Just wondering if this odor is a concern when starting up AC. Goes away after a couple of minutes, but not interesting in finding out later that there's mold or something else hiding somewhere... do I need a new cabin filter or is that not part of the AC system? Live in Wisconsin with moderate climate during the summer.

 

For sure, check/replace the cabin filter.

Then assure that the A/C's condensate drain is flowing freely, under the car.

If all checks out, use a cabin filter that contains charcoal (Hepa filter).

 

The cabin filter is a doddle to remove, inspect, clean or replace if necessary, takes all of two minutes to remove. New ones are also fairly cheap.
It's in the engine bay just under one of the plastic covers up by the windscreen, mounted vertically. On my RHD car it's the left side (larger) cover, probably the same on a LHD car but maybe the other side!
Just take the cover off (four easy to remove plastic push pins) then flip the filter enclosure lid open (a little latch at each end), grab the filter and pull it up and out. It sits in a tray which sits in the enclosure, you may find it easier to take the tray out with the filter.
Unlikely it is all that dirty or mouldy, mine was still like new after six years, but easy enough to clean or replace.
Maybe spray some air freshener/mould remover/whatever in the enclosure while you have the filter out.

 

Ditto on OzXFR's recommendation to treat your evaporator and heater core while you have the cabin air microfilter out. Several companies make products specifically for eliminating odors due to mold and other accumulation on the evaporator and heater core. I like the ones that come with a long tube to help direct the product into the evaporator/heater core area. Here are a couple of examples:






Cheers,

Don

 

Have investigated the cabin filter, and yes, easy. Took it out and checked for dirt/ contaminants. Nothing. Will change it anyway. Need some guidance on that spray cleaner. Is it just a matter of sticking the hose down where the cabin filter was? I'm used to my vintage British where the heater cores are pretty obvious. A lot of 'stuff' on this one, so want to make sure I'm proceeding correctly. Thank you all for your help!

 

The products usually come with instructions, but the general idea is that you use the long tube to direct the product into the area where the A/C evaporator and heater core are mounted, in the center console.

Access points can include the dash center vents, the cabin microfilter mounting area, the blower motor housing, the ductwork under the dash, floor vents,etc. Ideally, you can find a route to feed the tube into the space between the heater core and evaporator if possible, and also the outer faces of the core and evaporator. The outer face of the evaporator can usually be reached through the dash center vents. To get the tube into the vee between the core and evaporator usually requires feeding it into the ductwork from the side, either through the cabin filter plenum, the ductwork under the dash, the blower motor housing, the floor vents, etc.

Before you apply the product, follow Carbuff2's advice and confirm that your evaporator drains are clear.

Cheers,

Don

 

I hope you do not have the same problem that I had with my Jeep.
There was a smell like wet hay upon starting the AC.
AC seemed to work OK for several weeks until it did not.
Diagnosed as leaking system - cost $2.5K on a Jeep!!
Might want to get it leak tested.

 

I can check the drain(s) if it doesn't require a lift. I can skinny under some of the car, but not all. Is the drain easy to see from underneath? general area? Then for spraying the cleaner, are you saying to just stuff the tube down the center vent? It closes when not active, so does the car need to be running for this procedure? I think I'll check out a YT video for orientation.

 

What I do is remove the cabin filter completely. Start the car and put the blower on high speed. I use plain old Lysol and spray a good bit in the cabin filter opening and let the blower suck it in and distribute it around the HVAC system. I do this several times and on the last one before I reinstall the cabin filter I run the blend doors back and forth moving the air flow from defroster to dash vents to floor vents to further spread the disinfectant.

Thus usually fixes it BUT depending on the car and how bad it is I have had to do this several times.
Spraying anything in the vents is useless. It just blows back out? The tube Don shows should be put in where the cabin filter is and then spray. I have not used the product Don posted so have no direct experience but don't see why it would not work fine?
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Thank you for a very complete description of the process. That's what I thought, the vents would just blow it back out... putting it down in the cabin filter area should do it..
No worries about the cleaner coming out into the car interior?

