Okay, I just bought myself a project car (oh lord, protect my wallet). It’s a 2017 F-Type with 59k miles. Now where to begin. Looking for some advice on what to tackle first as I feel like a lot of these are connected.



Codes errors:

P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire

P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire

P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire

P050B: Cold Start Ignition Timing Performance

P2610: ECM/PCM Internal Engine Off Timer Performance

P1315: Persistent Misfire



For the P030x causes:

• Faulty or worn spark plugs
• Faulty spark plug wires or coils
• Vacuum leak
• Low fuel pressure
• Camshaft sensor defective
• Crankshaft sensor defective
• Engine timing off
• Leaking head gasket
• Low engine compression
• Poor quality fuel / Misfueling

For P1315 causes:

• Cylinder compression low
• Low fuel pressure
• Clogged fuel injectors
• Faulty / worn out spark plugs
• Faulty ignition coil
• Faulty fuel injectors
• Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

For P2610 causes:

• Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
• Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
• ECM/PCM Harness is open or shorted
• ECM/PCM Circuit poor electrical connection
• ECM/PCM outdated program

There is no visible leaking of any oil/coolant/etc anywhere nor any smoke from tailpipe. Everything looks “dry”. My initial thought was to just replace the fuel injectors and spark plugs first. But the inability of the car to maintain a steady idle reminds me of a vacuum leak in the PCV valve I’ve had before in a different car. Also, a little weird is the high-pitched whirring that doesn’t sound normal to me. Could that be a function of the above issues? I would imagine the ECM is giving codes because of the above issues as I’ve not heard of those guys failing often. So in recap:

1st - Replace PCV valve. Check for improvement

2nd - Replace Fuel injectors/spark plugs. Check for improvement.

3rd – Come back here for next steps.



Anything else that is easy/simple to check/replace that I should do? Check out the video on youtube of the engine running:

 

Two of those could be caused by low compression, so it's probably worthwhile starting with a compression test. If nothing else it gives a baseline for you, but it it shows serious problems expect to be writing some big checks.

 

I think you have your work cut out for you.

 

Yeah while it's (probably) too late in your case, anyone buying a used car should at least run a compression and leakdown test, which can go a long way to find what's going on, and may provide evidence for a better deal.

 

Not a mechanic so take take this with a grain of salt, butttttt if it were mine i would:

1. Compression test
2. Smoke it for leaks if compression is fine. If there is a leak to explain the whirling noise then….
3. Replace the injectors, spark plugs and coils. They are all in the same area and not too expensive.

Ive had P030x and P1315, (and P050B) codes before. Replacing the injectors, spark plugs, and coils fixed it. Pretty sure it was only the injectors, but since they are all in the same area and not too expensive I replaced the others.

For completion, I should mention that the fuel pumps were replaced because of plans for larger supercharger.

Best of luck

 

Agree on compression test. Depending on those results, I would first inspect the wiring to see if any rodents chewed on it.

 

I'd consider looking in to the O2 sensors as well. If they are reading incorrectly they can be feeding bad info to the ECU.

 

That whirring noise could be a stuck bypass valve in the supercharger.

 

Update on compression test:
1 - 145psi, 3 - 145psi, 5 - 150psi
2 - 150psi, 4 - 160psi, 6 - 160psi
Seems "left bank" is ever so slightly lower, but seems like its generally okay. I have new spark plugs and new fuel injectors enroute.

Obi, what is a "smoke test"?
How do I check for a stuck bypass valve on the supercharger?

 

I see your problem.. you're missing cylinders 7 and 8!!

But seriously, those compression numbers are good, the video certainly sounds like it has some sort of vacuum leak. Likely why it is surging and misfiring as with the unmetered air the fueling would be way off..

 

Update on coils:
All are measuring ~33ohms across primary and ~66kohm across secondary. I can't find what they are "supposed" to be, but they are all consistent so I'm thinking they are good.

Also, how similar is the XJ to the F-type? I find LOTS of stuff on the web regarding the XJ, but less about the F-type. Just wondering if I can reference XJ info...

 

If you are talking about the AJ126 (V6 SC) then it's the exact same engine across all Jags including the F-Type and XJ. The only differences I am aware of (excluding different states of tune) are the location and routing of some of the coolant system components such as the expansion tank and associated tubes and the location of the air intakes and filters.

