50,000 miles on 1 oil change? Then are you changing the air filters more often? And why aren't you worried about moisture contamination? Just curious.

 

I didn’t say one oil change. I said what oil I’ve been running.

 

See... this is what i'm saying about people just spouting opinions as facts. What evidence do you have that chain wear issues have anything to do with direct injection? Because they're completely independent of eachother. There are vehicles out there with port injection that have chain wear issues too... And sludge has been an issue in poorly maintained/worn engines for decades. This isn't new to direct injection. Now carbon buildup in the intake runners is a direct injection only issue and should have been your example...

 

I buy this at Walmart. Use in my 2015 XKR with no problems. I think this is the same stuff the dealer uses just with a different name...

 

Hi, I have been using 0W20 Special Tec LR (5 Liter) - Liqui Moly LM20410 either from Amazon or FCP Euro where I purchased from, hope this helps

 

Too bad... I was hoping you uncovered a secret.

 

Castrol recommends

Castrol 06244 EDGE A3/B4 0W-30 (European Formula)

which you can currently buy on Amazon for $42.43 (after 20% discount) for 6 quarts. Castrol also recommends that, as an alternative, you can use the same oil in a 0W-40 weight, which Amazon sells in a 5-quart jug for $22.38.

 

Just use 0w20 full synthetic. You do not have to use JLR branded oil.
I would suggest Castrol to keep it as close to OEM as possible, but Mobil1 works just as well.
As long as you can prove you used comparable product, it will not set up any red flags.

 

I bought my oil and filter from this website who shipped it to my house in 3 days:

https://www.carid.com/

 

You have not kept up with industry news. What I said "direct injection engine that is prone to chain wear and sludge on intake" is a non-controversial statement, to the point that even new GF-6 oil spec has a test for this.

Start your reading here:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...01679X15000432
https://www.sae.org/publications/tec.../2019-01-0301/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...01679X14002370

Also, here is accessible summary:

MOTOR Magazine | eNewsletter | November 22, 2016 | Minimizing Timing Chain Wear

You mentioned that you are an automotive engineer, yet you don't know this. So what do you design exactly?

Sure, but DI has two effects: a) high pressure fuel pump puts more load on the timing chain that in non-DI only has to do timing b) DI contaminates oil with abrasive carbon microparticles that increase chain wear. Also, c) oil change intervals are now longer and oil is thinner due to EPA requirements but this simply coincides with DI. In the past chain wear issue was the result of design deficiencies (e.g. 80s Mercedes V8 with a single row timing chain) and could be fixed (e.g. dual row conversion). Today, chain wear issue is the result of technology limitations and cannot be fixed (i.e. there is no conversion). Realistically, you can only change your engine oil more frequently. None of these DI engines will make it to a million miles and you have EPA fleet mileage standards to thank for it.

Sludge is a bigger issue in modern engines for a number of reasons. One - some blow by is more common today due to thinner oil and tolerances optimized for reduced friction ( a way to increase mileage) that say in 2000s-era engines. Two - direct injection combined with recurculation results in intake oil deposits, but what starts there doesn't stop there, as sludge on intakes results in more sludge everywhere. Three - lifetime emissions calculations pushed recommended oil change intervals into unreasonably long territory. 1 +2 +3 and you have sludge that is a common issue.

How do you largely mitigate both of these issues? Half your oil change interval and use quality spec oil. My understanding of titanium additive is that it is modern equivalent of zinc.

 

Thank you! I have said it time and time again, there is absolutely no cost savings going cheap on maintenance for the long haul. I have examples hanging on my shop wall of what happens when you go to the "We Be Lubes and Sh*t" type places and DIY on the cheap! At double or even triple the cost for a proper lube, oil and filter change and inspection vs cheapo, you will "NEVER" save enough money to pay for a major repair caused by being cheap!

I must add though that it pays to check with the manufacturer for recommendation changes. As engines evolve and real world driving adds up verses the engineering testing that took place before the vehicle was built so do the requirements and recommendations. Today's GDI and Homogeneous engines are very picky and being cheap even only once can lead to a huge repair bill.

 

I'd be careful following Amazon's recommendation for alternative oils. Especially for Jaguar. The way I understand it is that the recommendations for the engine oils have specific additives that are needed by the engine sensors.

