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@JoeyTheAsian A bit late to the game here, but I will drop a few comments here.
1) I like the pedal arrangement in my 2017 V6 Manual... I can do my "ball and pinky toe" shifting with ease. I can share my pedal spacing in Feb after I get back from a trip to UK
2) RPM Hang is something that is mentioned.. There are two sources: a) the heavy Dual Mass Flywheel, and b) electronic throttle control errors. I am soon offering a Light Weight Flywheel and Clutch upgrade.. look in this thread for more details. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...2/#post2610923
3) I'll share my pedal throw once back in country in 2 weeks.
4)
5) yeah.. I think a "lightweight" V6 Manual would be a nice car to develop. Throw out the stereo, simplify the interior, light weight sport buckets, perhaps Lexan for window glass, etc.. carbon fiber body panels? Perhaps -400 lbs?? There is someone else on the Forum who is a real weight-watcher. he may have some more thoughts.
6) Ask about where the VAP tune gains more torque... just at high RPM? or also down low?
7) the shift knob is lifted off of the stalk with "some force" no threads in sight. Talk to @Unhingd
8) see Jag service schedule (PDF) listed elsewhere in the Forums.
talk to you later,
i'm definitely very interested in your lightweight flywheel project, had no idea the flywheels on these cars are almost 40 lbs!!
Another good place to save weight on rotating mass could be the driveshaft. CF driveshaft would also eliminate the center u joint and corresponding hardware. Wonder if its been done by anyone else on here?
This is what my pedals looked like even after i added a 1cm spacer to the throttle pedal. Definitely wasn't very conducive to heel-toe considering my brake pedal bottoms out very early.
On a side note it felt great to take off those ghastly glued on ebay pedal covers. Aluminum replacements are underway. Couldnt justify the time & cost of new oem pedals.
Last edited by JoeyTheAsian; 01-18-2024 at 07:25 PM.
IIRC, those antigravity lithium batteries are eye wateringly expensive though...
They're also often significantly lower capacity than the battery they claim to be a replacement for... plenty of people have bought the lightest battery then realised their car won't run properly with a battery that's less than half the capacity. If you go to their site and enter Jag F-Type into the battery finder, you find "compatible" 40, 60, and 80Ah models at 16lbs, 19, and 26lbs respectively... Google says the standard F-Type battery is 95Ah and about 55lbs so, if that's accurate, the largest AG will cost about US$1400and save you 30lbs but cut your capacity by 20%, while saving 40lbs will cost you about us$950 and cut your capacity by about 60%. They like to market their batteries as "replacements" but that's really not true at all.
They're also often significantly lower capacity than the battery they claim to be a replacement for... plenty of people have bought the lightest battery then realised their car won't run properly with a battery that's less than half the capacity. If you go to their site and enter Jag F-Type into the battery finder, you find "compatible" 40, 60, and 80Ah models at 16lbs, 19, and 26lbs respectively... Google says the standard F-Type battery is 95Ah and about 55lbs so, if that's accurate, the largest AG will cost about US$850 and save you 30lbs but cut your capacity by 20%, while saving 40lbs will cost you about us$1400 and cut your capacity by about 60%. They like to market their batteries as "replacements" but that's really not true at all.
Reduced capacity is not an issue for me specifically as i have numerous sporty cars and all are driven seldom so all live on trickle chargers.
But i do understand the concern of the typical joe thinking they are paying such premiums for a direct replacement upgrade when in reality it is a downgrade in at least one aspect.
when you mention "wont run properly" can you give specific examples? To my knowledge reduced battery capacity only affects the car's ability to crank the engine when car is off, and affects how long the car can stay off parked with parasitic drain before the battery goes flat and renders the car immobile until jumped.
Last edited by JoeyTheAsian; 01-18-2024 at 08:03 PM.
yep. These appear to be avant garde m621's. Flow formed 19x11 wheels that weigh about 21 lbs a piece.
As for the brakes-- definitely not looking to go smaller. The brakes are adequate for street use but look sorely undersized for track duty if I ever choose to do so.
I wouldn't recommend smaller rotors, just lighter ones. I don't know what the brits put in their metals, but they seem to use the heaviest possible. It seems to me that an aluminum body car should weight less.
Good score on the wheels. Those are somewhere near 15 lbs lighter than stock, each.
If you have the ‘super performance’ brakes (380mm front, 376mm rear rotors), VAP is developing a two-piece rotor that would save some weight. Those brakes were an option on V6 models. The V6 base came with 355/326mm rotors (‘performance’, typically gray calipers) and the V6S had 380/326mm (‘high performance’, typically black calipers) as standard.
If you have the ‘super performance’ brakes (380mm front, 376mm rear rotors), VAP is developing a two-piece rotor that would save some weight. Those brakes were an option on V6 models. The V6 base came with 355/326mm rotors (‘performance’, typically gray calipers) and the V6S had 380/326mm (‘high performance’, typically black calipers) as standard.
He has a base model with the base ("performance") brakes, see post #1.
So already the smallest and lightest (and weakest) factory brakes for an F-Type.
@JoeyTheAsian Good for you to fit your car to your style, via the pedals.
BTW, I have been satisfied with the “base” silver brakes on my V6 Manual.
Perhaps I am not driving aggressive enough, or not driving on Alpine mountain roads (downhill) at hyper-legal speeds.
But I do like the concept of reducing sprung weight…. So will consider the brake kit upgrade with lighter weight rotors.
To address a couple of your points:
Yes, there is rev hang programmed in. A lot of modern manuals (except Porsche, I heard) have rev hang because it allows fuel to combust fully and lower emissions. I agree it's very annoying, and I don't know if it can be tuned out. I will ask VAP.
I would keep your car stock for around a year, and go for the VAP pulley + tune on their black friday sale. It would allow you to truly appreciate the platform, and when you are fully used to it, go for an upgrade. It transforms the car in my opinion, and I started with 380hp, not 40.
Wasn't aware they do a black friday sale, thanks for the tip!!
Having to do the pulley for the VAP kit would give me a good reason to take the SC off and do the sc oil and pulley coupler as well as the coolant y pipe and some other odds and ends if the car hasn't already had them done.
So far absolutely loving the car but unfortunately bent a wheel just yesterday.
NYC has some of the worst roads in America so I might need to pick up some forged replacements if I want to avoid future bends. ($$$$$)
I absolutely love how the car handles and turns in with the flow formed wheels that came on the car (~23 lbs a corner) so I don't think I could go back to the OEM lead anchors that come on the car.
Originally Posted by takeapieandrun
To address a couple of your points:
Yes, there is rev hang programmed in. A lot of modern manuals (except Porsche, I heard) have rev hang because it allows fuel to combust fully and lower emissions. I agree it's very annoying, and I don't know if it can be tuned out. I will ask VAP.
I would keep your car stock for around a year, and go for the VAP pulley + tune on their black friday sale. It would allow you to truly appreciate the platform, and when you are fully used to it, go for an upgrade. It transforms the car in my opinion, and I started with 380hp, not 40.
Last edited by JoeyTheAsian; 02-08-2024 at 05:25 PM.
01-18-2024, 07:06 PM
