New Owner!
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There are plastic cooling pipes at the front (2) and at the rear of the engine (1) which have a bonded flange in them, very easy to spot. These tend to degrade and should be replaced with upgraded versions, either OEM Jaguar parts or aftermarket metal ones which are a direct fit. You do not want a sudden loss of coolant and resultant engine damage. So put this on a list of things to do sooner rather than later.
A differential fluid change is a very good thing at 50,000 miles, transmission fluid sometime after this….use only a 0w20 oil that meets the Jaguar Land River specification and change the oil yearly or every (put a reasonable number here: 4000? 6000? Fewer?) miles. Do not stretch to the absurdity of 10,000 miles or more.
Use only a “top tier” premium octane gasoline which has an good cleaning additive package.
These cars want and need a fully charged battery to power the 3,762 modules (only a slight exaggeration). If the voltage drops you will get random lights on the dash, strange behaviours, weird symptoms. It is almost always just the battery - even when it seems to make no sense. Many of us, possibly most of us, use a CTEK battery maintainer when the car is not driven very regularly. The result is a fully charged battery always and zero issues.
Finally: have fun but be careful. These cars are dangerously fast. Oh…and they are addictive! You will know that you are fully a Jaguar owner when you find yourself looking back at your Jag after parking it.
A differential fluid change is a very good thing at 50,000 miles, transmission fluid sometime after this….use only a 0w20 oil that meets the Jaguar Land River specification and change the oil yearly or every (put a reasonable number here: 4000? 6000? Fewer?) miles. Do not stretch to the absurdity of 10,000 miles or more.
Use only a “top tier” premium octane gasoline which has an good cleaning additive package.
These cars want and need a fully charged battery to power the 3,762 modules (only a slight exaggeration). If the voltage drops you will get random lights on the dash, strange behaviours, weird symptoms. It is almost always just the battery - even when it seems to make no sense. Many of us, possibly most of us, use a CTEK battery maintainer when the car is not driven very regularly. The result is a fully charged battery always and zero issues.
Finally: have fun but be careful. These cars are dangerously fast. Oh…and they are addictive! You will know that you are fully a Jaguar owner when you find yourself looking back at your Jag after parking it.
Last edited by sov211; 10-11-2023 at 12:03 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by sov211:
#3
other things....
You may want to do an 'upper engine clean'. These cars have direct injection, so a gas additive will not get all the deposits. The directions are on this forum.. search "upper engine clean" or something like that. It is possible to do it yourself. I opted to have the dealer do it. A bit pricey, but cheaper than if I did it and messed it up. If you have a switchable active exhaust, make sure those work. JLR has extended the warranty on the O2 sensors, check those. Check that the manual raise switch for the spoiler works. Spoiler should come up automatically at 70 mph and go down at 50, but the switch allows you to raise it for cleaning, etc. Familiarize yourself with how to check the oil level and the coolant level.
If you didn't get an owner's manual, here is an online resource:
https://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/
The cap for the coolant reservoir has to click 3 times to be fully closed. Invest in a good battery maintainer if you don't drive the car regularly. Many here recommend the C tek:
The C Tek is great because you can set it for a standard battery as well as the AGMs the Fs take. The charger/maintainer does an analysis and the lights progress as the battery goes through its conditioning. Much discussion here on where to connect it. I opted to use the eyelet connection that comes with it and connect that section of the cabling in the trunk.
If the original battery has not been replaced, do that. These cars are notorious for throwing codes when the battery is older and weaker. A replacement battery may not be fully charged before install, so be sure to do that.
IF you hear a noise from the engine while it is running that sounds like marbles in a can, that may indicate an issue with the supercharger.
Check to make sure all the JLR specified services have been performed on the car.
Have a great time driving it, and be forewarned, there's not much that can wipe the smile off your face!
If you didn't get an owner's manual, here is an online resource:
https://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/
The cap for the coolant reservoir has to click 3 times to be fully closed. Invest in a good battery maintainer if you don't drive the car regularly. Many here recommend the C tek:
The C Tek is great because you can set it for a standard battery as well as the AGMs the Fs take. The charger/maintainer does an analysis and the lights progress as the battery goes through its conditioning. Much discussion here on where to connect it. I opted to use the eyelet connection that comes with it and connect that section of the cabling in the trunk.
