so, today on my yearly service interval oil change the dealer informs me i have metal in my filter and the tapping noise i have been complaining about since my last service is indeed the bottom end?!?!? didn't see that coming! Luckily i am still well under warranty and scheduled to drop it off on NOV 2 to let them keep it for estimated 10 days. Service rep was nice and i have no complaints about this dealership, but 26,000 miles and it needs a motor? i will keep this thread updated with my experience.
14 V8 S

 

Can you describe the tapping? I have a light metallic tap that matches cadence with rpm's. Reported to the dealer when it was last in and they said its fine. Mine is also a V8S, owned since new, 22k miles and serviced every 12 months.

 

Thats literally my story until today. Its a random RPM metal on metal tapping, not overly loud (can't hear it with the top/windows down or the even the exhaust open) can't feel it, runs great, no other symptoms.

Only thing i can suggest is getting the oil tested, its cheap, $25 piece of mind. i will be doing mine every oil change goin forward.

 

I change my oil every 8k miles and at the annual service whichever comes first. Usually means new oil twice annually and i have the oil analyzed every time it’s changed. I’ll know when the bearings have been pounded out and need to be changed.
Not quite certain why they are replacing the engine if the bearings are bad unless they detected ring material. But that wouldn’t cause knocking, just oil consumption.

 

Definitely odd given the surgery they were willing to go through on my car.

 

I was told the filter was "full of metal" and it was bottom end, so I would imagine rod bearing and it was all thru the main bearings and the whole engine pre filter. I have always assumed when I find metal in the bottom the rest will go soon. Who else has been thru a similar issue?

 

on former race cars, yes.never on a street machine. Rings usually go first in the shortblock.

 

LS stuff is the same, once i find metal in the oil its not going back in. But this wasn't even my diagnosis this is from the Jag service rep, i just was getting my yearly service to keep the warranty valid (i only put about 8000 miles a year on it living in the NE). ill take a new short block if there is metal contamination. Was also told they are doing an F-Pace for the same issue at 2300 miles.

Who has the highest mileage supercharged AJ133 or LR-V8 (F-type, F-pace, XJL, Etc)

 

Thank you for positing this.

This is third such case we have heard about recently. To help F-type community, could you please post more details on what went wrong. We need to know what part failed, what mileage was on your engine, how aggressively you used it, and what oil change interval you followed.

 

have no idea on what part failed internally (would assume ring or crank bearing), but it was a quart or so low oil in < 3000 miles since last checked from top of the full mark (where it has always been in the past), you can hear a very very slight "metallic" tap that is inconsistent and not all the time, happened at 26k even, no check engine light, no warning light, runs mints, no smoke. I drive it, but i don't track it, i do keep the R's higher (3200+ plus but not near the limiter other then a random few times) once in a while if messing with some of the local honda kids. but mostly just sunny day cruising enjoying the exhaust noise. my oil get changed at my yearly service because other then this year it never sees more then 5000 miles in 12 months.

 

Sorry to hear about this. I have a 2011 XJ SC and a 2012 XKR. Obviously both the 5.0 SC motors. The XJ has 90K miles and the XKR 50K. The XJ water pump failed at 80K miles (8 years and 80K miles for a pump to fail is not what I would consider "bad"). The water pump failure should not cause immediate engine destruction because it will CLEARLY tell you when your coolant is low or engine is overheating. The first time I got the "coolant low" I checked and added coolant. A month later I got that message again and this time I did some more looking but could not see any leaks. A few weeks later I felt the power steering behaving erratically and called my mechanic about it and he said "that is the coolant leaking on your serpentine belt". OK, water pump is dying clearly, made note to take to mechanic soon. The very next day I was a mile from home and (finally) got engine temperature high warning. Immediately parked and called wife to come get me. Had car towed to mechanic, replaced water pump and serpentine belt ($600). Car back in action in 4 days; running fine ever since.

I've had NO issues with the XKR. Yes, its only 50K miles on it but I daily drove it 80+ miles on my commute for a couple of years before COVID. One thing I WILL say is the timing chain tensioner issue is caused by too low oil level. The dumb design to have no dipstick leaves only the digital readout as the method for you to determine how much is in there. I have noticed that halfway between oil changes on my XJ, I will notice a slightly noisier idle than usual at cold start ("ticking"), when I check the oil level the top indicator bar is not lit; I add a quart of oil and the noise goes away immediately. (An engine at 90K miles will burn some oil, nothing unusual about that). I'm not a mechanic but I AM a car nerd so I read everything on how to take care of these. I've had very few problems and I drive the stonk out of the XJ because it only cost me half what the XKR did and we use it every day for the wife and three kids. I don't use any exotic oil, Valvoline or Pennzoil (or even Wal Mart Super Tech) I've used never a problem. IMHO, keeping that oil level topped off is more important than changing it 2000 or 3000 miles sooner; no oil is far more destructive than old oil. On the XJ I just wait for the interval message and change it; on the XK I change it every year. That's it.

 

The water pump in my 2010 XKR started leaking very slightly at around 10k miles (5 years) - had the pump replaced to avoid any catastrophes. If only Ford could build reliable parts ....

 

I can confirm Josh’s replacement motor is still going strong 3+ years later. My water pump was starting to drip when I had the other coolant pipes replaced this fall.