring flaws that you will have to deal with.

Issue 1: Cooling system and plastic coolant piping - unfortunately a number of plastic coolant pipes in the engine bay were made from material that becomes brittle with age and splits at the seam. This was made worse by adding an insulated engine cover that traps heat in the engine bay. Some of these coolant pipes are in the engine valley, requiring removal of supercharger to replace. Parts were updated around 2017 to seam-less design to prevent splitting, but your F-type does not have them installed from the factory. These can fail two ways - sudden failure where you dump all coolant and overheat the engine or slow leak. Sudden coolant loss is more dangerous as in-dash engine temperature indicator displays a running average and not instant engine temperature measures, delaying when the driver notified about overheating. So by the time you see the dash warning about overheating the engine have been cooking, potentially without any coolant at all, for a few minutes. Treat anything related to cooling system as an emergency, do not wait to pull over, shut the engine off, and open the hood. If you get coolant warning, have the car towed unless you can confirm it still has coolant. While this might be an overkill, I also ask my garage to pressure test cooling system every year prior to storing it for the winter. Additionally I permanently removed engine cover and it had measurable effect on reducing engine bay temperature.

Issue 2: Engine oil and sludge. AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6 engines in F-type use direct injection (DI). DI means these engines are prone to developing sludge on intake valves if oil is neglected. These engines also use oil pressure to control variable timing. All of this means that things go bad very quickly when the oil gets dirty. Fortunately, frequent oil changes using spec oil shown to largely mitigate sludge. It is very crucial that you stay on top of oil changes and use spec synthetic oil with specified additives. Also keep in mind AJ133 V8 doesn't have low oil pressure sensor (yes, you read it right), this means you can run the car dry and it will not warn you. All of this means that you have to be religious about changing oil and monitoring engine oil level.

Issue 3: Injectors. AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6 engines in F-type use direct injection (DI). This system has two stage fuel pumps and high-pressure injectors. This setup means that running out of gas has a chance to damage pumps, so take care not to do that. Injector failures are unfortunately known to happen where the whole rail has to be replaced, but can be mitigated with regular use of PEA-containing injector cleaning. I recommend running PEA fuel additives like BG 44K annually or budget for injector replacement in a couple years.

Issue 4: Battery and charging. When you plug anything into OBD port, power management control module is known to get glitched and not completely power the car down. This in turn runs the main battery flat as the car never fully shuts down. To fix this, you need to disconnect the main battery to reset the power control module. Dead battery in a locked car is a huge inconvenience, as you need power to open the trunk to access the battery, so it can lock you out of the car and it is nuisance to get it resolved. My suggestions: a) know emergency unlock procedure (with mechanical key hidden in the fob) and boost points in your engine bay b) avoid using OBD readers or assume it will glitch and reset PCM after each use. You can visually tell that the car did not fully power down if emergency triangle stays illuminated 10 minutes after you locked the car - this means PCM is glitched. More so, having marginal battery on these cars is known to trigger all kind of fault codes, so if you suddenly see multiple dash warnings about unrelated things... don't panic, it just might be a marginal battery.

While this is not a fault or mechanical issue, make sure to stay on top of transmission, differential, supercharger oil, brake fluids and engine coolant changes. Low miles on your car does not mean that original fluids are fine - as they degrade both with use and time. Unless you have records from PO, assume that nothing other than oil changes was done (many people treat lease cars as a rental). This means you have to catch up on all other fluid and filter changes. Changing engine oil is crucially important, but there are other fluids and filters that also have to be regularly changed. Especially important is transmission fluid and filter - these cars come equipped with a superb automatic transmission that I expect to last forever, that is unless you never change transmission fluid.

Also this has to be mentioned. If your car is still on Pzero tires - these are the worst "performance" tires in the industry. Upgrade to MP4S and it will transform how your car handles.

 

F Type S very confusing.
I’m guessing that it’s a V8.
Mine is aV6S.
JLR love to play around with model numbers.

 

Personally I found the most improvement to driving the car was not only the tyres by getting rid of those super heavy OEM wheels and having forged wheels put on (with the michelin tyres). Massive improvement to handling and ride.

The cheapest mod is to take off the engine cover, you get a bit more induction noise from that. Takes 30 seconds, and is fully reversible.

 

Given that his username has a 380 suffix I'm assuming a V6S.

I've made no secret of the fact that I think the "symposer" is an affront to the senses, and it's quite easy to defeat. Other than that, what everyone else has said ...

 

‘F-type S’ is what Jaguar calls what we call V6S. I use V6S as it’s unambiguous.

 

Wasn't the early lower powerd v8 called an S?

 

Sort of.
The 2013/2014 convertible V8 was named "V8S" while the V6S was named just "S".
But to confuse things further they both had the exact same "S" badges on the grille and boot/trunk.

 

Fortunately dual or quad exhaust pipes quickly clear up any S confusion.

 

Unless you're Unhingd ...

 

With the sound coming from the back of my Quad VAP Valvetronic exhaust, there is no way that symposer impacts the aural experience. If there was any significant weight saving to be gained, though, I’d remove it immediately.

 

An S coupe with quad pipes really confuses those that think they’re in the know.

 

Those really in the know recognize the U badge in the window, though it’s usually traveling too fast to be seen...

 

you need to take a video and slow it down to one frame per hour.

 

Is this the frame you were talking about?