Lower Coolant Outlet Pipe Replacement Guide
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Lower Coolant Outlet Pipe Replacement Guide
F-Type Coolant Leak and Lower Water Outlet Replacement
For a guide to removal of the supercharger search for my guide on JaguarForums or see the version here https://classicairheads.com/blog/202...r-replacement/
The coolant leak from lower water outlet pipe (y-pipe) is unfortunately quite common. This lower y shaped hard plastic pipe is prone to failure resulting in coolant pooling on the block in the valley between the two banks of cylinders.
This pipe is connected to the upper water outlet pipe (which you can see on top of the engine) via an intermediate section of aluminium pipe with two o-rings.
My y connector failed at the base where it inserts into the block, but the pipe can crack anywhere. It should be noted that the rubber hoses tend not to fail early, just the hard moulded plastic pipes.
In response to the frequent failing, both the lower and the upper outlet pipes have been redesigned- the lower pipe has since been replaced with a slightly stouter version (part # AJ8 13865) and the upper pipe replaced with part # AJ8 13917 and the intermediate pipe has been scrapped completely (the two new pipes simply join together). This is important because if your lower pipe has cracked you will have to replace both the lower and upper pipes with the new parts (the old upper pipe won’t join to the new lower pipe).
Another site coolant leak is the thin hard plastic overflow piping going from the back of the upper water outlet pipe back to the coolant reservoir. In my 5 year old car these were so brittle they broke upon handling. They may have been leaking already. Replacement part is # T2R5910
Unfortunately replacing a relatively cheap coolant pipe is made very difficult by its location- under the supercharger. To access the lower pipe the supercharger needs to be removed - see my other guide for this procedure.
Before you replace the lower pipe be sure to put your finger into the block coolant holes and feel around for any small pieces of broken pipe that might be sitting there. You don’t want those going through your coolant ways.
Some useful torque settings- the lower pipe screws into the block are 13Nm and the upper pipe screws are 10Nm.
Note also- for some reason one of the tabs on the new upper pipe is much thinner so the old screw wont work- you need a shorter (25mm) M8 bolt.
After putting everything back together fill the system to the max fill line in the reservoir using a RED/ORANGE coolant which meets the standard M97B44-D ( i used generic it's cheaper than oem)
Then run the engine with the heater on full blast until warm air comes out of the vents. This will bleed the system. Turn off the engine and let cool a little. The level of coolant will have gone down as bubbles came out of the system so top up again. Repeat this process again until the level stops dropping.
For a guide to removal of the supercharger search for my guide on JaguarForums or see the version here https://classicairheads.com/blog/202...r-replacement/
The coolant leak from lower water outlet pipe (y-pipe) is unfortunately quite common. This lower y shaped hard plastic pipe is prone to failure resulting in coolant pooling on the block in the valley between the two banks of cylinders.
This pipe is connected to the upper water outlet pipe (which you can see on top of the engine) via an intermediate section of aluminium pipe with two o-rings.
My y connector failed at the base where it inserts into the block, but the pipe can crack anywhere. It should be noted that the rubber hoses tend not to fail early, just the hard moulded plastic pipes.
In response to the frequent failing, both the lower and the upper outlet pipes have been redesigned- the lower pipe has since been replaced with a slightly stouter version (part # AJ8 13865) and the upper pipe replaced with part # AJ8 13917 and the intermediate pipe has been scrapped completely (the two new pipes simply join together). This is important because if your lower pipe has cracked you will have to replace both the lower and upper pipes with the new parts (the old upper pipe won’t join to the new lower pipe).
Another site coolant leak is the thin hard plastic overflow piping going from the back of the upper water outlet pipe back to the coolant reservoir. In my 5 year old car these were so brittle they broke upon handling. They may have been leaking already. Replacement part is # T2R5910
Unfortunately replacing a relatively cheap coolant pipe is made very difficult by its location- under the supercharger. To access the lower pipe the supercharger needs to be removed - see my other guide for this procedure.
Before you replace the lower pipe be sure to put your finger into the block coolant holes and feel around for any small pieces of broken pipe that might be sitting there. You don’t want those going through your coolant ways.
Some useful torque settings- the lower pipe screws into the block are 13Nm and the upper pipe screws are 10Nm.
