I can attest to his honesty. Dave is a straight shooter. A very nice man to deal with. If I knew or heard anything negative believe me, I would give you the heads up. I meet up with him back in my BMW days probably 5 times total. He is sincere & honest .

 

See lower right hand corner:


As an aside, it is interesting to note that they recorded 0.98 lateral g's with the 20" tires versus 0.90g with the 19" tires when testing the prior model year.

 

Now that I am wrapping up phase one of my project with VMax, it's time to focus on the clutch issue.

Buckingham, Lizzardo, and anyone else not satisfied with the grip of your MT clutch, please take the issue to your dealer and ask them to elevate it to their regional rep. This problem can be fixed, and if enough of a commotion is made, Jag may step up with a (for some, marginally satisfactory) solution like they did for the Meridian issues. If not, and like what some of the audiophiles on this forum have done, I'll have performance professionals address the problem.

 

ok...now the work begins:

 

Good luck

 

Do you have a part number for that? The bleeder side looks relatively simple to access. I'd be interested in one for disassembly, at minimum to see what's inside.

 

Have you got some pictures in different planes? Side on as well?

I'm guessing where the hex' are it can be disassembled.

 

JDE27755

1. The only place it can be disassembled is indeed at the bleed valve, which when fully inserted, does not impinge on the flow path, so the bleed assembly is not the point of constriction.
2. There is also free flow in both directions between the long tube (that goes through the bell housing and connects to the throw-out cylinder) and the bleeder chamber. (both air flow and visible light).
3. There is relatively free flow towards the tube and restricted flow in the reverse direction when the bleeder opening is capped.
4. If the flow is rapidly reversed, you can hear either a flapper or valve ball flap back and forth.
5. Looking down the pressure line fitting, it looks like the valving mechanism begins within an inch of the fitting face and most like takes up some space in the elbow.
5. Construction of the part body is done in 2 longitudinal sections that are bonded together after the valving mechanism is inserted.
6. Based on the fittings, it seems the only way to remove this device is to remove the transmission to uncouple the tube from the throw-out cylinder.

I have a thought on next steps and will advise when I have further results to report.

 

Thanks for that, and the initial analysis. If the piece isn't too expensive it might be worth a destructive analysis to see what opportunities there might be for defeating the mechanism.

 

I got mine for about $60 delivered from the UK (www.brit-car.co.uk).

However, I think I figured it out. I believe the valving is done with a small sliding piston that can easily be drilled through with a 1/8" drill bit. I now have a fitting with no restriction in either direction.





Now. if I can just figure out how to drill that hole while the TPC valve is in place. If I only had a dentist drill.

 

That's the kind of solution I had in mind. It's neither subtle nor reversible, but gets the job done.

Right-angle attachments can be had, along with flexible ones. Does the drill go in through the master cylinder side or the bleed valve side?


EDIT: Something like this:

http://www.skygeek.com/ats-n63.html

 

Master cylinder side.


At 1/5 the price that would be the perfect solution. But it certainly beats pulling the transmission.

 

This gets a little closer, but still not in your ballpark.


90 DEGREE ANGLE DRILL KIT 9885 - Cleaveland Aircraft Tool


What I've found from quick searching is that this sort of thing is more common in the aircraft mechanic's world.

 

Amazon.com 21 bucks!


Drat, saw it was for a screwdriver bit... might keep searching...

 

Maybe this... for 7 bucks... Looks to be designed for wood... 3/8 inch though... and its 4 feet long....

3/8 in. x 48 in. Flex Drill Bit


1/4 inch and only 24 inches long...

http://www.techtoolsupply.com/Canadi.../cfl-hs244.htm

 

Found the Terry N63 on ebay for $80 and a #30 drill for $1.25. If this project works we can pass this tool around the MTs on the forum.

 

Here's the project at hand:

The first picture is a downward view under the back of the engine cover. There is sufficient room to get in there with a wrench to bleed the clutch hydraulic line, so it should give adequate access to the right angle drill (shown in the 2nd and 3rd picture) after the hydraulic line is disconnected. That drill will arrive on Tuesday.

 

I would be concerned about drilling the torque limiter in the car without
removing it. The drilling operation will bring chips or plastic crumbs to
the hydraulic system of the clutch.
Most probably the plastic material contains some fibre reinforcements so
the crumbs won't be very gentle to the slave piston fitting as well as
to the piston sealing. Because density of plastic material is higher than
the density of the hydraulic fluid of the clutch system it will go down to
the slave cylinder for sure. As a result you might get a slave cylinder leakage.
Perhaps its worth to think about an alternative how to modify the torque
limiter unit in the car. Bisectioning a sample part to see how it works in
detail might help to find a smarter solution.
Best regards
Ulrich

 

Already have fully inspected a sample TPC valve and know exactly how it works. There is absolutely no downside to drilling the valve in the car other than $140 to replace the throw-out cylinder, and certainly no other way than drilling to correct the valve whether in or out of the car. The upside is not having to remove the tranny if the plastic dust does not gum up the throwout bearing. I plan on liberally flushing fluid through the valve and out the bleeder opening (bleeder valve fully removed). That may not get everything but maybe a majority of it.

Next time the transmission has to come out, I'd replace the clutch kit with a decent performance clutch in any event.

 

the throwout bearing shouldn't be gumed up by the plastic because the
bearing isn't in contact with the hydraulic fluid . So one point less to fail .
Curious about the results. Good luck !


Best regards
Ulrich