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Just bought the engine oil from authorized dealer and the price is crazy. $23.00 per liter. They are manufactured by BP (British Petroleum).
Castrol is owned by BP (as of 2002). Even though you can buy the right oil meeting STYJLR.51.5122 specs for about US$11/liter on Amazon, I'm guessing the freight to HK would more than double the cost.
I am a total DYI guy when it comes to oil changes, but I've noticed dealer oil changes even showing on CarFax reports now. It seems that would be a big deal to a future buyer. As one of the people above saying every time he goes to the dealer, something is broken - I hear you, I feel your pain.
I am a total DYI guy when it comes to oil changes, but I've noticed dealer oil changes even showing on CarFax reports now. It seems that would be a big deal to a future buyer. As one of the people above saying every time he goes to the dealer, something is broken - I hear you, I feel your pain.
Chatted with a Castrol rep about getting the secret elixir oil as where I am it is in bulk at the Jag dealer only ( subject to the doesn't ship to Canada usual restrictions ) on oils etc from eBay...solution being to have it shipped to nearby border town.
He mentioned not that great a difference between Edge with tungsten and EdgePro and mentioned not a big deal to put the Edge in for the winter storage phase if not on a regular basis.
So question....how many of "us" use the special elixir only, how many who store the car for the winter change out the oil for new...and if new, special elixir or "other".
Next question....anyone had any reports on the necessity to use the Professional Edge ?
Thanks,
Alan
I use the specified stuff from the dealer; my car only needs an oil change once a year so the cost difference is negligible. My car is stored inside (heated but only to 10 deg. C in the winter) and I don't bother doing an extra oil change for the 6 months of sitting.
I was checking out Rock Auto website the other day and they showed 5 or 6 different manufacturers for F Type oil filters. Does anyone know who the OEM Jaguar manufacturer is? Thanks.
It's either a Mann or Mahle, but built in China for 80 cents to $1.50 (if you order several thousand).
Part number 8W93-6A692-AC (I'm looking at a new one right now).
My car was purchased a year after the dealer took it into inventory so I demanded the dealer follow the manual and change the oil (only 175 miles) but a year old.
I finally figured out how to check the oil level - and determined it was overfilled by the Jag dealer. 1,500 miles.
Took it back, to have the remove some. Service Mgr said sorry, the took out a quart and half.
Drove home, let it settle, on flat ground, and checked again. STILL OVERFILLED.
This time I purchased an extractor pump from Harbor Freight for about $20 and did it myself. Pumped out another quart with the small clear tube to get the car at 1 bar down to make sure there was room for expansion with sporty driving. Checked at various times and either shows full bars or 1 bar down which is the way I prefer it.
Lesson learned; before driving away from the dealership, I will let it settle so I can read the level to verify it is topped off correctly.
So do you think this is this just a V8 and/or AWD issue or should all of us be worried about overfilling??
It's mostly an AWD thing. The oil pan was reconfigured to accommodate the front drive mechanism and the sump capacity was consequently reduced. Many of the dealers are still filling the AWDs with the same amount of oil as they always have for the RWDs.
Originally Posted by Misujerr
Also, I was thinking (uh-oh ) would it be possible to make some sort of dip stick & use it by putting down the suction hole?
No reason why not. Just need to calibrate it against the electronic stick when it's showing the proper level.
Also, I was thinking (uh-oh ) would it be possible to make some sort of dip stick & use it by putting down the suction hole?
Great idea.
[QUOTE=Unhingd;1629673]It's mostly an AWD thing. The oil pan was reconfigured to accommodate the front drive mechanism and the sump capacity was consequently reduced. Many of the dealers are still filling the AWDs with the same amount of oil as they always have for the RWDs.
I did not realize that there was a sump change from non AWD models. Good to know Unhingd - you are a plethora of good info!
I think the primary reason it is overfilled is a combination of not being able to get out all the old oil (as with all oil changes unless allowed hours to drain), and having the time and patience to "partially fill", let it sit, then check the level, and then top off, then let it sit, then check again, then say "OK" - as you would do at home DIY style.
[QUOTE=Unhingd;1629673]It's mostly an AWD thing. The oil pan was reconfigured to accommodate the front drive mechanism and the sump capacity was consequently reduced. Many of the dealers are still filling the AWDs with the same amount of oil as they always have for the RWDs.
No reason why not. Just need to calibrate it against the electronic stick when it's showing the proper level.[/QUOTE
Sorry in advance for possibly an ignorant question, so with AWD, does the car take slightly less total oil volume to fill to full?, and if so, perhaps the electronic dip sticks are not properly re-calibrated, thus showing 1/4 (or slightly more) low?
CRS
No, I think it is simply that the techs are not using the correct documentation, order up the wrong amount of oil, and pour it in.
Having used vacuum extraction on two boats and two cars, I know you get almost all of the oil out. It does not take any longer to suck until all you get is air.
There is no need to wait and check if you pour the right amount of oil in to begin with.
My one experience, and I was overfilled, was that the tech got 8 qts of oil. I do not know how much of that he poured in, but he should have picked up 7 qts and poured in 6.5. It isn't rocket science, especially if it is coming out of qt or liter bottles.
I ordered the extractor that Unhinged recommended and got the oil off Amazon. When you can't trust a dealer to do an oil change correctly when they charge $300+ do it yourself.
A 7-liter one may not require a secondary pan, bucket, collector?
Yes, that vacuum extractor is appropriate; I have used it for years, and it works very well - but as with any oil change, the oil should be warm or else the time to remove it is considerable. Given the fuss nowadays of removing the covers under the engine, a tool like this is very handy. Not as good as removing the drain plug, perhaps, but a lot cleaner!
I found this online Jaguar Owners Info... 2016 F-Type - Mine is AWD.
It says AWD is 13.7 pints (6.85 Quarts) vs 15.3 pints (7.65 Quarts) for the RWD vehicle. Interesting.
At my next dealer oil change, as it is included at no charge for 2016, I will instruct them to add ONLY 6 QUARTS, and I will carry home a quart. I will let it settle overnight, check the electronic oil level gauge, and top off myself.
12-15-2016, 08:16 AM
) would it be possible to make some sort of dip stick & use it by putting down the suction hole?
