Low Battery - still happening after battery re-set
#21
Yes, exactly...how can the battery measure as "good" when and if the alternator is faulty?
#22
Washing the car is the final step in my dealer's servicing- regardless of what service they do - except that I REFUSE to have them wash the car for all the reasons others imply. The fewer times the paint is touched, the better the finish remains.
The following users liked this post:
hcardle (08-22-2023)
#23
Just to get the record straight, They said that I was in a rush - but I never said that.
Now, either it's decided to play games with me, or it fixed itself. Three days ago, the Hazard Light stopped being on all the time (I'd been checking it several times a day). I haven't seen the Low Battery warning message since then, so ... it fixed itself?
Who's a good car?
Yes You Are!
Good Car! <Jag wags tail>
Or maybe it's setting me up...
Now, either it's decided to play games with me, or it fixed itself. Three days ago, the Hazard Light stopped being on all the time (I'd been checking it several times a day). I haven't seen the Low Battery warning message since then, so ... it fixed itself?
Who's a good car?
Yes You Are!
Good Car! <Jag wags tail>
Or maybe it's setting me up...
The following users liked this post:
Brutal (11-19-2018)
#24
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,463
Received 3,226 Likes
on
2,380 Posts
Just to get the record straight, They said that I was in a rush - but I never said that.
Now, either it's decided to play games with me, or it fixed itself. Three days ago, the Hazard Light stopped being on all the time (I'd been checking it several times a day). I haven't seen the Low Battery warning message since then, so ... it fixed itself?
Who's a good car?
Yes You Are!
Good Car! <Jag wags tail>
Or maybe it's setting me up...
Now, either it's decided to play games with me, or it fixed itself. Three days ago, the Hazard Light stopped being on all the time (I'd been checking it several times a day). I haven't seen the Low Battery warning message since then, so ... it fixed itself?
Who's a good car?
Yes You Are!
Good Car! <Jag wags tail>
Or maybe it's setting me up...
#25
#26
#27
I thought maybe it started happening because of the cold, but I have a feeling it may be due to the state inspection that I had done recently which involves reading codes through the OBD port.
I'd rather not have to do the battery disconnect every year after getting an inspection... Is there any sort of fix that can be applied?
As an aside, the mirrors no longer fold in when the car is locked. I knew I would have to do the window reset, but this came as a surprise as I was told elsewhere that the only way to prevent the mirrors from folding in was to have it permanently disabled by a service tech.
I'd rather not have to do the battery disconnect every year after getting an inspection... Is there any sort of fix that can be applied?
As an aside, the mirrors no longer fold in when the car is locked. I knew I would have to do the window reset, but this came as a surprise as I was told elsewhere that the only way to prevent the mirrors from folding in was to have it permanently disabled by a service tech.
No, there's an issue with some cars where they don't go to sleep properly after an OBD device was connected, if it was disconnected in software properly at the end of the session. The solution is to disconnect the battery for a brief period, then reconnect it.
I just stumbled on the recommended procedure when reconnecting the battery. Note that most folks don't do this, other than the last step.
I just stumbled on the recommended procedure when reconnecting the battery. Note that most folks don't do this, other than the last step.
#28
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,192 Likes
on
1,358 Posts
depends on the year and model for how a mirror fold is enabled. But the most common issue with mirrors that all of a sudden wont fold is that one of them is unlocked. How do they get unlocked you ask? EASY, car wash is 1 way, or most often someone bumps the mirror walking by the car and unlocks it. How do you fix? Reset the lock position by either pressing the fold button about the mirror switch, or if you don't have that press and hold both L/R mirror buttons down simultaneously to fold back and they lock then do it again to open and VOILA theyre reset
The following users liked this post:
Carbuff2 (11-19-2018)
#29
I have been having the same issue for over a year. I have brought it to the dealer several times and they always say it is a bad battery. I am on my 3rd battery in about 1.5 years. The first year of owning my car everything was fine, this issue did not start until March of 2018. The car was sitting and not driven for about 5 weeks and upon starting it up I saw the low battery warning message then I got the battery replaced only for the message to reaper within a few months and going through the process of a new battery again. I got the battery replaced a third time a few weeks ago and have not seen the message yet. I am worried that this will just happen again. Is there something that can be done about this?
#30
And it will continue to happen until you charge the battery fully, and I mean fully. A new battery is almost never fully charged. The pattern of use that your message suggests indicates that your batteries have never been fully charged - short and infrequent use results in constantly decreasing battery charge.
Solution: charge the battery fully and buy a battery maintainer (CTEK being the favoured brand by many); install it and use it when the car is not in daily service.
Result: an end to battery issues.
Solution: charge the battery fully and buy a battery maintainer (CTEK being the favoured brand by many); install it and use it when the car is not in daily service.
Result: an end to battery issues.
Last edited by sov211; 12-16-2019 at 01:24 AM.
#31
I have been having the same issue for over a year. I have brought it to the dealer several times and they always say it is a bad battery. I am on my 3rd battery in about 1.5 years. The first year of owning my car everything was fine, this issue did not start until March of 2018. The car was sitting and not driven for about 5 weeks and upon starting it up I saw the low battery warning message then I got the battery replaced only for the message to reaper within a few months and going through the process of a new battery again. I got the battery replaced a third time a few weeks ago and have not seen the message yet. I am worried that this will just happen again. Is there something that can be done about this?
