Greetings,

The few past months I have been doing some research specifically on the 2016 and up f type r solely for its awd capabilities and being a v8. I’ve watched a dozen or so YouTube vids of personal experiences with the car and I’m in love. I’m coming from a Lexus rcf and that was a blast to drive but wanting something with a v8 and awd and it lead me to the f type r.



This will be a dedicated rally cruise car with some daily drives to work every now and then. I did notice a few things after doing some research that I would like someone to shed light on. These include the car battery dying quickly , catalytic converters failing early, rear diff has to be serviced early and closely watched if you push the car hard, water pump failing early, supercharge coupling loosening, fuel injectors failing, coolant y pipe blowing off, and coolant leaks. Since I’m only looking for the awd f type r spec vehicles what would be a good pickup in terms of mileage with these vehicles? Looking to pick up a used one before next summer. Thanks in advance.

 

The battery needs to be hooked to a charger if it isn't used often. I put on about 5k/year and need mine plugged when not in use. I haven't heard anything really with a water pump and know other owners with 50k and still the original water pump. Others can chime in and state their experience. The rear diff had a seal issue but most of us got that covered under warranty and for most of us that issue was resolved. The only other issue is the older style coolant pipes which could be replaced if not already for a newer better design. I have a 2016 R and still have the original coolant pipes.

 

Sounds as if you are going to be a busy guy researching all of these topics which are discussed in great detail within this forum.

Good luck!

 

Not bad . I’ll continue to dive into this forum some more . I saw another Jaguar f type forum but looks as if this one is the go to spot and active .

 

Thanks. I’ll start to dive into this forum. I did notice another Jaguar f type forum but this seems to be the “active” spot. In terms of “used” f type r’s what would be considered a high mileage one in your opinion ?

 

You need to go drive one. Take it home for the weekend. Then come back and tell us what you think.

 

The car battery dying quickly is due to an OBD device being disconnected without shutting the sesion down properly - usually after a smog test. The telltale is that the light in the hazards switch doesn't extinguish within about 15 minutes of locking the car. Quick battery disconnect is the workaround for that. As has been said, these cars like full voltage for optimum running, although I generally do short journeys and haven't found it necessary to keep it on a battery maintainer, just an overnight charge once every few months seems to be fine for me.

But on service history and condition, mileage isn't that much of an issue these days, though most will be pretty low, I'd expect.

Go drive one - we know what you'll think! :-)

 

Thats the plan when I get a chance. I’m sure Ill want to jump the gun and get it now but being discipline and patient for now

 

Thats the plan when I get a chance. I’ve seen a few in my area in my budget so that’s definitely on the to do list. Planning on keeping the car if all goes well. Thanks

 

I've proactively replaced the coolant pipes. My headliner dropped twice - once under warranty and once out of warranty - Jag wouldn't do squat. The suspension strut bushing material essentially starts crumbling (mine recently). Parts not cheap, then labor to replace. I still love the car, but am starting to get tired of stuff that is bad design. I have a VAP tune and both pulleys swapped. It is very potent, on and off the track.

 

Thats what I’m trying to do. Just be proactive and get to things before they start failing to avoid any headaches when I do get one. Still not bad at all for what you are getting in this price range. I see the vap tune is the go to for the f type r so I’ll start to look at that.

 

did you go with this one for replacement of the coolant y pipes
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22489388594...53.m1438.l2649

 

Not quite. Yes to Euro Amp, but a slightly different description (" Jaguar Land Rover Cooling System Upgrade Kit 3.0L V6 5.0 V8 Supercharged Engine"). the kit I got also came with a small brass angled fitting to replace one of the other plastic pieces and a plug. I believe my local mechanic who did the work affirmed they used the brass angled fitting. My car is a 2016 if that helps. In addition, as I recall there were 2 different O-ring sizes supplied in my kit - one would not fit, the other went in as it should (maybe some other Land Rovers use the different O-rings).

They still have that one listed on the website, SKU 224991486556, same price as I paid - $71.55.

https://euro-amp.com/collections/jag...charged-engine

 

Cool beans. I saw they offer another kit as well for extra piece of mind with some extras thrown in as well. For what’s it worth when I do get one this will definitely be the first mod.

https://euro-amp.com/collections/jag...charged-engine

 

Had the water pump not been so expensive I may have changed it as well. With only 27K miles and no issues, I took (IMHO) a small gamble. No issues.

 

Paid off for you in the long run. My honest guess would be anything over 50k miles especially buying used those coolant hose components should be thoroughly inspected. Did you upgrade the catalytic converters on your car? I would rather knock that out as soon as possible as well when I do get one. Preventative maintenance I guess ….

 

New owner here of a 2017 SVR. Since I'll eventually have to get it smogged and a lot of smog techs aren't that knowledgeable can you tell me what the procedure is for shutting the session down properly and also the quick battery disconnect? And what is the procedure for a quick battery disconnect?

 

New owner here of a 2017 SVR. Since I'll eventually have to get it smogged and a lot of smog techs aren't that knowledgeable (as you can probably tell I'm not that knowledgable either) can you tell me what the procedure is for shutting the session down properly and also the quick battery disconnect? And what is the procedure for a quick battery disconnect?

 

Quick battery disconnect is to remove one fo the leads from the battery terminal and wait a few seconds (15-30 to allow module power to discharge?) and then reconnect. When the battery is disconnected do not shut the trunk lid! You'll lose your computer settings and may have to reset the windows, details should be in your car's handbook.

I'm in the UK so have no experience of smog testers, but I'm not sure if there is a correct way to shut down from their device. I've never had the issue with dealers or my independent.

 

Mine (don't remember how many or which one(s)) was/were replaced under warranty in 2017. This invokes an interesting story that ultimately speaks well of VAP. I was (at the time) entertaining VAP tune only (no pulleys). They have a time sensitive satisfaction warranty. I was on more of a budget then, so I didn't wish to buy the pulley at that time. I scheduled some dyno pulls to do before and after tune results to compare. The results of the dyno pulls were only 10 - 15 ft. lbs. of torque difference. I was not very impressed. As a result, the emails started going back and forth.

Their position was there was something wrong with my car. Right off the bat Stuart noted very rich conditions after the flash. Chris observed that the fuel curve was too fat - he concluded that the denso system was going fat to possibly protect a Cat that was going high on temperature. He then thought perhaps their cooling fan (external to the car blowing on the radiator) was inadequate. Ultimately I was not satisfied, it was an amicable situation, and they refunded me my money. They had even offered to let me keep the tune a bit longer to see if it would sort out and get better, so my buddy and I devised some tests to run. They were controlled higher gear full throttle pulls on a lonely road to look for improvements. Yes improvements were there, but not very large. After a few weeks I rang the bell, sent the gear back to VAP and collected my refund. VAP was tremendously professional about it, working with us to objectively review the situation.

About 6 weeks after the initial dyno pulls, I started getting check engine codes. After Jag got the car and did the warranty repairs - at least 2 02 sensors were replaced, and as I recall 1 cat(?). All along, VAP was correct - I happened to install the tune at a time where I had some bad parts that screwed up the results.

I will likely not proactively replace Cats. That's a huge cost that I don't wish to incur voluntarily. My car is now more than 8 years after the in-service date, so they are no longer warranted. I'll run them to failure, then I may simply gut them. We'll see. Sorry for the long answer to the simple question, but I think highly of VAP and how they handled my situation and thought the topic was a good reason to talk about it.