 

a lot of info on the XF forums

 

Update: Hello Jag Fam

Keeping everyone up to speed. I finally removed all the fuel injectors. Five came out fairly easily, but bloody hell, number 2 required me using a jack to pry that sucker out! (see my crazy setup in the picture). Looking at the injectors, ya, it looks like I need to replace them.

So my question now, after doing a deep cleaning, I still have some rust/crust in the injector seal area. Should I keep cleaning and try to get it sparkly clean or just go with what I have? I do plan on using permatex anti-seize on all the injectors regardless.

Also, I used some rust remover on the bolts holding the coils in and it stripped some of the galvanization off. Should I get new bolts or not worry about it?



After

Before

 

My feeling is, if you have a fully rusted bolt, etc. out, replace it.

 

I think the rattle is the supercharger drive coupling and there are some good aftermarket solutions. Not sure about the whine, but the above suggestion about the bypass valve seems legit. I'm guessing the engine is fine. You might want to take an oil sample and send it out to Blackstone labs for a Used Oil Analysis. This can help ease your mind with regard to internal engine problems.

As far as the bolts go, you could use a corrosion inhibiting product on them if you don't want to replace them. I like LPS-3 or better yet, Corrosion X "Max-Wax" as it leaves a tough waxy coating that will not come off. AND/OR simply paint them with a high heat paint and bake them in the toaster oven at 250 deg F for about 30 mins.

The injector bores must be clean, as they need to seal combustion pressures.

 

Update:
I cleaned out the bores as best I could. The tip part is where the seal is made so I'm gonna go with what I have (spent WAY too many hours and different chemicals trying to get it spotless). Bought new bolts because a whole set was only like $14. I'll try the supercharger suggestions once I have the injectors/SP's installed.

Here's a question: while I have the injector/spark plugs out, should I try to clean the cylinders or just run intake/carb cleaner once its running? I saw this method, thoughts?
"Remove spark plugs, spray carb or brake cleaner into SP holes. attach a long thin pipe to compressed air hose (i use a piece of brake pipe brazed to a blower nozzle) , move piston to TDC..lay rags around the sp openings, insert air pipe and blow all around the top of the piston letting the debis leave the sp hole around the pipe, check the piston and repeat until as clean as it will get..next I add about 2-3 cc of automatic transmission fluid into sp hole, rotate engine 3-4 revolutions, reinstall plugs and anything else that needed to be removed, let car sit for 10-20 hours unrun. Next start up car and take it for a 30 minute drive at highway speeds."

 

That method works for older engines which have a lot of carbon build up on the tops of the pistons and in the combustion chambers but it is not needed on the AJ133 and AJ126. To clean this type of carbon build up on these engines, including on the injectors, you simply need to regularly use good fuel additives like BG 44K and Redline SI-1. The "big" problem on those engines is carbon build up on the backs of the intake valves and on the inlet tracts, because GDI, and neither the method you detail or any fuel additive will touch that let alone remove it. To remove that build up you need to either manually clean the valves and intake tracts such as by walnut blasting or a method using chemicals/cleaners etc similar to the method you detail (obviously labour intensive as the SC needs to come off) or you can try valve and intake cleaner such as CRC which is sprayed into the intake system after the MAF sensors. I have used the CRC three times now, it seems to help, but the jury is out on exactly how much carbon build up it really removes.
My advice is if and when you remove the SC to replace the coupler try your method down the intake ports, plenty of vids on YouTube showing how to do it. The most important thing is to make sure the intake valves are closed tight on each cylinder you do so you will need to rotate the engine a couple of times.

 

Update: uugghhh. What did I do? I put the new injectors in and the new spark plugs and everything else back in place (including putting the fuel pump fuse in the correct spot after putting it in the incorrect spot). When i got to try to start it up to see how the codes have been affected, the car doesn't start. At all. It doesn't even turn over, just actually shuts down from the "on before engine running mode" to "off" (see video). I've had the battery on a tender (with battery disconnected for charging) and its showing 12.6V. My initial thought is I've somehow triggered the security system that prevents it from starting? Or could all this be from one of the connectors not being fully connected? Or could this battery just be toast and not have enough cranking amps anymore (this car was sitting idle for ~5 months). I've tried the manual lock/unlock with the key as well as arm/unarm with the remote. No change. The only noise I hear is from the part in the picture clicking. Also, when I close the car the display, hazard light button, and temp button stay illuminated (that's a good way to kill a battery....).
Video of the shutdown:

 

My guess is the battery is kaput. Although if it was you would think you would get a low battery warning.