 

Your arguments and examples every time someone says something you disagree with on this forum is the equivalent of a person yelling fire in a crowded room because someone lit a candle. Tune your engine? It's gonna explode! Warranty on your entire car, gone! These are not systemic issues that every car on the road experiences. DI engines do not just have massive sludge problems because they have adequate filtration systems to deal with results of the technology. Did you know, not all high pressure fuel pumps are run off the timing chain? The F-type for example... an auxiliary chain system. Technology has improved; systems have improved. We do not need to be scared of treating a vehicle like a normal car. Jaguar's poor long term reliability is gonna kill these cars before anything oil related does. Internally failing radiator fans, failing superchargers... we've got bigger things to worry about.

 

The Mobil ONE 15-50W is high zinc. I used it in my modified 1991 ZR-1 Corvette for years. The 50W is a bit thick, though.

 

This answer is generic to all engines, all manufacturers of those engines(OEM), the component manufacturers (pistons, rings, timing components, etc) and those companies who spend time doing failure analysis. Over time the original manufacturer (OEM) of the engine may issue updated requirements/specs based on observations from the above outside sources and their own observations. OEM Oil recommendation changes over the last 10 years have been on an upswing with the increased demands of new types of components and materials used and the way they are being used. Also the life expectancy of $$$ emission components has become a bigger factor as many are one year and some times only part of a year in use before being replaced with a new yet not backwards compatible design. Some of these emission components are affected by the byproducts of the oil used. A certain OEM I know of has a problem with catalysts. They found that it was being caused by owners changing the oil too often so have mandated that oil should never be changed before the recommended time or mileage. Also they have mandated that a specific oil be used that does less damage to the catalyst and yet meets their requirements for making sure the vehicle survives the warranty period. Here is the problem, since the oil changes are fewer and the other problems that crop up when they are extended the OEM's in conjunction with the oil companies and the API are working together to make new oils that not only address these issues but also will meet the new Gov. pollution and emission mandates that are being implemented on motor oils and their additives.

I know engine oil discussions have always been a contentious and heavily debated topic but demands, requirements, reliability, and emission mandates have made each and every aspect of today's engine the responsibility of the OEM and they are trying their best to make sure we will have a vehicle from them in the future

If you want some deep reading on the latest in engine oil certifications and requirements I suggest you go to the API website -
https://www.api.org/products-and-ser...oil-categories
API and ILSAC New Oil Certifications

 

Since you decided civility is optional and chose to misconstrue my words, I will simply point out that you weren't even aware of GF-6 chain test requirement before I pointed it out to you. Perhaps you shouldn't try to present your opinion as an expert's by repeatedly playing an automotive engineer card.

You are also unjustifiably dismissive of DI issues that showed up universally across most makes and models. Sludge and DI are synonymous in any used car, just talk to any mechanic in any garage. Whatever your colleagues that are designing engines are doing, they are doing quite a poor job across the board getting DI to work reliably. Failed pumps, failed injectors, sludge, buildup, chain wear... and all of that for measly 1-2% fuel efficiency gain? Especially at BMW, that hasn't released a reliable engine since M30. 20K oil change intervals and they ALL developed sludge issues right out of warranty. Wallnut blasting machine is a mandatory equipment for any BMW shop these days. I get it, EPA mandates, but that excuse goes only that far. Engineers had now almost 10 years to sort it all out and it still hugely problematic. To the point that chemists had to pick up slack and develop oils to solve engine design flaws. Yes, these additives are necessary because designs are bad. I think only Mazda is doing anywhere near what I would consider a decent job, too bad I am too tall to ever fit into MX-5. Even Toyota quality slipped, but maybe that just BMW taint.

 

The facts and fictions of GDI

 

Yes the demands for fuel economy and emissions have really changed the demands on oil and created a few new problems and emphasized a few older problems. Back when we had wet induction systems (carbs and throttle body injection it was not a big problem. But when port fuel systems came around we discovered how much sludge and carbon build up before the injector could cause issues over time. Now with GDI the oil and combustion by products from the EGR and crankcase ventilation systems has become a huge issue. Todays oil formulations for GDI engines are starting to address the carbon build up issue around the intake valve but it will always be a maintenance issue. I remember many years ago in the early days of EFI port fuel systems a certain Japanese auto MFG addressed the carbon build up issue by installing an injector behind the throttle body that would spray just a tiny amount of fuel that kept the intake ports clean. Now that was attention to details.