My last Corvette, 460 hp V8, had free oil change service at the dealer at 500 to change out the orig factory filled oit with Mobil 1 synthetic oil & filter.

I don't think we need to do that with our 550 hp V8. But does any here change out their oil before they hit 10000 miles or 1 year oil change at the dealer...?

I'm sorta old school, & with 95 degrees all summer, still thinkin' I should do an oil change at 5000 miles on my own first.

Thoughts?

 

lots do, and i've met few that change every 5k KMs

 

The endless debate, years ago 3000 mile oil change intervals and first change at either 500m or 1000m

Now Jaguar and many manufacturer recommend 16000 mile intervals.

My answer to your question would be to change your oil early won't do any harm to your engine.

Whether it will benefit your engine in any way, such as longevity, durability or reliability is I suspect doubtful but open to debate.

 

I have an oil analysis done every time the oil is changed. Based on the results, the recommended 16k interval seems to be just fine except for the first oil change. I would recommend changing the oil right after the break-in period (3-5k) as that initial batch is indeed loaded with superfluous crap from the manufacturing process despite claims to the contrary (mostly silica from sealants as well as higher levels of metals).

 

It won't make any difference if you are only plan to own the car while it is under warranty, however it does make difference when the car makes it to an old age. Personally, I change first oil within first 1000 miles.

 

Me too!

That is, I get the oil analyzed with each change. I'll second the recommendation to change after 3000 miles and before 5. I had some early analyses done with the original fill at 500, 5, 000, and 6,500, when I finally did the change. At 5k it was showing enough break-in accumulation that changing was a good option. At 6.5k, the oil viscosity and additives (TBN) were still fine, but accumulation was up a bit more and changing was recommended.

 

Great.
Thanks for the info/suggs so far.
I'm coming up on 2,000 miles, so going to get it done soon.

Next ques: I'm got tons of 5w30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil stocked in garage to change our other cars also.
But Jaguar uses Castrol, with diff grade.
Is Mobil 1 acceptable, or Must I stick with Castrol & go out & buy it?
Thanks,

 

There are two questions there:

Change grade? I can't recommend a different grade than what is specified in the owner's manual. Engine tolerances and normal operating temperature both play a role in what is recommended. If you want to make s different choice, do it for good reason. "Because I have some" isn't a great reason, in my opinion.

Change type? The Castrol specified has "titanium technology" and I don't really know what that is supposed to provide. Some kind of betterness to match the more expensiveness, I'm sure, but I I have not investigated that. Titanium does show up in the oil analysis though, so it is there.

Any discussion of oil is bound to generate a lot of comment, so watch this space!

EDIT: I'd wait until at least 3,000, and probably closer to 5,000 before that first change. I saw wear metals increase even at 5k, but the oil was still good. With a change at 6500, the next change at 10k still showed metals from breaking in. The report at 15k was outstanding, with metals stabilized at a very low level. From the 15k report:

"This is the report you've been waiting for! Sure, we weren't concerned about metals in the past
since they were just from wear-in, but it's always great to issue a perfect, highlight-free report. The last of
the wear-in material has washed out and we don't think the 40 ppm titanium is an issue. That could be
wear, or just oil additive."

 

Some of the bottles (maybe all) even advertise "added titanium", so high content within the oil is to be expected.

 

Using 5w30 will likely void your engine warranty.

 

Suck a little up into a clear tube, like I just did.

Very easy to do it with either a $6 pump from harbor freight, or your mouth.

You'll be very surprised how dirty it is. And then you'll probably change it, like I just did.

Given how often I use the power, I will be changing the oil frequently.

 

I have been using Amsoil professional 0-30 in all my Jag's' ... its made from pure synthetic stock, same as the oil Jag recommends.. Jaguar dealer, mechanics and even the senior Jag tech that mentors all the Jag dealer mechanics advises its fine for warranty and better protection than 0-20, especially in hot weather.

Apparently many synthetics are not made from pure synthetic material.
Lawrence

 

I'm big on oil analysis as well. I haven't had an oil close to being end of life even at recommended intervals. I still change it but the new oils with good filtration are pretty amazing.

 

It's not just the improvement in oils and filtration, but manufacturing tolerances. Some new vehicles do not specify break-in at all. Key parts are manufactured with such precision that they don't need to "get to know each other" like the old days. Materials are much better too.

 

It is an endless debate, but a few bits of info will help owners make the right decision for them.

First, unless you invest a few hundred dollars in a low flow piggy back oil filter that removes virtually all contaminates, your high flow (OEM) oil filter will not prevent most wear, they only prevent engine damage.

