F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards
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  #21  
Old 11-03-2023 | 06:03 PM
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Easiest, quickest and best way to disconnect the battery is to disconnect the earth/ground lead (which connects to the negative battery terminal) from where it bolts to the floor of the trunk/boot. Just follow the thick black cable from the negative battery terminal, 13 mm nut IIRC. Waaaay easier than stuffing about with an actual battery terminal connection!
 
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  #22  
Old 11-04-2023 | 11:01 AM
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Thank you and scm - love the forum and the knowledge I get from the members.
 
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  #23  
Old 11-13-2023 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by inmanlanier
Mine (don't remember how many or which one(s)) was/were replaced under warranty in 2017. This invokes an interesting story that ultimately speaks well of VAP. I was (at the time) entertaining VAP tune only (no pulleys). They have a time sensitive satisfaction warranty. I was on more of a budget then, so I didn't wish to buy the pulley at that time. I scheduled some dyno pulls to do before and after tune results to compare. The results of the dyno pulls were only 10 - 15 ft. lbs. of torque difference. I was not very impressed. As a result, the emails started going back and forth.

Their position was there was something wrong with my car. Right off the bat Stuart noted very rich conditions after the flash. Chris observed that the fuel curve was too fat - he concluded that the denso system was going fat to possibly protect a Cat that was going high on temperature. He then thought perhaps their cooling fan (external to the car blowing on the radiator) was inadequate. Ultimately I was not satisfied, it was an amicable situation, and they refunded me my money. They had even offered to let me keep the tune a bit longer to see if it would sort out and get better, so my buddy and I devised some tests to run. They were controlled higher gear full throttle pulls on a lonely road to look for improvements. Yes improvements were there, but not very large. After a few weeks I rang the bell, sent the gear back to VAP and collected my refund. VAP was tremendously professional about it, working with us to objectively review the situation.

About 6 weeks after the initial dyno pulls, I started getting check engine codes. After Jag got the car and did the warranty repairs - at least 2 02 sensors were replaced, and as I recall 1 cat(?). All along, VAP was correct - I happened to install the tune at a time where I had some bad parts that screwed up the results.

I will likely not proactively replace Cats. That's a huge cost that I don't wish to incur voluntarily. My car is now more than 8 years after the in-service date, so they are no longer warranted. I'll run them to failure, then I may simply gut them. We'll see. Sorry for the long answer to the simple question, but I think highly of VAP and how they handled my situation and thought the topic was a good reason to talk about it.
Thanks for the detailed write up my guy. That’s misfortunate that problems started to arise but glad you got it sorted out. In terms of your “cats” when ppl do decide to gut them is that a cost alternative choice as opposed to replacing the cats? If gutting them is an option with no downside I would rather do that sooner than later as preventative maintenance.
 
  #24  
Old 11-13-2023 | 11:29 AM
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Chuckster, there isn't a proper shutdown procedure for the OBD system when the "SMOG' test is being done. The OBD scanner is just unplugged thereby leaving the session open. In this instance, do the battery disconnect to reset the system. As for using an OBD scanner/reader, you need to make sure it is one of the units that have the proper Jaguar software so that it will shut the session down properly. Most scanners do not have the right software as I found out. I had quite a few people analyze my Jaguar before I figured out that their scanners were the problem. If you research on this forum about scanners, you will see which one to get. I would tell you which one I got, but I can't remember right now. If you are not tech savvy, then just do the battery disconnect.. LOL

Good luck. I just bought my 2017 SVR in June so I'm still learning as well.
 
  #25  
Old 11-13-2023 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jibricb
Since I’m only looking for the awd f type r spec vehicles what would be a good pickup in terms of mileage with these vehicles?
No-one has addressed this question yet?
What are the long term prospects of an F-Type R post 100,000 miles?
If Jibricb purchase a 60,000+ miles car is it going to cause issues in 5 years time at 110,000 miles?
 
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  #26  
Old 11-13-2023 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by clarets
No-one has addressed this question yet?
What are the long term prospects of an F-Type R post 100,000 miles?
If Jibricb purchase a 60,000+ miles car is it going to cause issues in 5 years time at 110,000 miles?
Hopefully not knock on wood lol. But yes curious to see how these beasts age over time of course with proper maintenance at the least.
 
  #27  
Old 11-13-2023 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jibricb
Hopefully not knock on wood lol. But yes curious to see how these beasts age over time of course with proper maintenance at the least.
Best advice I can give is change the engine oil a LOT more often than the scheduled 12 months or 16,000 miles whichever comes first.
Also think about upgrading the crappy plastic coolant system pipes to the metal kit.
Do these two things and you should have trouble free motoring to well over 100k miles.
 
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  #28  
Old 11-13-2023 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
Best advice I can give is change the engine oil a LOT more often than the scheduled 12 months or 16,000 miles whichever comes first.
Also think about upgrading the crappy plastic coolant system pipes to the metal kit.
Do these two things and you should have trouble free motoring to well over 100k miles.
lol 4-5k has always been my normal engine oil change. Jaguar can’t be serious about the engine oil change cycle. Just taking money from ppl smh. And yep right on par definitely the first mod I had game planned with the coolant system piping. Researched alot about that plastic coolant piping and how to overcome it . As far as the cats if you didn’t want to upgrade them and just gut them any cons to just gutting them ?
 