It's not a really bad smell, or very long lasting. The car was built late 2016, so now is almost 8 years old. I got it at 24K miles in fall of 2020. AC runs perfectly while and after smell dissipates.

 

I have used Lysol in the past as well with good results. I set the A/C on recirculate and spray the Lysol in wherever the air intake inside the cabin used to recirculate the air is.

 

The reason to apply some of the product through the center vents is because those vents are typically in line with the outer/rearward face of the evaporator, and this is the best way to get the product onto that surface.

It is important to allow the product to soak onto the evaporator and core before you ever think about turning on the blower motor. It is possible for some product to emerge from the vents when the blower motor is eventually powered on, but you can always tape towels in front of the vents if you're concerned about that. As I said, follow the instructions that come with the product. I've had excellent results with three or four brands. Just be sure you get one that comes with a long tube - not all brands do.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you for the clarification of spraying in the center vent. I can certainly do that, but is there a way to keep the center vent up when the blower motor is off? This is a US MY2017 . Vent lowers when fan is shut off and/or car shut off.. I will investigate the climate control options.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-vents-212730/

 

I think that even if you select the Always Open option for the center vents, they will still close when you shut off the engine. With the system on and the vents open, you could try inserting something long, narrow and soft, like a plastic ink pen, then shutting off the system to see if the vents are held open.

And just to try to be clear, the face of the evaporator that can be accessed via the center vents is only one surface you will need to treat. Usually, the real problem is the area between the evaporator and the heater core, where gunk and mold tend to accumulate, especially if the evaporator drain becomes clogged.

Some detailing companies have equipment for cleaning the ducts in the dash with steam. Steam is injected into the vents at one end of the dash and emerges through the center and other end vents.

Cheers,

Don

 

What does R22 smell like?
R-22 Freon, like R-410A, is non-toxic and non-flammable. Although R-22 is relatively odorless, a few Freon brands do emit the faint smell of ether in high concentrations.
This smell can seem slightly sweet, giving the semblance of freshly mowed grass.
Not sure what refrigerant is in your F-Type but it could have a similar smell

 

R-22 Freon was a refrigerant used in residential and commercial HVAC systems. R-12 Freon was the contemporaneous refrigerant used in automobiles, but in the early '90s was phased out and replaced by R-134a refrigerant (the trademarked brand Freon was no longer used with R-134a). R-134a refrigerant does have a faint detectible "chemical" or "soapy" odor, but it would not be mistaken for moldiness or mustiness.

In the latest vehicles, R-134a is being replaced by R-1234yf, which is said to have a lower "Global Warming Potential" (GWP).

Cheers,

Don

 

I agree, Don. Does not smell like swamp - more like mown grass
Hopefully, Valerie's car does not smell like grass!!

 

hi Valerie check our “ac smells musty” from member SJones, has a solution to clogged duckbill drain. Good luck and let us know what worked for you to mitigate the ac odor. Cheers Frank

 

After reading all these posts, I think what I may have is just AC startup smell. It's gone in less than a minute, the AC cools great and at this point no other issues. I did have the system pressure checked before the warranty was up. The cabin filters are not that big a deal to buy and replace. Found a couple of likely candidates for the cleaner, with the tube.
I did check out the duckbill thread, but not sure I can figure out where that is on a 6 cyl F. And, I should also check the drain, but so far, not having any luck figuring out where that is, much less the access.
I found this post from 2022 by kb58:

There was a thread here about four months ago where someone had the same problem. He solved it by closing all the vents and putting the fan on "High", which blew out the blockage. Try that first. He also said that the F-type A/C drain is extremely hard to get at.

There was also another XK thread that mentioned whacking some interior drain part on the firewall, but that was for cars where the condensate was pouring in to the footwell:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...in-fix-135630/

 

I had a Mazda RX8 that had a really bad smell when the air conditioner started up. Turns out it was two dead mice stuck to the cabin filter!

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