Check the part numbers on the work order for the last clutch replacement. It would be interesting to see what generation clutch and flywheel you have. The issue is most certainly a bad clutch. I've had two 1st generation clutches, (1st wouldn't go into gear, 2nd one slipped horribly between 1st and 2nd gear), a 3rd generation clutch (wouldn't go into gear), and a 4th generation clutch which has been working great. Just in case, I also have sitting on the shelf a backup high-performance clutch and lightened single mass flywheel built to my specs by SPEC.

 

All of the parts listed on my previous invoice are listed below. A flywheel wasn't listed. Can you tell based on the clutch part number if it's a 3rd generation clutch?
1 T2R27466 Clutch
2 T4N1299 Pin
6 T2R15201 Bolt
12 C2D2087 Bolt
2 JDE32544 Clamp-Exhaust
1 LRNDOT4 Fluid - Brake

 

I’ve got the part numbers documented in my database. I’ll let you know tonight.

 

My notes of your notes show this:

Generation part # Retail Price
1 T2R18945 $819
2 T2R21165 $1131
3 T2R25681 $1053
4 T2R27466 $517

 

I had similar problems with a couple of manual trans (not Jag) some 10 to 20 years ago - very difficult to get 1st gear when cold, improved when warm - and what I found helped a lot was to start the car, depress the clutch pedal fully (and keep it in) and row through all the gears including reverse for about 30 seconds, before taking off.
I know this won't cure the underlying problem but at least it might help a bit before you get it fixed.

 

That’s it. Unfortunately, that means a fourth GEN clutch threw in the towel before it crapped out from wear.

 

This may likely be unrelated to the OP's issues, but mine's been a little goofy from the get-go as well (get-go being getting the new transmission with fourth gen clutch last April).

It feels great when the car's starting from stone-cold, and throughout the initial drive. Shifts very nicely.
However, if I drive at highway (or greater) speed for any extended period, park the car, then return to it before it's totally cooled off, I have issues.
​​​The pedal action will feel damped, and the engagement feels lower in the travel. Additionally, the clutch will feel sticky when I disengage to come to a stop. In first gear, for example, coming to a stop in a parking lot, there will be an audible "clunk" as I depress the pedal and the clutch disengages. This phenomenon will dissipate as I continue to drive. Another workaround that I've discovered is to apply several vigorous pumps to the clutch pedal after start up prior to setting off.

I don't have the expertise to hazard a guess, but the dealer couldn't tell me what it was either.

 

I fought clutch issues with my 2010 Camaro SS/RS for about 3 years, (we were the original
owners of the car and it had 70,000 miles on it) I gave up and bought the F-type. I don’t think there is a good OEM clutch setup to handle the torque of these modern engines.

is DOT 4 the correct brake fluid for all the model year F-types?

 

I should provide an update. The new hard to get in to gear when cold issue that I described in post #18 has now disappeared. I'm at a loss to understand what's going on. Perhaps the car just healed itself.

Luc Lapierre, that clunk you're talking about is really annoying. I don't think it existed in my car prior to my clutch being replaced. It happens about a 1/3 of the time and almost seems like something is loose.

SS4PK, An interesting thing about the F-Type is that it has the same transmission as my BMW 435 had. That car didn't have a much HP as the F-Type, but there were absolutely no issues with the clutch. I'm thinking that the root of the problem is a poor clutch design by people who are not experienced with clutch designs. This is evidenced by multiple clutch generations.

 

You need to be sure it's DOT4 LV (Low Viscosity).

 

The full specs required for the F-Type are:
SL.6 DOT4 (class 6).
Luc,
Try flushing the brake lines and clutch line before filling with the correct fluid. You may have some moisture in those systems.

 

Got it, thanks. That what I ordered.