If the original battery has not been replaced, do that. These cars are notorious for throwing codes when the battery is older and weaker. A replacement battery may not be fully charged before install, so be sure to do that.
IF you hear a noise from the engine while it is running that sounds like marbles in a can, that may indicate an issue with the supercharger.
Check to make sure all the JLR specified services have been performed on the car.
Have a great time driving it, and be forewarned, there's not much that can wipe the smile off your face!
The following users liked this post:
Dwight Frye (10-11-2023)
#5
I second replacing the coolant pipes as well as the one that goes to the coolant reservoir. Don’t wait until the coolant pipe splits. When mine went and steamed the whole engine with coolant, my electric fans went out a week later after the pipes were replaced. I am sure the steam ruined the fans motors.
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It appears to have steel brakes. I hope so. The last thing I want is the CF disks- they are ridiculously expensive to replace.
I checked and do have all the goodies in the back, including the pump. Thanks for the heads up.
I also found a set of summertime floor mats. There are rubber ones installed right now, but some nifty black carpets are in the back.
I checked and do have all the goodies in the back, including the pump. Thanks for the heads up.
I also found a set of summertime floor mats. There are rubber ones installed right now, but some nifty black carpets are in the back.
#13
Hey, does anyone have any tips for getting in and out of the thing? I'm 6'1", and fit quite nicely in the driver's position, but getting into the thing is a bit of a struggle. Getting out, for some reason, isn't that difficult, but I have to actually bend my leg with my hands to get my left foot in when climbing into the thing.
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PaulBarrrera (10-14-2023)
#14
Lol, I can relate. I'm nearly 62 years old, also 6'1", (and not exactly thin anymore) so I do what I call the "hermit crab". I drop in butt first, then swing my legs around and in to driving position. Exiting is the reverse - swing both legs out by pivoting in the seat. Luckily I can still bend my knees fairly well so then I stand straight up. Sometimes the left elbow helps by pushing against the body door jamb. It's definitely not elegant or spry, nor do I care - a little awkwardness getting in/out is not going to stop me from driving the car I love. Sure, it makes me feel older - until I hit the ignition - then I'm 18 years old all over again...
And as for what observer's think - A) I don't care B) They're too busy looking at the car to notice the fat old man driver trying to fold/unfold like a hermit crab.
And as for what observer's think - A) I don't care B) They're too busy looking at the car to notice the fat old man driver trying to fold/unfold like a hermit crab.
The following 4 users liked this post by Clutch:
#15
c131frdave and Clutch, this technique works for me: I'm approaching 77 and naturally, also have to indulge in certain contortions to enter and exit my f-type, as my formerly-svelt self needs a little more room while manuvering to do so. Having stated that, I have always programed my #3 position on the power seat controls to the lowest, longest and furthest back position, as well as the steering wheel positioned back and tilted highest in the same move. Once I'm in, I hit button #1 and everthing reverts back to the perfect positioning of seats, steering and mirrors and I can now go out and terrorize Gen-Xers in their pissy little prius. Total disclosure: I also happen to be 5'6'' tall and only 190#; but who knows,it might work for you too!
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I tried the butt in first technique and failed. I still have to pull my left leg in. I'm getting better at it. I already have the seat as far back and as low as it will go, but I will try the seat memory with the steering wheel all the way up trick. Steering wheel is definitely in the way when I get in.
#19
Hey, does anyone have any tips for getting in and out of the thing? I'm 6'1", and fit quite nicely in the driver's position, but getting into the thing is a bit of a struggle. Getting out, for some reason, isn't that difficult, but I have to actually bend my leg with my hands to get my left foot in when climbing into the thing.
Open the driver's door, lean over and push the start button. After fully opening the windows, push the start button, then close the door. Climb in through the driver's side window and get yourself situated in the driver's seat [take your time].
The next time you get into your car [using the "traditional method"], you will realize just how easy it is!
The following 2 users liked this post by synthesis:
PaulBarrrera (10-14-2023),
Portlander (10-14-2023)
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