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14,0
14,000 mile 2015 S Type sat on trickle charger for one month; car will not recognize key fob. Car has power; moved the FOB to the place on the dash where the owner's manual suggested.
Replaced FOB battery. Ordered new battery just in case. This bonehead forgot to get an additional FOB after purchasing it used 9 months ago.
Now the car is nosed in a tight garage and hope it can be started with the "KVM" module in the trunk. Full disclosure, I have no idea what I am talking about after SU carbs.
Hard reset is no big deal; just pull the cable off for a couple of minutes.
You're showing our age by bring up the much maligned J.L. Between the S1 electrical and the triple carbs, you've seen much, much worse. Probably had to pull the engine to do that clutch, too.
5mins of disconnecting the negative is the same thing. I guess if you cant wait 5mins this is faster. Makes sense if you have 20 cars to service in a day but why risk it.
...Probably had to pull the engine to do that clutch, too...
Ugh, now that hit close to home. My sister had an MG Midget and I helped her change the clutch. For such a small engine, it was quite the ordeal... geez, I think I recall it was a carbon throwout "bearing". The odd thing that minds remember, must be due to the mental scaring...
Hahaha the Lucas nightmare and the Stromberg carbs. Hahaha. Very familiar with that combo on my old Triumph
He mentioned SUs, not Strombergs I've had both on my cars. The Strombergs seemed a little more modern. D-Jetronic sometimes made me miss carburetors, K-Jetronic at times as well. Riding a Ducati with injection on a trip that included everything from near sea level to a 12,000 foot pass cured me of that. It never missed a beat.
Back on topic: I've got an issue with mine right now that the fob is not recognized on the passenger side, but is on the driver's side and inside the car. I suspect the antenna (there are a number of them) or the wiring, and will know more in a few weeks when it goes in for service. If holding it next to the spot inside that is indicated doesn't allow the car to start but the buttons on the fob lock and unlock the car, it's probably not the battery.
SUs we’re on my Datsun Z car before I went to Holley. Strombergs I rebuilt on my Triumph I believe. It’s been decades at this point
Originally Posted by lizzardo
He mentioned SUs, not Strombergs I've had both on my cars. The Strombergs seemed a little more modern. D-Jetronic sometimes made me miss carburetors, K-Jetronic at times as well. Riding a Ducati with injection on a trip that included everything from near sea level to a 12,000 foot pass cured me of that. It never missed a beat.
Back on topic: I've got an issue with mine right now that the fob is not recognized on the passenger side, but is on the driver's side and inside the car. I suspect the antenna (there are a number of them) or the wiring, and will know more in a few weeks when it goes in for service. If holding it next to the spot inside that is indicated doesn't allow the car to start but the buttons on the fob lock and unlock the car, it's probably not the battery.
Hard reset is no big deal; just pull the cable off for a couple of minutes.
You're showing our age by bring up the much maligned J.L. Between the S1 electrical and the triple carbs, you've seen much, much worse. Probably had to pull the engine to do that clutch, too.
(Cheers from a S1.5)
Mechanical things can be sorted out, but try replacing rear brake pads on an E Type!
My 1966 Mini was easy to figure out. 2003 and 2006 Minis had to be sold because the computers were all fighting with each other.
But I sure appreciate fuel injection and electronic ignition!
Mechanical things can be sorted out, but try replacing rear brake pads on an E Type!
I know I'm getting rather off-topic, but you reminded me of when I moved to CT with the E-Type. CT required a safety inspection of all cars moving into the state, and mine failed because the parking brake was essentially useless. Their test was to have you put on the parking brake, take your foot off the main brake, and pop the clutch to see if the car would hold well enough to stall out. Mine wouldn't. I expect you're familiar that the parking brake is separate from the main brakes and runs through the rear end. A real PIA and I didn't have a bay available to get into it. So, I hijacked the toggle switch for the windshield washers and ran the rear brake lights through it. On the retest, when they said to take my foot off the main brake, I just quietly flipped the switch. The brake lights when out and the car dutifully stalled when I popped the clutch. Ta-da.
Is this your original battery or the new one you bought? If it’s your new battery then you have a parasitic drain that you will need to track down. If it’s your original then maybe it’s just finally given up .
Is this your original battery or the new one you bought? If it’s your new battery then you have a parasitic drain that you will need to track down. If it’s your original then maybe it’s just finally given up .
The battery is fresh and always on a quality maintainer. I know how sensitive they are to low charge.
[QUOTE=Dan Bennett;2544978]Did you ever get this sorted?[/QUOTE
We left town for a bit. Still sitting in the garage. having a tech look at it next week. My fear is it will have to be dragged out of a narrow garage! Hope it does not come to that.
Sincere thanks for checking up on me, I definitely will report what I hope is a happy ending. (I still have a warranty on it)
Unrelated to your problem but I got mine solved, although for a price. A rodent had chewed on the wiring between the antenna (right in front of the rear wheel) and the junction (I think in the passenger footwell). I'm not sure if they pulled the rocker panel or something underneath, but the tech soldered it up and it's working again.
07-05-2022 | 02:19 PM
Key FOB not recognized