  #29  
Old 11-14-2023 | 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by clarets
No-one has addressed this question yet?
What are the long term prospects of an F-Type R post 100,000 miles?
If Jibricb purchase a 60,000+ miles car is it going to cause issues in 5 years time at 110,000 miles?
I purchased my 2018 F-Type R AWD in Dec. 2022 as a CPO from a dealership in Newport Beach. The car had 19K miles on it, had about 6 months left of factory warranty left on it with another year of CPO warranty to begin after the OEM 5 year warranty ended (CPO warranty isn't quite as complete as the factory 5 year warranty but covers the major issues quite well). The CarFax was clean and showed the car had spent its life as a weekend warrior, always garaged when stored and serviced at the dealership with no major issues. The car was absolutely loaded with almost every feature offered by Jaguar, including the suede headliner, black pack trim, parking monitors, cross traffic and blind spot monitoring, performance seats, extended leather, 770w meridian surround sound system, and didn't have a single scratch on the car -- and even came with PPF installed on the front half of the car. I think the only thing missing was the Climate 2 option (I have the Climate 1 option). The car was spec'd perfectly for my taste, came in the right color (Corris Gray) for me, and would have been exactly what I would have ordered for myself if buying new from the dealership. It was a rare and exceptional find for my taste.

I found the car that was perfect for me without making any any compromises. The price was a bit high (65K) but getting everything I wanted without having to spend additional funds on upgrades that it already came with was worth it to me. Since the purchase I've added the aluminum cooling hose upgrades, rims and tires, and an original SVR wing and couldn't be happier. I plan to keep this car for a long, long time --perhaps forever. With proper maintenance and taking pro-active measures like upgrading the cooling system, I think the prospects are quite good that this vehicle operates to 100K with minimum issues. I've been fortunate enough to find an independent JLR service center that takes the time to check things like differential /trans fluids and give me an honest opinion and advice of what items need to be changed / serviced, and when. I've learned that the manual isn't the best advice to follow for maintenance schedules and am a firm believer in the importance of proper maintenance. I've already changed the oil and cleaned the injectors with BG44K twice in 5K miles -- which I know is a bit excessive -- but I don't mind spending a bit more for the peace of mind that brings me.

If I were buying a car with 60K miles, I'd be sure to carefully review the service records on the car. I'm sure there are others out there that love these cars as much as we do and are willing to spare no expense to keep them in pristine condition ---- those are the models I would be seeking if I were you. There isn't anything more annoying than someone owning one of these cars that disregards the needs of the car and drives it into the ground. With today's detailed service histories, it shouldn't be to hard to find proper documentation for the car you are considering in order to make an informed buying decision. Good luck with your search, and might I recommend you establish a relationship with a reputable independent service center in your area that can perform a pre-purchase inspection before you buy anything?

_______ Dillweed
 
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  #30  
Old 11-14-2023 | 02:46 AM
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Yep, to follow up on Dillweed's comments, the one thing I forgot as far as maintenance goes is the use of BG 44K or similar.
It won't help the other potentially major issue on the F-Type - carbon build up on the inlet tracts and the backs of the exhaust valves due to GDI - but it does help with a related problem, carbon build up on the fuel injectors. I use BG 44K and Redline SI-1 every six months or so alternating between the two, cheap insurance IMHO.
 
  #31  
Old 11-14-2023 | 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Dillweed
I purchased my 2018 F-Type R AWD in Dec. 2022 as a CPO from a dealership in Newport Beach. The car had 19K miles on it, had about 6 months left of factory warranty left on it with another year of CPO warranty to begin after the OEM 5 year warranty ended (CPO warranty isn't quite as complete as the factory 5 year warranty but covers the major issues quite well). The CarFax was clean and showed the car had spent its life as a weekend warrior, always garaged when stored and serviced at the dealership with no major issues. The car was absolutely loaded with almost every feature offered by Jaguar, including the suede headliner, black pack trim, parking monitors, cross traffic and blind spot monitoring, performance seats, extended leather, 770w meridian surround sound system, and didn't have a single scratch on the car -- and even came with PPF installed on the front half of the car. I think the only thing missing was the Climate 2 option (I have the Climate 1 option). The car was spec'd perfectly for my taste, came in the right color (Corris Gray) for me, and would have been exactly what I would have ordered for myself if buying new from the dealership. It was a rare and exceptional find for my taste.

I found the car that was perfect for me without making any any compromises. The price was a bit high (65K) but getting everything I wanted without having to spend additional funds on upgrades that it already came with was worth it to me. Since the purchase I've added the aluminum cooling hose upgrades, rims and tires, and an original SVR wing and couldn't be happier. I plan to keep this car for a long, long time --perhaps forever. With proper maintenance and taking pro-active measures like upgrading the cooling system, I think the prospects are quite good that this vehicle operates to 100K with minimum issues. I've been fortunate enough to find an independent JLR service center that takes the time to check things like differential /trans fluids and give me an honest opinion and advice of what items need to be changed / serviced, and when. I've learned that the manual isn't the best advice to follow for maintenance schedules and am a firm believer in the importance of proper maintenance. I've already changed the oil and cleaned the injectors with BG44K twice in 5K miles -- which I know is a bit excessive -- but I don't mind spending a bit more for the peace of mind that brings me.

