More blower noise
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Cambo (03-26-2018)
#102
#103
#3 & 4 are the mufflers, #7 & 8 along with 9 are the tubes. All these parts would need to be replaced.
You could do just the mufflers but that's only making the noise to be slightly heard at the air filter area. If you want to really hear the noise, you would have to replace the plastic tubes with thin metal type walled parts to echo the noise.
If you want to experiment, take out the intake mufflers and gut them. They usually have a mesh type bag holding insulation to muffle the blower noise. Not saying it'll work but less insulation will make it louder...just don't know how much it will improve.
You could do just the mufflers but that's only making the noise to be slightly heard at the air filter area. If you want to really hear the noise, you would have to replace the plastic tubes with thin metal type walled parts to echo the noise.
If you want to experiment, take out the intake mufflers and gut them. They usually have a mesh type bag holding insulation to muffle the blower noise. Not saying it'll work but less insulation will make it louder...just don't know how much it will improve.
Which one has the maf sensors in it?
If the mufflers were gutted surely this would help flow too and as the maf ID size is un-altered and position un-changed there would be no risk of rich/lean running as all sensors and tube diameters are as per original ECU coding so any addition airflow would be registered on the ECU as additional maf flow lbs per minute and fuelling altered/corrected by the stock tune as necessary?
Am just thinking as these tubes could be a nice easy modification to gut them giving some additional flow and maybe some additional noise.
Of course a tune + crank pulley will give ultimate results.
#104
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Which one has the maf sensors in it?
If the mufflers were gutted surely this would help flow too and as the maf ID size is un-altered and position un-changed there would be no risk of rich/lean running as all sensors and tube diameters are as per original ECU coding so any addition airflow would be registered on the ECU as additional maf flow lbs per minute and fuelling altered/corrected by the stock tune as necessary?
Am just thinking as these tubes could be a nice easy modification to gut them giving some additional flow and maybe some additional noise.
Of course a tune + crank pulley will give ultimate results.
If the mufflers were gutted surely this would help flow too and as the maf ID size is un-altered and position un-changed there would be no risk of rich/lean running as all sensors and tube diameters are as per original ECU coding so any addition airflow would be registered on the ECU as additional maf flow lbs per minute and fuelling altered/corrected by the stock tune as necessary?
Am just thinking as these tubes could be a nice easy modification to gut them giving some additional flow and maybe some additional noise.
Of course a tune + crank pulley will give ultimate results.
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dwmilton (12-28-2021)
#105
That is great then as any improvement in flow from gutting those muffler tubes would be registered by maf flow and ECU would adjust fuelling as necessary assuming our ECU's have some ability to adjust fuelling which I'd be amazed if they did not considering its a modern car.
Plus the fact the Venturi intake is a no tune air intake system tells me ECU adjust fine and the car also has knock sensors to adjust timing/spark on demand depending on what octane fuel you use.
I might rip of the tubs then and have a look at how restrictive the mufflers are, if they have a gauze in them, save to remove.
Just don't remove grids in intake tubes, they use those to straighten airflow to give smoother running engine, so always keep those.
P.S. Anyone got a cost price on the muffler tubes? I ask simply because if for whatever reason the car does not adapt and runs poorly, always handy to be able to just buy some new ones and put back in.
Plus the fact the Venturi intake is a no tune air intake system tells me ECU adjust fine and the car also has knock sensors to adjust timing/spark on demand depending on what octane fuel you use.
I might rip of the tubs then and have a look at how restrictive the mufflers are, if they have a gauze in them, save to remove.
Just don't remove grids in intake tubes, they use those to straighten airflow to give smoother running engine, so always keep those.
P.S. Anyone got a cost price on the muffler tubes? I ask simply because if for whatever reason the car does not adapt and runs poorly, always handy to be able to just buy some new ones and put back in.
#108
#109
Yes, I had to close the valves, because my exhaust is loud and drowns out the whine when open. I'll try to put together a more thorough video next time around. Exhaust closed, exhaust open, outside flybys, maybe even an aerial shot from my drone :P Still trying to determine what is the best microphone for the job.
Last edited by zmoothg; 03-27-2018 at 02:24 AM.
#110
Hi there
OK today I went to Jaguar and ordered the muffler intake tube sections (3 & 4), they are only £69 each so its worth a go, just got the one for now, if I can successfully gut it or get someone to do it for me I shall then buy the other side and repeat.
Once done I shall fit and report back.
My question is, this will obviously adversely impact air flow ratio, as I am sure it will allow more air to flow past the maf sensor.
