Least Expensive (But I Think Cool) F-Type Accessory?
#41
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Translated, this means these two gasses will behave identically in real-world pressure vs. temperature vs. volume situations. Any chemical engineers out there that want to run the numbers and set me straight feel free to do so.
I can see that replacing the air would remove water vapor, which might make a difference in pressure as it condenses and boils. But dry gas is dry gas, whether it's 100% N2 or 80/20 N2/O2
Some guy on the internet says that tire rubber is more permeable to oxygen vs nitrogen. That may be, but I'll just check my tire pressure periodically. Even then I'd worry more about a nail than I would the permeability of rubber.
I gotta call shenanigans on this myth.
![Icon Twocents](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_twocents.gif)
Last edited by Muddydog; 02-17-2015 at 10:00 AM.
The following users liked this post:
mshedden (02-18-2015)
#42
#43
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was writing a very detailed response and realized that it was so far off-topic that it might be considered inappropriate by some not interested in pursuing the political science of conflict on an automotive enthusiast forum. My apologies.
#44
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A little anti-seize grease on the threads works wonders for that kind of thing.
Dissimilar metals can corrode badly. Before I figured that out, my Landcruiser aluminum rear wheels would weld (corrode) themselves on to the point where it took an 8' fence post, a sledge hammer and Arnold Schwartzenegger to get them off - a thin layer of anti-sieze on the wheel face helped a lot.
Dissimilar metals can corrode badly. Before I figured that out, my Landcruiser aluminum rear wheels would weld (corrode) themselves on to the point where it took an 8' fence post, a sledge hammer and Arnold Schwartzenegger to get them off - a thin layer of anti-sieze on the wheel face helped a lot.
The following users liked this post:
DuhCar (02-17-2015)
#45
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Also, nitrogen is largely pointless for most use. The theory is that the gas is inert, so is less prone to expansion as the tires heat up, so theoretically you get more consistent pressure. But you really only get serious heat in the tires when raving - most forms of street use don't generate big heat levels.
#46
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I did find it amusing how we shifted from a simple accessory to politics (surely not my intention) to chemistry but shows you how fascinating the world and its people - including those on this Forum - is/are. Keep em flying (and that includes you Lance).
#47
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
+1. Track use maybe, street use not so important. Air is 78% nitrogen anyway. Primary value is that pure N2 contains no water vapor and permeates rubber at a slower rate than O2 containing air by about 33%. Here's a full discussion: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...150217173220:s
It is most noticeable on vehicles with a spare tire that sits for a couple of years, yet the pressure remains quite constant.
Lawrence.
#48
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are your valve stems all metal (as opposed to. Ones with a rubber segment), and do the have a locking nut right at the base where the exit out of the wheel? If so, they are the ones used for tire pressure monitoring.
Also, nitrogen is largely pointless for most use. The theory is that the gas is inert, so is less prone to expansion as the tires heat up, so theoretically you get more consistent pressure. But you really only get serious heat in the tires when raving - most forms of street use don't generate big heat levels.
Also, nitrogen is largely pointless for most use. The theory is that the gas is inert, so is less prone to expansion as the tires heat up, so theoretically you get more consistent pressure. But you really only get serious heat in the tires when raving - most forms of street use don't generate big heat levels.
Will it cause any harm to use the valve stem caps that do not completely cover the stems? I had already purchased the British flag and "R" caps but they only cover the top half of the valve stem and not the lower part.
On a separate note, it appears my car has wheel locks installed? I did not order them but when connecting the battery tender I found the package they came in and, I suppose, the tool for removing them. I have never had, nor thought I needed, wheel locks and worry that if I have a flat they will be difficult to remove?
Last edited by Lovemonet; 02-18-2015 at 05:16 AM. Reason: Add to
#49
#50
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
But I thought all F-Types have tire pressure monitoring but they do not all seem to have the long valve stems?
Will it cause any harm to use the valve stem caps that do not completely cover the stems? I had already purchased the British flag and "R" caps but they only cover the top half of the valve stem and not the lower part.
On a separate note, it appears my car has wheel locks installed? I did not order them but when connecting the battery tender I found the package they came in and, I suppose, the tool for removing them. I have never had, nor thought I needed, wheel locks and worry that if I have a flat they will be difficult to remove?
Will it cause any harm to use the valve stem caps that do not completely cover the stems? I had already purchased the British flag and "R" caps but they only cover the top half of the valve stem and not the lower part.
On a separate note, it appears my car has wheel locks installed? I did not order them but when connecting the battery tender I found the package they came in and, I suppose, the tool for removing them. I have never had, nor thought I needed, wheel locks and worry that if I have a flat they will be difficult to remove?
Do you mean wheel lock nuts (the ones that attach your wheel to the hub, not the ones at the valve stem base)? No, they are no more difficult to remove than normal wheel nuts. And they are a very good idea for piece of mind!
No, I don't believe using dust caps that only partially cover the stem should be a problem. Their point is just to stop foreign matter getting in to the end of the valve, causing a leak. They don't do anything to actually seal in air.
The following users liked this post:
Lovemonet (02-19-2015)
#51
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
On a separate note, it appears my car has wheel locks installed? I did not order them but when connecting the battery tender I found the package they came in and, I suppose, the tool for removing them. I have never had, nor thought I needed, wheel locks and worry that if I have a flat they will be difficult to remove?
If your dealer installed them, they should have left you with the 4 lugs they took off. I've had them come installed on new cars, and the dealer left the std. lugs in the packaging, with the removal key.
I'd call your dealer GM, explain they owe you 4 lugs, which you would like to be mailed to you.
P.S. I wouldn't worry about your valve stem issue.
#52
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm tempted, but the last time I put metal valve covers on they corroded onto the valve stem. I got the bright idea to take one off with a pair of pliers--got the privilege of standing there watching my tire deflate in about 30 seconds after I snapped the tip off. ![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Live and learn.
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Live and learn.
The Jaguar OEM valve covers are not metal and will not seize.
#53
#54
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
On a separate note, it appears my car has wheel locks installed? I did not order them but when connecting the battery tender I found the package they came in and, I suppose, the tool for removing them. I have never had, nor thought I needed, wheel locks and worry that if I have a flat they will be difficult to remove?
As Foosh said, replace with the regular lug nuts.
The following users liked this post:
Lovemonet (02-19-2015)
#55
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
my car came with it installed. I had the dealer remove them and put the regulars back on for the same reason...PITA in case key is lost, service guy accidentally tries to remove it and damages it. Never heard of wheels getting stolen that were saved by lock.
The following users liked this post:
Lovemonet (02-19-2015)
#56
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You got that one from Yogi Berra, didn't you?
![Icon Lol](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Any wheels getting stolen weren't saved by anything....
Seriously though, from a statistical observation standpoint, wouldn't your data be skewed? You would only be aware of the failures, but none of the successes of wheel locks. I'm not a proponent. I think they are a PITA as well but they do present at least somewhat of a theft deterrent.
#57
#58
#59
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
#60
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Actually, quite the contrary. Unless the torque can be smoothly applied to a free spinning bolt or nut, you can't be certain of the exact preload of the fastener. The tightness relies on the deflection of the threads rather than on sliding friction. Therefore the fastener has to be torqued within the specific range to flex the thread without permanently deforming the thread.