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Here's how I did it. I used the taps on the empty spots which I found using one of those electric probes. One of them is constant and the other is switched and the best part is that they are not on any of the sockets that are in current use so, yea, that.
If memory serves me right the yellow wire is the constant which I have plugged into F39 and the red wire is the switch which I have plugged into F16. My solution for the ground wasn't fancy by any means (or proper really...), but it works for now, till I get around to drilling a hole.
On a side note, I also placed the Power Magic Pro in the fuse area, you can see the black wire running from over the fuse panel down to where the PMP is.
Last edited by NoScurdyJags; 07-29-2017 at 05:07 PM.
Did you figure out which one is switched? I'm hardwiring my detector this week once I get back to the car. I can do some testing, on those two circuits, but I'll take any lessons learned from you.
Did you figure out which one is switched? I'm hardwiring my detector this week once I get back to the car. I can do some testing, on those two circuits, but I'll take any lessons learned from you.
I'm hesitant to bump this thread but I had to spend some time in the passenger footwell wiring up my perhipherals and thought my findings might save someone else some time.
It looks like F16 is the only switched power in the footwell fuse box. I tested all the other empty slots and none changed behavior with the car in 'OFF' vs 'ON'. Perhaps the behavior is different with the engine started vs 'OFF' (didn't want to repeatedly cycle a cold engine in the garage), but for now I've piggybacked the tap-a-fuse I already had on F16 to run my dash cam and radar detector in parallel.
Sure, but I didn't have the appropriate taps with me and the tap-a-fuses I had sitting were begging for it. Plus, I didn't want to deal with tapping two separate circuits into there in a cramped space.