oil burning at alarming rate
#1
oil burning at alarming rate
Recently noticed the car is burning oil at an alarming rate, over the course of ~2 months ~2000 miles it burned 2 full quarts. Last top off was done today, oil mark was at half way between Max and Min, it required a full quart to bring back to Max.
IIRC Max to Min should represent exactly one quart, so not sure what's going on here.
Car is running great as usual and there's no smoke from the exhaust, engine bay and drive way are dry.
Any suggestion on where to start diagnosing?
2015 R with VAP goodies, 25xxx miles.
And yes, all measurement was done on level ground both cold and warm, and the oil used is oem.
IIRC Max to Min should represent exactly one quart, so not sure what's going on here.
Car is running great as usual and there's no smoke from the exhaust, engine bay and drive way are dry.
Any suggestion on where to start diagnosing?
2015 R with VAP goodies, 25xxx miles.
And yes, all measurement was done on level ground both cold and warm, and the oil used is oem.
#2
Sounds like my old XJ6 (1985)
Had about 30K miles and used a quart / 1,000 miles.
Did not smoke, so I guess they just burn oil efficiently!
Are you using more fuel?
Not sure whether it applies here but (on boat diesels) failed injectors can lead to fuel mixing with oil - might "raise" oil level but also might cause the oil to burn off.
Good luck sortting it out.
Had about 30K miles and used a quart / 1,000 miles.
Did not smoke, so I guess they just burn oil efficiently!
Are you using more fuel?
Not sure whether it applies here but (on boat diesels) failed injectors can lead to fuel mixing with oil - might "raise" oil level but also might cause the oil to burn off.
Good luck sortting it out.
#3
Could have a leak being caught by underpanel or you are burning oil but not visible compared to when a shitbox Honda burns oil. I would check the exhaust tips for any residue. If there is, wipe down and recheck. The tune and higher boost may help burn a little extra oil. Also could have PCV partial blockage helping burn oil. I'll leave Consumption test instruction here if you get to that point.
COMPONENT TEST - OIL CONSUMPTION TEST
The following are examples of conditions that can affect oil consumption rates:
Make sure the selected engine oil meets Jaguar specification and the recommended API Performance category "SG" and SAE viscosity grade as shown in the vehicle Owner's Guide. It is also important that the engine oil is changed at the intervals specified for the typical operating conditions.
NOTE:Oil use is normally greater during the first 16,100 km (10,000 miles) of service. As mileage increases, oil use decreases. High speed driving, towing, high ambient temperature and other factors may result in greater oil use.
NOTE:If the oil consumption rate is unacceptable go to Step 4.
COMPONENT TEST - OIL CONSUMPTION TEST
GENERAL REMARKS
The amount of oil an engine uses will vary with the way the vehicle is driven in addition to normal engine-to-engine variation. This is especially true during the first 16,100 km (10,000 miles) when a new engine is being broken in or until certain internal components become conditioned. Vehicles used in heavy-duty operation may use more oil. The following are examples of heavy-duty operation:- Trailer towing applications
- Severe loading applications
- Sustained high speed operation
- Cylinder block cylinder walls
- Pistons and piston rings
- Intake and exhaust valve stems
- Intake and exhaust valve guides
- All internal engine components
The following are examples of conditions that can affect oil consumption rates:
- Engine size
- Operator driving habits
- Ambient temperatures
- Quality and viscosity of oil
- Engine is being run in an overfilled condition (check the oil level at least five minutes after a hot shutdown with the vehicle parked on a level surface. The oil level should not be above the top of the cross-hatched area and the letter "F" in FULL).
Make sure the selected engine oil meets Jaguar specification and the recommended API Performance category "SG" and SAE viscosity grade as shown in the vehicle Owner's Guide. It is also important that the engine oil is changed at the intervals specified for the typical operating conditions.
TEST PROCEDURE
The following diagnostic procedure is used to determine the source of excessive oil consumption.NOTE:Oil use is normally greater during the first 16,100 km (10,000 miles) of service. As mileage increases, oil use decreases. High speed driving, towing, high ambient temperature and other factors may result in greater oil use.
- Define excessive consumption, such as the number of miles driven per liter of oil used. Also determine customers driving habits, such as sustained high speed operation, towing, extended idle and other considerations.
- Verify that the engine has no external oil leaks as described under Engine Oil Leaks in this section.
- Carry out an oil consumption test:
-
- Run the engine to normal operating temperature. Switch engine OFF and allow oil to drain back for at least five minutes .
- With vehicle parked on level surface, check the engine oil level.
- If required, add engine oil to set level exactly to the FULL mark.
- Record the vehicle mileage.
- Instruct the customer to return for a level check after driving the vehicle as usual for 1,610 km (1000 miles).
- Check the oil level under the same conditions and at the same location as the initial check.
-
NOTE:If the oil consumption rate is unacceptable go to Step 4.
- Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not plugged.
- Check for plugged oil drain-back holes in the cylinder head and cylinder block.
- If the condition still exists after carrying out the above tests go to step 9.
- Carry out a cylinder compression test. Refer to the Cylinder Compression Test procedure in this section. This can help determine the source of oil consumption such as valves, piston rings or other areas.