 

Interesting.
I did a full brake fluid drain and refill just over two years ago now, using Nulon Super Dot 4 brake fluid, which does not appear to meet the SL.6 spec (nothing on the bottle about that spec although it lists a bunch of others). See here: https://www.nulon.com.au/products/br...---super-dot-4
Never had the faintest hint of a brake problem, but I never hammer the brakes and never get the fluid particularly hot, maybe the SL.6 is really only needed if you track the car and hammer the brakes?

Edit - another problem - the stooopid Workshop Manual rabbits on for page after page after page after page about the CCM brakes and has limited info about the steel brakes, and of course it shows the spec of the fluid for the CCM brakes - Castrol react SRF racing high performance brake fluid - but it shows SFA about the spec of the fluid for the steel brakes!

Edit 2 - it's in the Owner Manual under Technical Specifications:

"Vehicles without carbon ceramic brake discs:
Use Jaguar brake fluid. If unavailable for topping up, a Low Viscosity, DOT4 brake fluid that meets
the requirements of ISO 4925 class 6 may be used."

Guess what?
The unopened bottle of Nulon Super Dot 4 I have in my hot little hand as I type lists "ISO 4925". Just not "class 6".
Adding all this up I'm 99% certain the humble (and cheap!) Nulon fluid I use is perfectly good for the job and I have no need to go chasing some special (expensive) elixir and stuff about with another brake fluid change.

 

It looks like ISO 4925 covers Class 3, 4, 5,1, 6, and perhaps others. The main difference with Class 6 looks to be viscosity, which I've read is important for rapid cycling of ABS. I suspect it was also relevant for my Volvo 6MT clutch system, as I had the clutch replaced at 10K miles and again at 20K for what I saw as hydraulic problems. It was under warranty, so I didn't ever get satisfying answers, but Volvo was paying for it so I let it go.

 

There's the rub, I have never and I mean NEVER experienced ABS in operation in some 45 years of driving, maybe I'm just not braking hard enough!
Either that or I have been using the wrong brake fluid all this time!

 

Or not tried braking on icy roads?
Do you ever have ice on the roads in Oz?

 

Yep, at some times in some places - the Australian Alps and southern Tasmania.
Never seen snow or ice on the road at all where I live, in nearly 65 years.
Seen snow on the ground once in my life when I went to the snow country (Australian Alps) back in 2010, never seen snow falling.

 

I'll provide yet another update. My 2017 F-Type S was all good for over a year. About three weeks ago it just became difficult to get in to first and second gear, sometime impossible. Oddly, the problem would come and go. I made it to work one day, but only by starting out in second gear a few times. I had it hauled to my local Jaguar dealership. They couldn't reproduce the problem. I went and got it and didn't have an issue for over two weeks. Then yesterday is seemingly randomly started doing the same thing again. I actually got stuck in the street at one point not being able to get the car in to second gear or back in to first gear. A truck behind the car behind me actually went off the road because I'm sure he wasn't expecting a car to be stopped where I had to stop. Fortunately, he didn't hit anything or damage anything other than perhaps a lawn. I had to turn the car off, put it in first gear, and start the car while holding the stick in first gear. I was then able to go up the road a bit and pull over. After that, I turned the car off and restarted it. I was then able to make the rest of the drive (about 15 minutes) without any problem at all. I went out to go to work this morning and the car wouldn't go in to first gear with the car running. Oddly, I was able to get the car out of the garage by holding the clutch down and pressing the stick towards first gear. It just slowly crept out. I put it in the driveway and had it hauled to the same Jag dealership this afternoon. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they can figure it out this time. It's too dangerous to drive in this condition and my warranty runs out in ten days.

 

I had that problem twice. Dealer couldn’t reproduce the problem. No problems for last two years. I think it’s the transmission not the clutch. It just gets stuck in a very certain position that only occurs once in a million revolutions.

 

I'm sure it's the clutch and not the transmission. That description has all the hallmarks of a dragging clutch, and matches my own experience. That, and I've rebuilt *lots* of manual transmissions. It's a box of constant-mesh gears, and there's nothing that would behave that way and then "get better."