If I were buying a car with 60K miles, I'd be sure to carefully review the service records on the car. I'm sure there are others out there that love these cars as much as we do and are willing to spare no expense to keep them in pristine condition ---- those are the models I would be seeking if I were you. There isn't anything more annoying than someone owning one of these cars that disregards the needs of the car and drives it into the ground. With today's detailed service histories, it shouldn't be to hard to find proper documentation for the car you are considering in order to make an informed buying decision. Good luck with your search, and might I recommend you establish a relationship with a reputable independent service center in your area that can perform a pre-purchase inspection before you buy anything?

_______ Dillweed
Detailed write up and informative. Very much appreciated. My budget is about $50k with some wiggle room. The majority f type r’s I have been looking at are the 2016-2017 models ranging from $42k to $63ish k. These years had some good low mileage as well below 50 k and some even 40 k miles. I’ve learned my lesson making a big purchase like this to always have a pre inspection done even if the service records look good. BG44k is the same fuel system cleaner I was using for my Lexus rcf. The lexus boys loved that stuff and see why now since you guys are talking about it as well. Stuff is golden. Do you know how much Jaguar charges for the pre inspection or they range depending on where you live? I’m in the Dc Maryland va area. Thanks for Sharing
 
  #32  
Old 11-14-2023 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
Yep, to follow up on Dillweed's comments, the one thing I forgot as far as maintenance goes is the use of BG 44K or similar.
It won't help the other potentially major issue on the F-Type - carbon build up on the inlet tracts and the backs of the exhaust valves due to GDI - but it does help with a related problem, carbon build up on the fuel injectors. I use BG 44K and Redline SI-1 every six months or so alternating between the two, cheap insurance IMHO.
I'm curious -- Im not familiar with Redline SI-1, but google gives me the impression that it is a simiar product to BG44K in function. Why do you use both and what is the reason for alternating between the 2 when you use these products?
 
  #33  
Old 11-14-2023 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Dillweed
I'm curious -- Im not familiar with Redline SI-1, but google gives me the impression that it is a simiar product to BG44K in function. Why do you use both and what is the reason for alternating between the 2 when you use these products?
I researched fuel system cleaners a few years ago and the general consensus (including on this forum) was that the most effective ingredient was polyetheramine (PEA), see this page for example: https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools...dditive-works/
I then checked out the ingredients in all the well known additives including BG 44K, Techron and Redline SI-1 and the Redline came up with the highest concentration of PEA, around 25% IIRC.
But BG 44K, while it appears to contain zero PEA, still gets very good reviews almost everywhere and many JLR dealerships add a bottle as part of every service.
So I decided to use both products alternating between the two.
And I just noticed I made a boo-boo in my earlier post - I said build up on the exhaust valves when I meant on the intake valves!
 

Last edited by OzXFR; 11-14-2023 at 05:10 PM.
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  #34  
Old 11-15-2023 | 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
I researched fuel system cleaners a few years ago and the general consensus (including on this forum) was that the most effective ingredient was polyetheramine (PEA), see this page for example: https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools...dditive-works/
I then checked out the ingredients in all the well known additives including BG 44K, Techron and Redline SI-1 and the Redline came up with the highest concentration of PEA, around 25% IIRC.
But BG 44K, while it appears to contain zero PEA, still gets very good reviews almost everywhere and many JLR dealerships add a bottle as part of every service.
So I decided to use both products alternating between the two.
And I just noticed I made a boo-boo in my earlier post - I said build up on the exhaust valves when I meant on the intake valves!
Thanks for the info! I'll give it a try, too.
 
  #35  
Old 11-26-2023 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jibricb
Greetings,

The few past months I have been doing some research specifically on the 2016 and up f type r solely for its awd capabilities and being a v8. I’ve watched a dozen or so YouTube vids of personal experiences with the car and I’m in love. I’m coming from a Lexus rcf and that was a blast to drive but wanting something with a v8 and awd and it lead me to the f type r.



This will be a dedicated rally cruise car with some daily drives to work every now and then. I did notice a few things after doing some research that I would like someone to shed light on. These include the car battery dying quickly , catalytic converters failing early, rear diff has to be serviced early and closely watched if you push the car hard, water pump failing early, supercharge coupling loosening, fuel injectors failing, coolant y pipe blowing off, and coolant leaks. Since I’m only looking for the awd f type r spec vehicles what would be a good pickup in terms of mileage with these vehicles? Looking to pick up a used one before next summer. Thanks in advance.

f pace type r or svr vs f pace svr
I’m having a tough decision between these two. I have never seen a performance suv truck like the f pace. It’s so rare as opposed to a trackhawk or x5 or x6. Any major difference between the two or all personal opinion.
 
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