Note also- for some reason one of the tabs on the new upper pipe is much thinner so the old screw wont work- you need a shorter (25mm) M8 bolt.
After putting everything back together fill the system to the max fill line in the reservoir using a RED/ORANGE coolant which meets the standard M97B44-D ( i used generic it's cheaper than oem)
Then run the engine with the heater on full blast until warm air comes out of the vents. This will bleed the system. Turn off the engine and let cool a little. The level of coolant will have gone down as bubbles came out of the system so top up again. Repeat this process again until the level stops dropping.
Last edited by adent; 12-29-2020 at 12:30 AM.
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Hi,
any idea when they started using the modified Y-piece? Any VIN or production date? I recon the issue also affects engines that were put into other models, such as the XF or XJ. Apparently the issue was there already in the XK.
My F-Type R was build in July 2016 and I seriously consider changing the Y-piece for precaution.
thanks
chris
any idea when they started using the modified Y-piece? Any VIN or production date? I recon the issue also affects engines that were put into other models, such as the XF or XJ. Apparently the issue was there already in the XK.
My F-Type R was build in July 2016 and I seriously consider changing the Y-piece for precaution.
thanks
chris
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#8
Why did they replace the C2z28536? Mine just failed and the car is down for the moment. With some research I found OEMparts and ordered this piece for a Whopping $37.
I have the “new” 2 pipe system but haven’t installed due to Jaguar talking about $1700 for installation after I bought em for $140.
the older model cost $37 and I’m pretty sure my guy will install it for $40..
I have the “new” 2 pipe system but haven’t installed due to Jaguar talking about $1700 for installation after I bought em for $140.
the older model cost $37 and I’m pretty sure my guy will install it for $40..
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Ken Dreger (06-04-2023)
#9
Why did they replace the C2z28536? Mine just failed and the car is down for the moment. With some research I found OEMparts and ordered this piece for a Whopping $37.
I have the “new” 2 pipe system but haven’t installed due to Jaguar talking about $1700 for installation after I bought em for $140.
the older model cost $37 and I’m pretty sure my guy will install it for $40..
I have the “new” 2 pipe system but haven’t installed due to Jaguar talking about $1700 for installation after I bought em for $140.
the older model cost $37 and I’m pretty sure my guy will install it for $40..
Nonetheless, the installation is essentially the same for either version. You’ll need to remove the supercharger regardless, which is where the majority of cost comes. Not too difficult with the write up, just takes time and small hands
#10
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Ken Dreger (06-04-2023)
#11
Both the redesigned and the old version have upper and lower portions. The lower one is more likely to fail. If your certain it’s only the upper part then go for it. Just don’t be surprised if at some point the lower portion fails.
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I guess you should be able to see whether you're affected by looking at the shape of the pieces. I guess the old parts are the ones with the flat edges along the pipes in the pic above (correct me if I'm wrong though!).
I had a MY14 XF with the AJ126 engine previously and had this job done. If I recall correctly it was something like 6-7 hours of labour because the supercharger had to be removed. Got a bit pricey being done by an offical JLR dealer. :/ And then some time after that the water pump went which meant another supercharger off job. :/ So it's good to do it all once you're in there.
I had a MY14 XF with the AJ126 engine previously and had this job done. If I recall correctly it was something like 6-7 hours of labour because the supercharger had to be removed. Got a bit pricey being done by an offical JLR dealer. :/ And then some time after that the water pump went which meant another supercharger off job. :/ So it's good to do it all once you're in there.
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Mines the 2015 model. Had it diagnosed so it’s for sure the upper portion that’s failing. That and I can see the coolant coming out from there. Didn’t know both had lower portions. Probably best to have the whole thing replaced at the same time to avoid removing SC twice :/
Does this sound like"Shipwrights disease"?
"Shipwrights Disease"
Goes something like this:
Sailor owns boat.
Boat has burned out light in galley.
Sailor decides to change bulb.
Sailor notices socket is corroded, decides to change socket.
Sailor notices wiring frayed while trying to change socket.
Sailor decides to change wiring.
Sailor notices galley ceiling slats are rotted while changing the
wire.
Sailor decides galley ceiling slats need changing.
Sailor notices .
this goes on and on and on and on and pretty soon, Sailor is
undertaking a
major renovation of his boat because of a burned out lightbulb.
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Ken Dreger (06-04-2023)
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