New Side Power Vents
#1
New Side Power Vents
I am replacing the chrome/black side power vents with all black ones. When I searched the forum for instructions on how to remove the old and install the new vents, this is what I came up with. " The Carbon Fibre Fender Louvres: (JAF 0104_1E) : http://www.mediafire.com/view/dfrf77...er_Louvres.pdf
I'm assuming that is what the service departments use. All I could tell was to take an interior trim tool and pop the old vents from the top edge?
Anyone done this before?
I'm assuming that is what the service departments use. All I could tell was to take an interior trim tool and pop the old vents from the top edge?
Anyone done this before?
#2
#3
I am replacing the chrome/black side power vents with all black ones. When I searched the forum for instructions on how to remove the old and install the new vents, this is what I came up with. " The Carbon Fibre Fender Louvres: (JAF 0104_1E) : http://www.mediafire.com/view/dfrf77...er_Louvres.pdf
I'm assuming that is what the service departments use. All I could tell was to take an interior trim tool and pop the old vents from the top edge?
Anyone done this before?
I'm assuming that is what the service departments use. All I could tell was to take an interior trim tool and pop the old vents from the top edge?
Anyone done this before?
I think replacement of the side louvres generally results in their destruction - I recollect someone saying you had to drill a couple of holes, and pull them out using a zip tie (put through the holes), which breaks all the clips.
#4
As explained in a previous thread:
Side vent install: Lift the hood, open the door, mask off the area all around side vent (top & bottom) to prevent any possible scratches... Insert a trim removal tool at the top, center of the vent and with some force, begin prying the tool back along the top of the vent. The top clips will pop off without breaking. This will not dent the aluminum... It's very rigid at the top and behind the vent. Slide the trim removal tool down farther behind the vent while pulling it forward to snap off the bottom clips... most of them will break off (unless you were to pry from the bottom up, but this would inevitably damage your paint or possibly dent your fender). The stock vents aren't worth saving anyway and are the least expensive type to purchase if you ever wanted to go back.
The replacement vent then snaps right on with no issues.
Side vent install: Lift the hood, open the door, mask off the area all around side vent (top & bottom) to prevent any possible scratches... Insert a trim removal tool at the top, center of the vent and with some force, begin prying the tool back along the top of the vent. The top clips will pop off without breaking. This will not dent the aluminum... It's very rigid at the top and behind the vent. Slide the trim removal tool down farther behind the vent while pulling it forward to snap off the bottom clips... most of them will break off (unless you were to pry from the bottom up, but this would inevitably damage your paint or possibly dent your fender). The stock vents aren't worth saving anyway and are the least expensive type to purchase if you ever wanted to go back.
The replacement vent then snaps right on with no issues.
#6
Here's how the dealer took mine, as I watched, he opened the hood, detached the two screws that holds the side panel (the fender) put his hand inside and detached all the clips, the side vent went out complete and with no broken clips, then he reattached the screws and voila, it was done, a 15 minute job on each side.
#7
Here's how the dealer took mine, as I watched, he opened the hood, detached the two screws that holds the side panel (the fender) put his hand inside and detached all the clips, the side vent went out complete and with no broken clips, then he reattached the screws and voila, it was done, a 15 minute job on each side.
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#8
The directions from JLA clearly instruct you to pry under the vent with a trim tool... not take off the fender; which seems like it would be a complicated move. Who gives a poop if you break a couple clips? If you really cared you wouldn't be changing the piece in the first place. MI-Ftype explained the process perfectly!
Last edited by A15FS; 01-17-2015 at 10:56 PM.
#9
In this case, the removal of a few screws (designed for such purpose) offers sufficient access to properly unhook the clips which provides the elegant solution to the task.
I would heed the advice of a professional rather than to follow my own instinct to remove and destroy.
Last edited by Unhingd; 01-18-2015 at 09:21 AM.
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#10
#11
Potatoe-Potato both methods yield the same desired result. I did mine according to the supplied directions. Never thought about pulling the fender back... It makes sense though and if that's the case, they should revise the instructions. I wasn't too concerned about breaking the clips and saving the piece. I like the Carbon Fiber much better and don't see myself going back.
#12
MI-Ftype approached the issue exactly as I would have in the absence of better info. Yet, that approach still requires the application of prying and forcing which puts the paint surfaces at risk if adequate care is not taken. The engineers designed the car without factoring in the need to use a crowbar to remove various pieces.
In this case, the removal of a few screws (designed for such purpose) offers sufficient access to properly unhook the clips which provides the elegant solution to the task.
I would heed the advice of a professional rather than to follow my own instinct to remove and destroy.
In this case, the removal of a few screws (designed for such purpose) offers sufficient access to properly unhook the clips which provides the elegant solution to the task.
I would heed the advice of a professional rather than to follow my own instinct to remove and destroy.
#14
It's a Bitch
I had these replaced on my car, dealer volunteered to do it for free and I think regretted it as they said it was impressively difficult. Wheel well liner out and very little room to work (very tight space). The danger of prying it out is Aluminum bends really easy. Breaking the vent isn't anywhere near as troublesome as bending part of the fender. It looks like they snap in very easily. If the dealer screws up the fender they fix it but bending one and paying for the labor and potential paint to fix it could be impressively expensive. Now you likely could cut a hole in the center of the vent then release it but I'd leave that for braver folks than me. If I did something like this and damaged the car my wife would remind me of it for the rest of my life.
#15
I had these replaced on my car, dealer volunteered to do it for free and I think regretted it as they said it was impressively difficult. Wheel well liner out and very little room to work (very tight space). The danger of prying it out is Aluminum bends really easy. Breaking the vent isn't anywhere near as troublesome as bending part of the fender. It looks like they snap in very easily. If the dealer screws up the fender they fix it but bending one and paying for the labor and potential paint to fix it could be impressively expensive. Now you likely could cut a hole in the center of the vent then release it but I'd leave that for braver folks than me. If I did something like this and damaged the car my wife would remind me of it for the rest of my life.
I did read in the XK forum about the drilling and pulling method. Now that seems like b*tch! But on those models there is no easy way to get behind the vent without risking damage.
#16
Well, I finally got the vents and taped off the body around the first side and got nervous. The tool I have is steel which will damage the body since it stronger than the aluminum. Should the tool being used be plastic so as to not damage the body? Second, if I were to do the bolt removal method, are we talking about the two bolts that hold the fender on? I see one screw at the rear of the fender liner. The black trim piece by the door being held by the 3 screws is just left alone even though the side piece is partially in front of it? Thanks again.
#17
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#19
Well, I finally got the vents and taped off the body around the first side and got nervous. The tool I have is steel which will damage the body since it stronger than the aluminum. Should the tool being used be plastic so as to not damage the body? Second, if I were to do the bolt removal method, are we talking about the two bolts that hold the fender on? I see one screw at the rear of the fender liner. The black trim piece by the door being held by the 3 screws is just left alone even though the side piece is partially in front of it? Thanks again.
LOL... I was nervous too, but it's a minor operation. If you do use the pry method like I did you will hear the clips snapping off as you pry and pull the vent away from the body. Don't be alarmed; it isn't causing any damage to the body panel.
The trim removal tool at the top of the photo is the best one for the job.
#20