- Check valve guides for excessive guide clearance. Install new valve stem seals after verifying valve guide clearance.
- Worn or damaged internal engine components can cause excessive oil consumption. Small deposits of oil on the tips of the spark plugs can be a clue to internal oil consumption.
#4
Sounds like my old XJ6 (1985)
Had about 30K miles and used a quart / 1,000 miles.
Did not smoke, so I guess they just burn oil efficiently!
Are you using more fuel?
Not sure whether it applies here but (on boat diesels) failed injectors can lead to fuel mixing with oil - might "raise" oil level but also might cause the oil to burn off.
Good luck sortting it out.
Had about 30K miles and used a quart / 1,000 miles.
Did not smoke, so I guess they just burn oil efficiently!
Are you using more fuel?
Not sure whether it applies here but (on boat diesels) failed injectors can lead to fuel mixing with oil - might "raise" oil level but also might cause the oil to burn off.
Good luck sortting it out.
No light or stored code, car runs and feels issue free, so don't think it's bad injectors.
Could have a leak being caught by underpanel or you are burning oil but not visible compared to when a shitbox Honda burns oil. I would check the exhaust tips for any residue. If there is, wipe down and recheck. The tune and higher boost may help burn a little extra oil. Also could have PCV partial blockage helping burn oil. I'll leave Consumption test instruction here if you get to that point.
What does oil residue look like on the exhaust, oily? I just wiped them down and it is pretty dry and black soot.
#5
Just double checked this thread and half way is 1 quart, so there is that, the oil level gauge is at least working correctly.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...eading-231500/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...eading-231500/
#6
Changed my oil today with liqui moly oil change kit from fcpeuro. Bone dry underneath the car so the oil were indeed burnt. Also used engine flush this time and replaced the drain plug anyways. Gonna watch closely what happens in the next few thousand miles.
Mity vac ordered on the way so I can do my own change next time and also take advantage of the fcpeuro life time replacement.
Mity vac ordered on the way so I can do my own change next time and also take advantage of the fcpeuro life time replacement.
#7
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#8
Yeah MPG has been consistent and normal for the driving I do, it has always been ~16gals for ~180miles. it will never get closer to the pusblished MPG living in NYC, my long term average speed is less than 20mph
#9
Changed my oil today with liqui moly oil change kit from fcpeuro. Bone dry underneath the car so the oil were indeed burnt. Also used engine flush this time and replaced the drain plug anyways. Gonna watch closely what happens in the next few thousand miles.
Mity vac ordered on the way so I can do my own change next time and also take advantage of the fcpeuro life time replacement.
Mity vac ordered on the way so I can do my own change next time and also take advantage of the fcpeuro life time replacement.
#10
Cat is relatively new, 200 cell cats from VAP installed earlier this year, do they clog up that quick? What'd be done to check if they are indeed clogged?
and how much mechanical hours am I looking at to perform these procedures posted by rummy636?
- Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not plugged.
- Check for plugged oil drain-back holes in the cylinder head and cylinder block.
- If the condition still exists after carrying out the above tests go to step 9.
- Carry out a cylinder compression test. Refer to the Cylinder Compression Test procedure in this section. This can help determine the source of oil consumption such as valves, piston rings or other areas.
- Check valve guides for excessive guide clearance. Install new valve stem seals after verifying valve guide clearance.
- Worn or damaged internal engine components can cause excessive oil consumption. Small deposits of oil on the tips of the spark plugs can be a clue to internal oil consumption.
#11
Unfortunately, I have no specific information on how quickly F-Type catalytic converters may clog. The cats are one place oil can end up though.
Another is the coolant, again this is not specific to an F-Type. Have you checked the coolant level?
Also if the procedure to check oil consumption yields no results they have dyes that can be added to the oil to help check for leaks. You then search for the leak with an ultraviolet light.
Another is the coolant, again this is not specific to an F-Type. Have you checked the coolant level?
Also if the procedure to check oil consumption yields no results they have dyes that can be added to the oil to help check for leaks. You then search for the leak with an ultraviolet light.
#12
Unfortunately, I have no specific information on how quickly F-Type catalytic converters may clog. The cats are one place oil can end up though.
Another is the coolant, again this is not specific to an F-Type. Have you checked the coolant level?
Also if the procedure to check oil consumption yields no results they have dyes that can be added to the oil to help check for leaks. You then search for the leak with an ultraviolet light.
Another is the coolant, again this is not specific to an F-Type. Have you checked the coolant level?
Also if the procedure to check oil consumption yields no results they have dyes that can be added to the oil to help check for leaks. You then search for the leak with an ultraviolet light.
Can't feel anything wrong with the motor, pulls hard through out the whole rev range without hiccups.
The dye seems like an interesting idea, also looks like something that can be done DIY easily, will look into it.
#13
#14
Yes I always tell the mech how much to fill and confirm via the dash afterward. Most places can't be bothered to fill, warm, wait 5 minutes, and check level again, so I bought a mityvac and necessary tools to do my own oil changes now, I actually did a double oil change this time, one at the shop for lift access and change the drain plug, another one at home myself, since I ordered the oil from FCP euro and wanted to try their lifetime warranty.
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