MY 2021 grille retrofit?
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Supersprint Sport Exhausts (11-18-2022)
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I'm considering fabricating a new grill for my 2017 out of material like this. It should be fairly easy. I think it would be simple to use the S badge or growler to create a removable "cap" over a hole to accommodate the tow hook. Black Pack fans might prefer balck material, but I'm a classicist. Your thoughts?
https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-by-...esh/alpha-mesh
https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-by-...esh/alpha-mesh
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cujet (11-20-2022)
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I'm considering fabricating a new grill for my 2017 out of material like this. It should be fairly easy. I think it would be simple to use the S badge or growler to create a removable "cap" over a hole to accommodate the tow hook. Black Pack fans might prefer balck material, but I'm a classicist. Your thoughts?
https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-by-...esh/alpha-mesh
https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-by-...esh/alpha-mesh
Other grill materials include a honeycomb like material, which is generally less restrictive. It's available on Ebay and other sources.
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Do we think that honeycomb shaped material flows better because that particular shape flows better? Or is it just because the openings are bigger?
I'm considering using this material I linked above because the openings are a tad bigger than 1/4 inch, which SEEMS like it should be big enough to flow well. I'm hoping someone has the fluid dynamics know how to estimate how the flow thru this is likely to compare to the flow thru a stock grill with the bar. Don't want to do something that creates a significant reduction in flow compared to stock, but I don't need more either as I'm not boosting power over S stock.
Most of the folks I race with use 1/4 inch chicken wire "grills" to protect our radiators. We know that does create non-trivial obstruction compared to leaving the radiator intake uncovered, but it does not seem to lead to overheating even in desert heat.
I'm considering using this material I linked above because the openings are a tad bigger than 1/4 inch, which SEEMS like it should be big enough to flow well. I'm hoping someone has the fluid dynamics know how to estimate how the flow thru this is likely to compare to the flow thru a stock grill with the bar. Don't want to do something that creates a significant reduction in flow compared to stock, but I don't need more either as I'm not boosting power over S stock.
Most of the folks I race with use 1/4 inch chicken wire "grills" to protect our radiators. We know that does create non-trivial obstruction compared to leaving the radiator intake uncovered, but it does not seem to lead to overheating even in desert heat.
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At any airspeed we deal with, a round bar (like the components of a robust metal screen) has roughly 10x the drag of a teardrop shaped part. A proper honeycomb design, while not teardrop shaped, may have a thinner cross section along with a long pathway for the air molecules to pass around. Given a proper, open design, will likely flow more air. Whether that matters or not is a guess at this point, as the condenser and radiator create quite a restriction. Simply removing the central bar and badges will increase the available area, so clearly Jag felt the grill opening was ample.
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Michael211 (11-22-2022)
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At any airspeed we deal with, a round bar (like the components of a robust metal screen) has roughly 10x the drag of a teardrop shaped part. A proper honeycomb design, while not teardrop shaped, may have a thinner cross section along with a long pathway for the air molecules to pass around. Given a proper, open design, will likely flow more air. Whether that matters or not is a guess at this point, as the condenser and radiator create quite a restriction. Simply removing the central bar and badges will increase the available area, so clearly Jag felt the grill opening was ample.
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