New owner - 15 V8S
#21
I think some options weren’t available in Canada? The 2015 brochure shows CCBs...
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#22
Haha no worries! They definitely are not common on the 15 V8S - this is the first one I've seen with them
#23
make sure to post up those photos when you get that done. I was thinking of painting mine yellow also. Good contrast with my dark blue. I least I think it would look good.
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STMPY (10-02-2019)
#24
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Could be a while yet, just waiting on "Jaguar" decals from Blighty to arrive.
I could paint the calipers now and stick the decals on later but I'm not keen on having to remove and replace all four wheels twice, and it would also involve cleaning the calipers a second time before applying the decals, so I have decided to do it all in one hit spread over two days - paint the calipers on day 1 then let dry overnight and stick the decals on plus clear coat on the next day. I even bought a pair of small bottle jacks so together with my pair of low entry trolley jacks I can get all four wheels in the air at once. I know axle stands would be better but so far I have been unable to find any that are low enough height to make it easy, my existing axle stands only just squeak under the front jack/stand points with the trolley jacks at max height and it's a real hassle.
I'm still pondering what to do with the wheel centre caps as I don't think the existing OEM red ones will go well with the yellow calipers.
I have a slightly used but damaged (one prong missing on 3 of 4) after-market black ones and a brand new set of after-market blue ones, I reckon I will try the blue ones first.
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Noshame (10-03-2019)
#25
Yep, will do.
Could be a while yet, just waiting on "Jaguar" decals from Blighty to arrive.
I could paint the calipers now and stick the decals on later but I'm not keen on having to remove and replace all four wheels twice, and it would also involve cleaning the calipers a second time before applying the decals, so I have decided to do it all in one hit spread over two days - paint the calipers on day 1 then let dry overnight and stick the decals on plus clear coat on the next day. I even bought a pair of small bottle jacks so together with my pair of low entry trolley jacks I can get all four wheels in the air at once. I know axle stands would be better but so far I have been unable to find any that are low enough height to make it easy, my existing axle stands only just squeak under the front jack/stand points with the trolley jacks at max height and it's a real hassle.e
I'm still pondering what to do with the wheel centre caps as I don't think the existing OEM red ones will go well with the yellow calipers.
I have a slightly used but damaged (one prong missing on 3 of 4) after-market black ones and a brand new set of after-market blue ones, I reckon I will try the blue ones first.
Could be a while yet, just waiting on "Jaguar" decals from Blighty to arrive.
I could paint the calipers now and stick the decals on later but I'm not keen on having to remove and replace all four wheels twice, and it would also involve cleaning the calipers a second time before applying the decals, so I have decided to do it all in one hit spread over two days - paint the calipers on day 1 then let dry overnight and stick the decals on plus clear coat on the next day. I even bought a pair of small bottle jacks so together with my pair of low entry trolley jacks I can get all four wheels in the air at once. I know axle stands would be better but so far I have been unable to find any that are low enough height to make it easy, my existing axle stands only just squeak under the front jack/stand points with the trolley jacks at max height and it's a real hassle.e
I'm still pondering what to do with the wheel centre caps as I don't think the existing OEM red ones will go well with the yellow calipers.
I have a slightly used but damaged (one prong missing on 3 of 4) after-market black ones and a brand new set of after-market blue ones, I reckon I will try the blue ones first.
#26
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Calipers redone in yellow just over a week ago now, here are a few snaps:
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Chawumba (11-17-2019)
#29
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Yes, it annoys me a little as well that they are different but you are the first person to ever notice or at least comment on this!
#31
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So I used my old trick - two winds of electrical insulation tape around the tabs, worked a treat, nice firm fit and no stuffing about with hot glue.
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Carbuff2 (11-18-2019)
#32
The fronts are the original colour (unpainted but clear coated), but when I went to fit the rears a couple of years ago (a year after I fitted the fronts, long story) the hats/centres were corroded and pitted and I could not bring them up nice and clean and shiny, so I spray painted them with gloss black caliper paint before I fitted them.
Yes, it annoys me a little as well that they are different but you are the first person to ever notice or at least comment on this!
Yes, it annoys me a little as well that they are different but you are the first person to ever notice or at least comment on this!
#33
Welcome to the forum.