Lots of studies show that 80-90% of engine wear is caused by sub-2 micron particles. A high flow filter, sufficient to supply enough filtered oil to a running engine, will only filter out approximately 15-20 microns and larger. It varies some with filter quality, but I'm quoting numbers from some of the best filters.

Bottomline, if you don't add a low flow filter, typically available from Amsoil or Franz, then you need to change your oil to filter it. So, the more frequent, the better.

From a minimizing engine wear and tear perspective, it is generally better to use conventional oil and change twice or three times as often, at the same price point. Synthetic obviously offers other benefits.

Manufactures are now recommending lighter oils, often 0W, and very long change intervals. That does three things: lighter oil improves MPG slightly, longer intervals lowers suggested maintenence costs, and both increase engine wear. All three are aimed at selling more cars. None are aimed at making your car last longer.

 

Motul Specific JLR 5122 0W20 is also available in the UK online from Opie Oils. Price is £67 per 5L which is about $66 per US gallon (5L being about 1.32 US gallons and using an exchange rate of 1.3 $ per £. This much more expensive than the $8.79/qt ($35/US gall) quoted earlier in this thread, but then all motoring costs in the UK are much more than those in the US (and I've owned great cars in both countries).
I also note the comment earlier that Dealerships all use the "suck" method to get old oil out for an oil change. I'm sure they do but then, why do they always charge you for a new drain plug?

 

I realize that this is a resurrected thread that started in 2018, but for newer owners this info may be helpful.

My 2021 F Type R is now approaching the 2500 mile mark. Free oil and filter changes are covered under warranty but there is no way I will reach 16,000 miles before May of this new year (2022) and I don't want to go a year on the factory fill so I am about to change it myself in the next week or so.

I bought a Mityvac extractor and filter wrench that is correct for the Jaguar cannister filter along with an OEM filter. I have a torque wrench that will be used to set the proper torque when reinstalling the filter already.

Jaguar now recommends 0W-20 oil and very specifically, the Castrol Edge Professional EC5 that will be marked STJLR.03.5006 on the bottles. That is the latest formula that was introduced 2 or 3 years ago. That oil is difficult to find and not available from any online sellers. I only found 2 dealers in Southern California that stocked it but I imagine that any JLR parts department can order it for you. My receipt says the part # is 15DA2C A72 EDGE PRO and it cost $12.95 per quart.

I will send a sample in to Blackstone Labs and post the results once I get them back. I think even though I can get free oil changes throughout the life of the warranty, I'll still feel better about doing my own at 5000 mile intervals and letting the dealer do them when I hit a one year or 16,000 mile point as well. I still like working on my own cars and I think doing an oil change on a Jaguar with the top extraction method is going to be a pleasure after about 50 years of crawling under my vehicles and doing it the old fashioned way.

 

A recommendation for Opie Oils to UK members.

My XK and F-PACE fortunately both require the same specification of Castrol Edge Professional E labelled STJLR.51.5122. Any specification of Castrol Edge Professional is becoming increasingly difficult to find in the UK but last week Opie Oils were showing stock on the range, including STJLR.03.5006 for the F-Type, all at a significant cost below list price.

Before hitting the 'confirm' button on my order for 16 litres, I thought it worth asking for a discount and in doing so I didn't disclose membership of any relevant club or forum. They replied to my eMail within 20 minutes with a code for a 15% discount. Well done Opie Oils.

(I'm just a satisfied customer and have no connection with this supplier nor was I asked to give any endorsement.)

Graham

 

I change Oil and Filter every 6 months (4,000 mi.). MOTUL Specific 5122, 0W20 100% Synthetic. I spray 1 can of CRC to assist in cleaning the valves approx. 1 week prior to oil change hence clearing any debris from system.
The advice, common sense and knowledge gained from this forum is AWESOME.

Happy New Year 2022 Blessings to ALL.

 

Direct Injection engine, 5 Litre Supercharged Heat, 0W-20 thin oil and people still asking if they should change their oil like if it was a $30,000 engine replacement question.

Short answer: Yes!! It's a new engine you don't know what's mixing with your oil during break in so call me old school but $100 spent to change the oil/filter WILL make me sleep better at night. Seriously it's a $100 cost process when you drive a $50,000+ vehicle I don't know why people keep asking about this lol

As for what type oil in my opinion all modern full synthetics especially with SN+ ratings and SP will do just fine. As for oil weight I use 5W-20 for every day use and change it to 5W-30 if I am doing track days then changing it rightaway after the session end

Best of luck to all