As the maf sensor is still in place, in its original maf tube un-altered will the adjusted maf readings be taken into account by the ECU and fuelling corrected as required or do I run the risk of the car running leaning or causing knock by doing this?
On my Mustang as it had an adaptive ECU and two knock sensors air intake and exhaust modifications could be made with no ill effect to the running of the car as the maf metered any flow changes and of course the ECU would adapt and as such no tuning was required for minor airflow modifications such as intake tubes, air filters and catback exhaust systems. Tuning was only required if you changed maf ID size or a sensor was re-located in the exhaust or you did something that had a big impact on airflow, such as a super charger or de-cat.
OK today I went to Jaguar and ordered the muffler intake tube sections (3 & 4), they are only £69 each so its worth a go, just got the one for now, if I can successfully gut it or get someone to do it for me I shall then buy the other side and repeat.
Once done I shall fit and report back.
My question is, this will obviously adversely impact air flow ratio, as I am sure it will allow more air to flow past the maf sensor.
As the maf sensor is still in place, in its original maf tube un-altered will the adjusted maf readings be taken into account by the ECU and fuelling corrected as required or do I run the risk of the car running leaning or causing knock by doing this?
On my Mustang as it had an adaptive ECU and two knock sensors air intake and exhaust modifications could be made with no ill effect to the running of the car as the maf metered any flow changes and of course the ECU would adapt and as such no tuning was required for minor airflow modifications such as intake tubes, air filters and catback exhaust systems. Tuning was only required if you changed maf ID size or a sensor was re-located in the exhaust or you did something that had a big impact on airflow, such as a super charger or de-cat.
#111
#112
But that is good to know, so if I gut them, car runs and I get no CEL light then the cars ECM is happy and fuelling is all within tolerances?
#114
No CEL, no problems.
#115
Also the air snorkels, be great if I could get something fabricated to make the opening push up against the front grill opening to ram air down there throat and lower IAT's further.
Will collect it tomorrow and post some photos of the stock tube up and inside it so people can see how restrictive or not it is.
#117
Good to hear.
For me working with the stock system is best as I am not much for open air cone filters.
As such maintaining stock filters and stock air boxes is a plus for me.
So just work on the intake tubes themselves, make them flow better and also try to re-direct the snorkels or put attachments on them that open right behind the open grill areas to cause more of a RAM AIR effect.
For me working with the stock system is best as I am not much for open air cone filters.
As such maintaining stock filters and stock air boxes is a plus for me.
So just work on the intake tubes themselves, make them flow better and also try to re-direct the snorkels or put attachments on them that open right behind the open grill areas to cause more of a RAM AIR effect.
#119
Hi there
OK parts 3 & 4 arrived, checked them out at dealership and decided to not go ahead with the purchase.
You can see from the image attachments the airflow is not restricted in anyway, there is no gauze or hydrocarbon or pre-cat type device in the tube at all unless of course they have been changed at some point during manufacturing.
Now of course the mid section is much thicker but trying to gut that would prove quite difficult and by doing so you'd then upset the air flow unless you smoothed out the internal walls.
I am quite sure that the thick mid-section absolutely reduces supercharger whine as the design looks to suppress noise and not impede airflow.
As such I feel the best solution would be to give sections 3 & 4 to a fabricator to have copied but without the centre bulge and as such a thinner wall and either made from carbon, FRP or ABS plastic all that matters is the internal diameters are kept as close to stock as possible with as smooth airflow as possible.
If there are any other parts people can suggest I look at on the intake system I shall do so.
Does anyone have an image of the interior of the air box from the V8? As maybe that also has carbon trap and/or Helmholtz resonator inside?
OK parts 3 & 4 arrived, checked them out at dealership and decided to not go ahead with the purchase.
You can see from the image attachments the airflow is not restricted in anyway, there is no gauze or hydrocarbon or pre-cat type device in the tube at all unless of course they have been changed at some point during manufacturing.
Now of course the mid section is much thicker but trying to gut that would prove quite difficult and by doing so you'd then upset the air flow unless you smoothed out the internal walls.
I am quite sure that the thick mid-section absolutely reduces supercharger whine as the design looks to suppress noise and not impede airflow.
As such I feel the best solution would be to give sections 3 & 4 to a fabricator to have copied but without the centre bulge and as such a thinner wall and either made from carbon, FRP or ABS plastic all that matters is the internal diameters are kept as close to stock as possible with as smooth airflow as possible.
If there are any other parts people can suggest I look at on the intake system I shall do so.
Does anyone have an image of the interior of the air box from the V8? As maybe that also has carbon trap and/or Helmholtz resonator inside?
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alphakinase (04-04-2018)
#120