Make sure to stay on top of oil changes, these engines have hydraulically controlled variable timing that goes disastrously bad with sludge.. F-type doesn't warn you about running low on oil, so take care to check it. Also, up until 2015 Jaguar's V8 had timing chain issue - I am not sure when exactly it was fixed, but make sure not to ignore sewing machine noises on the warm engine.
Also, take engine cover off, it traps heat and decreases durability of plastic cooling piping.
Last but not least, unless PO already done this, you are overdue on coolant and transmission oil and filter service. No, they are not lifetime fluids.
Make sure to stay on top of oil changes, these engines have hydraulically controlled variable timing that goes disastrously bad with sludge.. F-type doesn't warn you about running low on oil, so take care to check it. Also, up until 2015 Jaguar's V8 had timing chain issue - I am not sure when exactly it was fixed, but make sure not to ignore sewing machine noises on the warm engine.
Also, take engine cover off, it traps heat and decreases durability of plastic cooling piping.
Last but not least, unless PO already done this, you are overdue on coolant and transmission oil and filter service. No, they are not lifetime fluids.
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Chawumba (11-18-2019)
#34
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Correct, you are a looong way short of needing to change either the trans fluid or the engine coolant.
Just check both and top up if necessary.
Very easy with the coolant, a lot more difficult with the trans fluid, you need to warm the engine/trans up, get underneath, remove the undertray and then remove the difficult to access trans fill plug, then the fluid should be dead level with the bottom edge of the plug hole such that once full it starts to leak out.
JLR say the trans fluid is "for life" and never needs renewing but lots of experience has shown (and ZF themselves confirm) that it should be replaced at or around 60,000 miles.
#35
#36
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It's the exact same calipers, just with yellow paint over the top of the original red!
The pic may be deceiving you, the top and bottom of the front caliper is hidden behind the wheel spokes, I juggled the car around a couple of times to get most of the centre of the caliper with the "Jaguar" decal showing.
Also I can't really see how slotted and drilled rotors are going to generate more brake dust than plain rotors, that has definitely not been my experience.
If you want waaaay less brake dust switch to Porterfield R4S or EBC ceramic pads.
#37
Thank you, that was because I was being a dumb *** and had somehow not noticed that his picture was of the rear wheel as opposed to the front. I really should stop posting on forums at nearly 5am when I apparently can't tell one end of a car from the other....
When I've changed to slotted rotors before I've often experienced more dust which I guessed was caused by the de-glazing function of the slots. Overall better for brake performance I'm sure but even compared to my old 993 the F definitely has some serious amount of brake dust thrown out even when I'm not driving like a lunatic, It stops quite nicely though so I mustn't complain.
When I've changed to slotted rotors before I've often experienced more dust which I guessed was caused by the de-glazing function of the slots. Overall better for brake performance I'm sure but even compared to my old 993 the F definitely has some serious amount of brake dust thrown out even when I'm not driving like a lunatic, It stops quite nicely though so I mustn't complain.
#38
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Thank you, that was because I was being a dumb *** and had somehow not noticed that his picture was of the rear wheel as opposed to the front. I really should stop posting on forums at nearly 5am when I apparently can't tell one end of a car from the other....
When I've changed to slotted rotors before I've often experienced more dust which I guessed was caused by the de-glazing function of the slots. Overall better for brake performance I'm sure but even compared to my old 993 the F definitely has some serious amount of brake dust thrown out even when I'm not driving like a lunatic, It stops quite nicely though so I mustn't complain.
When I've changed to slotted rotors before I've often experienced more dust which I guessed was caused by the de-glazing function of the slots. Overall better for brake performance I'm sure but even compared to my old 993 the F definitely has some serious amount of brake dust thrown out even when I'm not driving like a lunatic, It stops quite nicely though so I mustn't complain.
The 376 calipers are maybe 1 mm longer and .5 mm wider than the 326 calipers!
The CCM brakes are much better in this regard with the rear calipers barely any smaller than the fronts.
And as I said before get yourself some Porterfield R4S or EBC ceramic brake pads, waaaaaay less dust than the stock pads and they perform just as well.
Less initial bite but much smoother and more progressive and no "on/off switch" sudden action in stop/go traffic, and much less "graunch" noise just as you come to a stop.
#40
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Because of the different brake pad compound / materials you need the rotors to have a fresh surface for the new pads to bed to.
And skimming doesn't cost much, around $20 per rotor, a helluva lot less than new rotors.
Just make sure the rotors are still within wear specs - no more than 2 mm less than new thickness.