The install on older F-Types is different than mine. In the older cars you have a power steering reservoir (ZF cap). I put my catch can there as I have a 2017 and electric power steering.
The PCV valve comes out of the driver side. I am at the shop so I will go get a picture from the 2016 AWD V8R I am working on. Need a couple of minutes. When I install it on this one I will do a step by step

 

This is the hose you want to intercept, cut the clamp and 1.5" of hose, use 2 90 degrees bends (homedepot), I use brass. Make sure the catchcan is in a cool place, the colder the better.

 

There have been one or two old posts with photos and a diagram ... I recall the tech told me that there are two areas that can be connected; one is the 'high speed' hose and it produces very little oil fume return and the lower speed one is the one to connect into.
Not sure how efficient the search feature is on this site, however there had been a fair bit of posting on the topic.
Lawrence

 

Just found the old post... April 6/2017 and I called it 'Oil Can' instead of Oil catch can.. note the explanation and photos/diagram.

I now believe that the comment of a quarter cup is not accurate.. its a bit less than that.
Lawrence

 

 

Usually walnut blasting, or similar, becomes a regular part of maintenance.

 

As I posted in another thread, some manufacturers make a 60K miles service interval maintenance for walnut blasting. I personally like soda blasting better

 

 

I was looking for a liquid for an amplifier barrel. First you need to remove the engine compartment air duct. I warn you that there is probably a less labor-intensive way, but I did everything blindly, because in other places the whole process boiled down to one sentence - they removed the air duct. Then I need to find more tools, I ordered everything from automotto. I had a packing film at hand, and it went into action when I was covering the generator. I asked a friend to help me with the barrel and liquid, and we managed to make a replacement, we merged everything in advance and restored the process in the engine.

 

Back to the original topic of octane boosters. This is a fun topic for me because of all the misinformation and snake oil sales about it. A lot of people are totally wrong on octane. Higher octane does not in itself make horsepower. The LOWER the octane you can run without pinging will make more hp. Higher octane which burns slower to avoid knock or pinging ALLOWS you to make more HP by using higher compression, more timing advance, and in general a more radical engine. Without changing anything in the engine you will make LESS hp with higher octane.

 

generally true due to the lower heat of combustion for higher octane blend components.

 

And what can be funny if people will also argue about it. Everyone knows perfectly well how and when to determine the octane number. You will not argue if I say that there is more of it in the fuel for airplanes. Of course, many people do not know this. What do you mean when you say snake oil? How can we even talk about some oil in the conversation about the octane number? When I bought liquids for the car on automotto, I also began to pay attention to what the manufacturer writes. And many things have become a little clearer although I still do not understand the difference with 10-01 liquids

 

“Snake Oil” refers to the elixirs sold back in the late 1800s that were a concoction of who knows what that unscrupulous salesman sold to cure practically anything that ailed you but didn’t do more than empty your wallet. In this context it was referring to some of the octane boosters that kinda fall into the same category.
No disrespect intended. I was just referring to personal experience with octave levels from back when I was racing. A stock motor made more hp on 85 octane than it did on 112 race gas. The motor didn’t need higher octane until compression was increased and more radical parts were added.

 

Using Boostane or VPRacing octane booster works well. Add half a can to 10 gallons of 93octane to insure you have the octane needed for a 93 tuned car. Sometimes gas with ethanol content +_10% doesn’t always make 93 octane.

 

Few chemical additive compounds have an anti-knock rating that exceeds 130 and they all blend in and result in roughly an octane increase proportional to how much is blended into the fuel. Therefor, mixing 12 oz. of anything into 10 gallons of gas won't give you more than a fraction of an octane point increase (~0.5). That's ok if that's all you're looking for. The exception to this are a class of metal containing compounds that will have a non-linear effect on the octane, tetra-ethyl lead being one of them, and the primary octane booster used pre-EPA days. Using TEL in modern cars would lead to failure of a number of systems including primary the cats and perhaps also the injectors and plugs.

 

the purpose is to get that extra octane point to be sure you are getting the best out of the 93 octane tune for fuels that are rated 93 or 94 but with ethanol mixed in the achieve that. Boostane does exactly that!

 

Isn’t a slower burn with higher octane also mean a more complete burn so there’s less left over residue? I always thought using higher octane would help clean the combustion chamber so that when you go back to normal 93 octane without any additives, you’re running at your maximum potential.

I run Lucas fuel treatment every once and while (~2-3k miles), a water remover when the temp changes drastically, and an octane booster every 5-10k miles. I did this in my V8 range with a ton of mods and was able to put 177k miles on it.

One thing I did start using recently is cataclean with the F Type. With all the backfire for the cranks and pops (basically unburned gas) I think it destroys your catalytic converter over time with a build up of crap that eventually becomes restrictive. Cataclean supposedly helps remove that build up. I’m hoping this is preventative care for the cats. I can’t say for sure but if $30 for a bottle for the next 5 years saves me from spending $1200 for a new set of cats...