Mod week, feeding the addiction
#61
#62
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: (Illinois) - Led by Gov. PRICKster
Posts: 1,498
Received 985 Likes
on
565 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
DC
#63
#64
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Loving that new grile! You did a great job on it. Looks like a Big Ol' Catfish now with his mouth opened
I am thinking I am going to have to do that to mine.....Will have to decide if I want the surround to match like yours(white on mine) or go black? I am torn...They both look good...
DC
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
DC
Cambo sir, you get a bunch of credit for this, your discovery of the bumper beam part number was critical.
Thank you.
#65
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Get healed and get after it, also without pics it never happened, right
![Icon Mrgreen](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
Thanks for the compliments
#66
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
okay, I see that now. in some of the photos the bar blends with the surroundings which are also black but kind of looked similar to the car color and I guess the close up photos with glossy paint were the original. I guess I thought you ordered the new one and had it painted. I just talked to my welder - he seems to think its an easy fix - your photos and measurements will make it significantly easier and - so I am eternally grateful. I will try to document the moving of the receiver so others can undertake it - Teamwork makes the Dream work right? Now I'm free to paint my surround without carving it up first (at least I think so...) - BTW what did you use to adhere the wires to the grill to hide it? I was assuming something that sets quickly and is black?
Just a thought. Looking forward to your project.
#67
#68
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you take this on, here a thought for you. Since you'll have to make a plat to fill in to hole when you relocate the block. How about just making a new block that has both hole locations in it (if there's room) that is compatible with both grills? Then you'll have a bumper beam that can be used with both the P7 grill and the stock grill if you or any one else should ever decide to but it back? And probably easier and stronger to weld back in.
Just a thought. Looking forward to your project.
Just a thought. Looking forward to your project.
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/1280x958/9fa4a78f_56d8_4c1c_ac58_a4aa96357170_43c721a4d5a1bb219dab19f0817eae4fb8dce439.jpeg)
#69
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
From the photos it looks like the pilot holes over lap but it could be the angle of the shots too. Need to draw it out on paper and see. The pilot holes could be very close together with no problem as long as the treads have plenty of meat. I'm sure the pilot whole does provide support for the tow hook but I think it wouldn't lose much if any if the sides of the pilot holes where close together as long as the threads have plenty of meat. You're not going to jack the car up by the tow hook only tow it forward.
#70
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
From the photos it looks like the pilot holes over lap but it could be the angle of the shots too. Need to draw it out on paper and see. The pilot holes could be very close together with no problem as long as the treads have plenty of meat. I'm sure the pilot whole does provide support for the tow hook but I think it wouldn't lose much if any if the sides of the pilot holes where close together as long as the threads have plenty of meat. You're not going to jack the car up by the tow hook only tow it forward.
#71
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wasn't suggesting you buy another bumper bar for the block. I was suggesting having a machinist make a new tow "block or reciever" with 2 threaded holes in it out of a single piece of steel to replace the one you cut out. Then you don't need a filler block to fill in the hole when you remove the original block. That is if there is room for 2 holes in a single block?
#72
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wasn't suggesting you buy another bumper bar for the block. I was suggesting having a machinist make a new tow "block or reciever" with 2 threaded holes in it out of a single piece of steel to replace the one you cut out. Then you don't need a filler block to fill in the hole when you remove the original block. That is if there is room for 2 holes in a single block?
BTW, the bar and receiver are aluminum, easier to machine but harder to weld.
#73
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That’s an interesting idea, now that I understand what you are contemplating. It could certainly be done, have no idea what it would cost though. If you can find a shop with a CNC willing to prototype the two hole version you might be able to recover some costs by selling it to others on here.
BTW, the bar and receiver are aluminum, easier to machine but harder to weld.
BTW, the bar and receiver are aluminum, easier to machine but harder to weld.
#74
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Aluminum is even easier. You don't need CNC unless you going to make thousands of them which is WAY more than you need. A Bridgeport type mill is all you need. Even a band saw, belt sander and drill press would do it. You don't need.0001" accuracy. You really don't need .01" even. Pick the right Al alloy bar stock cut to length drill and tap 2 holes with pilot counter bores and not hard to weld.
#75
#77
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You may not want to post on the forum where you bought yours, if not could you send me a PM ?
There is no way I can get that block relocated on the bumper beam for around $50.00. Around here they won't even look at it for that, maybe X10 for somebody that you can trust.
Thanks,
There is no way I can get that block relocated on the bumper beam for around $50.00. Around here they won't even look at it for that, maybe X10 for somebody that you can trust.
Thanks,
#78
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You may not want to post on the forum where you bought yours, if not could you send me a PM ?
There is no way I can get that block relocated on the bumper beam for around $50.00. Around here they won't even look at it for that, maybe X10 for somebody that you can trust.
Thanks,
There is no way I can get that block relocated on the bumper beam for around $50.00. Around here they won't even look at it for that, maybe X10 for somebody that you can trust.
Thanks,
#79
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You may not want to post on the forum where you bought yours, if not could you send me a PM ?
There is no way I can get that block relocated on the bumper beam for around $50.00. Around here they won't even look at it for that, maybe X10 for somebody that you can trust.
Thanks,
There is no way I can get that block relocated on the bumper beam for around $50.00. Around here they won't even look at it for that, maybe X10 for somebody that you can trust.
Thanks,
#80
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will concede that I might be missing something when I’m looking at all the detailed photos, and I can’t speak for welding costs globally, but cutting the welds in the front and back and then cutting out the remaining bumper bar hole to accommodate moving it down and re-welding does it seem like a $500+ job.