Low Battery please start engine/ battery drain issue 2015 V6S
#21
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Chuckster (09-03-2024)
#22
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Found on the Internet, so it must be true…
That’s potentially useful in a convertible. I’ll have to try it.
What is double locking?
Double-locking is an additional anti-theft device and can only be activated if the ignition is switched off and the driver's door is fully closed. Double locking ensures that opening the vehicle from the inside (e. g. after glass breakage) is no longer possible.
Double-locking is an additional anti-theft device and can only be activated if the ignition is switched off and the driver's door is fully closed. Double locking ensures that opening the vehicle from the inside (e. g. after glass breakage) is no longer possible.
That’s potentially useful in a convertible. I’ll have to try it.
Last edited by DJS; 09-03-2024 at 08:05 PM.
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Pcar2Jag (09-03-2024)
#23
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Well, it can't hurt to try the double locking test on US Jags.
I was able to jump start the car. Oddly, as soon as I connected my battery charger to the car I got that low battery warning. When the car is running, my charger reads 12V and 95% charged. When I turn it off, the engine makes clicking noises I've never heard before and it is quite audible.
I will leave the car connected to the charger overnight and hope for the best in the morning. I just hope it's not the alternator.
I was able to jump start the car. Oddly, as soon as I connected my battery charger to the car I got that low battery warning. When the car is running, my charger reads 12V and 95% charged. When I turn it off, the engine makes clicking noises I've never heard before and it is quite audible.
I will leave the car connected to the charger overnight and hope for the best in the morning. I just hope it's not the alternator.
#24
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#27
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I'm going to add to this thread since I found it while trying to diagnose my battery draining issues. I have a 2017 R, in case anyone needs that info.
I recently bought a new AGM battery since my original battery was about 7 years old and my car was completely dead. Had to get a locksmith to get me into the car so I could pop the hood and boot. I installed the new battery and for the first couple of days, everything seemed fine. Then I got the dreaded low battery message. I thought that was strange, and so I plugged in my OBD2 scanner tool and checked for codes, then cleared them out. Now I'm thinking I must have done something "stupid" to make the car drain the battery, although I don't know what that would be.
Anyway, this locksmith is coming back and will probably become my best friend if I don't get this fixed. I suppose I will have to start 1) connecting a battery tender each night, 2) take it to the JLR shop and get bent over, or 3) take it to an Indy shop for a diagnosis.
Just thought I would post my experiences and keep this thread alive for the next "victim" of a draining battery.
Side note: I never knew about the double locking "trick" which is odd that something so simple could have a huge impact on the car.
I recently bought a new AGM battery since my original battery was about 7 years old and my car was completely dead. Had to get a locksmith to get me into the car so I could pop the hood and boot. I installed the new battery and for the first couple of days, everything seemed fine. Then I got the dreaded low battery message. I thought that was strange, and so I plugged in my OBD2 scanner tool and checked for codes, then cleared them out. Now I'm thinking I must have done something "stupid" to make the car drain the battery, although I don't know what that would be.
Anyway, this locksmith is coming back and will probably become my best friend if I don't get this fixed. I suppose I will have to start 1) connecting a battery tender each night, 2) take it to the JLR shop and get bent over, or 3) take it to an Indy shop for a diagnosis.
Just thought I would post my experiences and keep this thread alive for the next "victim" of a draining battery.
Side note: I never knew about the double locking "trick" which is odd that something so simple could have a huge impact on the car.
#28
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Same question. When the ODBII drain hit my car, I just popped out the metal key from inside the fob and opened the driver's door.
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#30
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I'm reading 'plugged in ODBII scanner" and "draining battery" and I have to think they are related. The best kept secret from Jaguar is if an ODBII session is not exited in the exact right way (I don't know what the right way is), the car will stay in a live mode that will drain the battery. This has happened to me twice, both caused by the dealer. A simple reset by undoing the negative battery terminal lead for about a minute will clear the issue.
See above.
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#33
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It's the physical metal key inside the fob that we are talking about. You pop open the fob, remove the metal key, then pull the door handle open to expose the keyhole, insert the key, turn it and you're in the ca.
#34
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Apparently, just as hard as the physical key doesn't require any power whatsoever. It's an old school key. Insert, turn, open. Imagine you're in 1977 and you want to unlock the door on your sweet Trans Am, but the battery is completely dead. Nothing to worry, you just insert the key in the keyhole, turn it and then open the door. It's the same darn thing. I have quite literally unlocked my F-Type with a completely dead batter by bypassing anything electric and using the physical metal key that is inside the fob.
#35
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Obviously, the start part won't work, but getting it the door will.
https://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/doc...93645/G1893602
Last edited by eeeeek; 09-05-2024 at 10:43 AM.
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#37
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Boom! Thank you. I thought I was losing my mind thinking I had forgotten to mention the physical, metal key. I have 2 fobs, and neither metal key works. Therefore, I believe that JLR doesn't do the greatest job of tracking these metal keys with the fob. I also learned that JLR HQ may or may not have the original barrel for the keys. What else will JLR do to fail the masses? Make all their cars electric? Oh, wait...
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Carbuff2 (09-07-2024)