Hmmm, it's been a long time since I've used my chemistry, but… I looked up the van der waals constants for N2 and O2 and they're nearly identical. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Van_der...nts_(data_page)

Translated, this means these two gasses will behave identically in real-world pressure vs. temperature vs. volume situations. Any chemical engineers out there that want to run the numbers and set me straight feel free to do so.

I can see that replacing the air would remove water vapor, which might make a difference in pressure as it condenses and boils. But dry gas is dry gas, whether it's 100% N2 or 80/20 N2/O2

Some guy on the internet says that tire rubber is more permeable to oxygen vs nitrogen. That may be, but I'll just check my tire pressure periodically. Even then I'd worry more about a nail than I would the permeability of rubber.

I gotta call shenanigans on this myth.

 

...then again, I'm the guy who broke his valve stem with a pair of pliers, so take my opinion for what it's worth

 

I was writing a very detailed response and realized that it was so far off-topic that it might be considered inappropriate by some not interested in pursuing the political science of conflict on an automotive enthusiast forum. My apologies.

 

+1. I always use anti-seize lubricant on the studs and the hub faces, particularly around the centering ring. It's particularly useful with steel rims but also needed with alloy wheels.

 

+1. Track use maybe, street use not so important. Air is 78% nitrogen anyway. Primary value is that pure N2 contains no water vapor and permeates rubber at a slower rate than O2 containing air by about 33%. Here's a full discussion: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...150217173220:s

 

I did find it amusing how we shifted from a simple accessory to politics (surely not my intention) to chemistry but shows you how fascinating the world and its people - including those on this Forum - is/are. Keep em flying (and that includes you Lance).

 

My vehicles tires are nitrogen filled and the one clear advantage is that they do hold their pressure much longer than straight air filled. I leave winters in my garage over the summer and the pressure is usually dead on when I go to re-mount them.... in the past with straight air the pressure always bled away slightly, in comparison.
It is most noticeable on vehicles with a spare tire that sits for a couple of years, yet the pressure remains quite constant.
Lawrence.

 

But I thought all F-Types have tire pressure monitoring but they do not all seem to have the long valve stems?

Will it cause any harm to use the valve stem caps that do not completely cover the stems? I had already purchased the British flag and "R" caps but they only cover the top half of the valve stem and not the lower part.

On a separate note, it appears my car has wheel locks installed? I did not order them but when connecting the battery tender I found the package they came in and, I suppose, the tool for removing them. I have never had, nor thought I needed, wheel locks and worry that if I have a flat they will be difficult to remove?

 

I talked to my tire guy yesterday as dealers here all want to charge for wheel locks and at a pretty penny. His advice was not to get them as they only have a limited life of about a dozen or more usages. And that's if they are treated right.

 

I may be wrong on this one, but I was pretty sure TPMS is an option, not standard.

Do you mean wheel lock nuts (the ones that attach your wheel to the hub, not the ones at the valve stem base)? No, they are no more difficult to remove than normal wheel nuts. And they are a very good idea for piece of mind!

No, I don't believe using dust caps that only partially cover the stem should be a problem. Their point is just to stop foreign matter getting in to the end of the valve, causing a leak. They don't do anything to actually seal in air.

 

I don't like wheel locks and don't use them. The only argument for them is if you frequently park your car outside in an unattended area, which I assume you don't. I'd remove them now and put on matching lugs while they are easily removable. You can easily do that yourself, no need to jack it up, as it can be done on the ground.

If your dealer installed them, they should have left you with the 4 lugs they took off. I've had them come installed on new cars, and the dealer left the std. lugs in the packaging, with the removal key.

I'd call your dealer GM, explain they owe you 4 lugs, which you would like to be mailed to you.

P.S. I wouldn't worry about your valve stem issue.

 

The Jaguar OEM valve covers are not metal and will not seize.

 

Don't know about other countries, but all cars in the USA must have TPMS. Safety standard.

 

If you lose the special key it can be a *BIG* PITA.

As Foosh said, replace with the regular lug nuts.

 

my car came with it installed. I had the dealer remove them and put the regulars back on for the same reason...PITA in case key is lost, service guy accidentally tries to remove it and damages it. Never heard of wheels getting stolen that were saved by lock.

 

You got that one from Yogi Berra, didn't you?

Any wheels getting stolen weren't saved by anything....


Seriously though, from a statistical observation standpoint, wouldn't your data be skewed? You would only be aware of the failures, but none of the successes of wheel locks. I'm not a proponent. I think they are a PITA as well but they do present at least somewhat of a theft deterrent.

 

I glanced at the [now 3] extra Jaguar Union Jack value covers I have this morning and they appear to be made of plastic...

 

On my wife's MINI, metal caps interfere with the transmitters and the TPMS won't work. I suspect the same is the case on the Jag..

 

I would caution you using anti-seize or any other lubricant on the studs. This will prevent proper torque on the lug nuts and could cause loosening of the wheel.

 

Actually, quite the contrary. Unless the torque can be smoothly applied to a free spinning bolt or nut, you can't be certain of the exact preload of the fastener. The tightness relies on the deflection of the threads rather than on sliding friction. Therefore the fastener has to be torqued within the specific range to flex the thread without permanently deforming the thread.