Spring winding ceiling or wall mount extension cord:
Battery Tender for AGM batteries (fits underneath trucnk floor np):
I don't think alternators are designed for 12.8V AGM batteries. So the battery falls into in a partly depleted state and dies relatively quickly unless you either take very long drives all the time, or supplement the charge every so often to get a finishing charge into them. The tender above is a four stage charger for AGM.
#32
It's not ideal but most exotics cars require a battery tender. I put my entire tender, including the cord with just the plug sticking out, under the trunk floor right next to the battery. Then I pull an extension cord down from my garage ceiling and run it into the trunk and plug it in with the trunk fully up while charging, so I don't forget and try to drive off with it plugged in. I plug it in about every two weeks, no more battery issues.
Spring winding ceiling or wall mount extension cord: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Battery Tender for AGM batteries (fits underneath trucnk floor np): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't think alternators are designed for 12.8V AGM batteries. So the battery falls into in a partly depleted state and dies relatively quickly unless you either take very long drives all the time, or supplement the charge every so often to get a finishing charge into them. The tender above is a four stage charger for AGM.
Spring winding ceiling or wall mount extension cord: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Battery Tender for AGM batteries (fits underneath trucnk floor np): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't think alternators are designed for 12.8V AGM batteries. So the battery falls into in a partly depleted state and dies relatively quickly unless you either take very long drives all the time, or supplement the charge every so often to get a finishing charge into them. The tender above is a four stage charger for AGM.
#34
And it will continue to happen until you charge the battery fully, and I mean fully. A new battery is almost never fully charged. The pattern of use that your message suggests indicates that your batteries have never been fully charged - short and infrequent use results in descreasing battery charge.
solution: charge the battery fully and buy a battery maintainer (CTEK being the favoured brand by many), install it and use it when the car is not in daily service.
Result: an end to battery issues.
solution: charge the battery fully and buy a battery maintainer (CTEK being the favoured brand by many), install it and use it when the car is not in daily service.
Result: an end to battery issues.
#35
#36
No- there are a few reasons its not the best idea to use the 750milliamp i.e not even a goddamn full amp of power.
What does it tell you about the make. its as lowbudget as it gets. Mine is 15amps. or 20x more power.
It also means it does not have any sophisticated algorithm and will reduce your battery life.
At that rate it will take 2 days to charge our batteries- so if you only charge it for a day you will constantly be in deficit and reduce battery lifespan.
#37
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,463
Received 3,226 Likes
on
2,380 Posts
Firstly, see even old-fashioned Harleys have to be kept on a charger- and yet people swear battery charging is unique to Jag. Tesla guys dont complain.
No- there are a few reasons its not the best idea to use the 750milliamp i.e not even a goddamn full amp of power.
What does it tell you about the make. its as lowbudget as it gets. Mine is 15amps. or 20x more power.
It also means it does not have any sophisticated algorithm and will reduce your battery life.
At that rate it will take 2 days to charge our batteries- so if you only charge it for a day you will constantly be in deficit and reduce battery lifespan.
No- there are a few reasons its not the best idea to use the 750milliamp i.e not even a goddamn full amp of power.
What does it tell you about the make. its as lowbudget as it gets. Mine is 15amps. or 20x more power.
It also means it does not have any sophisticated algorithm and will reduce your battery life.
At that rate it will take 2 days to charge our batteries- so if you only charge it for a day you will constantly be in deficit and reduce battery lifespan.
Like you my battery tender is 15 amp.
I use it around once a fortnight on the F-Type and it goes through all 7 stages to "fully charged - maintain" in less than 30 minutes.
#38
Ozzy, I have discovered something huge yesterday.
Wondering if I am the last to discover it.
A battery desulphator.
Basically uses waves to remove tarnish in the way a electrolysis removes rust.
Its ridiculously simple and cost $20. Runs off the battery being desulphated.
Had a ruined battery, that would not hold much charge, brought it back.
Wondering if I am the last to discover it.
A battery desulphator.
Basically uses waves to remove tarnish in the way a electrolysis removes rust.
Its ridiculously simple and cost $20. Runs off the battery being desulphated.
Had a ruined battery, that would not hold much charge, brought it back.
#39
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,463
Received 3,226 Likes
on
2,380 Posts
Ozzy, I have discovered something huge yesterday.
Wondering if I am the last to discover it.
A battery desulphator.
Basically uses waves to remove tarnish in the way a electrolysis removes rust.
Its ridiculously simple and cost $20. Runs off the battery being desulphated.
Had a ruined battery, that would not hold much charge, brought it back.
Wondering if I am the last to discover it.
A battery desulphator.
Basically uses waves to remove tarnish in the way a electrolysis removes rust.
Its ridiculously simple and cost $20. Runs off the battery being desulphated.
Had a ruined battery, that would not hold much charge, brought it back.
Even more funny is that you have called it a "desulphator" and my tender calls it "desulfation", when sulphur is the English spelling and sulfur is the US spelling, so completely back to front!
The following users liked this post:
Queen and Country (12-16-2019)
#40
I find this all very strange. I used the OEM AGM for a couple of years and more recently a lithium for a couple years (the AGM is still in service in my ‘76 Land Cruiser). I’ve never used a trickle charger on the f-type, have had it sit for weeks at time and have never had any problems with starting the car with exception of the early OBD accesses before I was aware of that issue. I am wondering whether the other discharge issues are more prevalent among the V8 than the V6. If so, it could be possible that the V8 doesn’t doesn’t average sufficient revs to keep the battery properly charged. In top gear, the engine speed on my V6 (MT) is 50% higher than on the V8.
Last edited by Unhingd; 12-15-2019 at 11:09 PM.