You are right I should have said engine HP class instead of the F-Type's class, especially with a 2.0T version. Good point on other JLR vehicles, but the use of 0W-20 in monster motors is still limited to JLR, AFAICT.

 

So Jaguar doesn't understand CAFE standards, but has to build cars to meet them. Castrol doesn't understand oil, but has been producing it for over 100 years and is heavily involved in racing? But you understand both better? Mkay...

 

My school of thought is oil changes minimum every 5k miles. Follow manufactures recommendations for all fluids. Generally can't go wrong if you do that. I use to do all my own oil changes.
Don't anymore. Costs plus disposal and time not worth it to me anymore. Gmc does my oil changes on my truck and Terrain. Full synthetic and tire rotation $55 out the door.
Not worth my time or effort for that price. My Jaguar dealer charged $170 could I do it cheaper yes... add in my time and getting rid of old oil its a wash to me.

I have been told using mitivac does not get everything out of the pan. Change from the drain is the best I was told any thoughts on this?

 

Just added a can of BG44K Platinum when I refueled today. The challenge will be burning through 1-2 tanks of gas before the oil change - I see some cruises to nowhere coming up.

Some have said it's designed to be vacuumed out, and dealers do it this way, but I have no personal knowledge either way. I will have some extra drain plugs, as they come with this oil change kit and I don't use them (MityVac). I'm able to take the old oil to my local transfer station.

 

On the BG44K isn't that a fuel treatment? Why does it have to be done before an oil change?

 

Yes it's a fuel system treatment.
You don't HAVE to use it before an oil change but it makes sense to change the oil a few hundred miles after you have added it, coz it dissolves sludge/build up/carbon deposits from the combustion chambers and other places (just not the backs of the inlet valves or the inlet tracts because GDI), and some of this dissolved crud ends up in the oil (although most of it is blown out with the exhaust gasses).
So if you are going to use it all best to do so one or two tanks worth of gas before an oil change.
Regards draining the oil, the jury is out on extraction pump from the top vs drain from the sump plug below as to which method gets rid of more of the old oil.
I have posted elsewhere that the bottom lip of the sump drain hole (which is on the side of the sump not the bottom) sits about the same distance from the bottom of the sump pan as the oil extraction tube does, both around 5 or 6 mm, so in theory it's a wash. It also seems that whichever method you use there is still a helluva lot of old oil left in the engine galleries, at least 1.5 litres, so another reason why it doesn't make a significant difference.
Someone around here posted that they canted the car over a bit so as to get more oil out of the drain hole and it seems to work. I wouldn't try that if using floor jacks and axle stands but it should be OK on a hoist.
It's also a helluva lot quicker and easier to remove the old oil from the top using an extraction pump so that is how I do it now after years of crawling around on my back under the car to remove the plastic under-tray and sump plug. Getting too old and decrepit for that now!

 

Ok thank you for that info. I will do that before an oil change. There is a lot of talk about BG44 Is there consensus that this is a good product to use and what interval should it be used?

 

Hi I love doing my own oil changes so I know it is done right with the right fluids and wipe everything down.
This is my first Jag with the suction tube under the oil filler cap and filter cartridge
Seems very easy and quick.
5k miles is what I do unless I have gone on a trip where we drive hard for several days. ( 2007 Honda S2000 )
Then I do it after the trip regardless of mileage.
I live in Ontario Canada and the Jaguar dealer wants 375 dollars including tax
The oil and filter will cost approximately 120 dollars including tax for approved oil and filter purchased at a auto parts supplier
Not sure why it cost 200 dollars for labour to do an oil change using a mityvac ?
So unless the annual oil change is included in the warranty service, I will likely do it myself

 

BG44k has always been an outstanding product. The only downside is that cannot get at the deposits on the stem side of the valves on our direct injection engines.

 

I certainly let the dealer do it at the free annuals ( this year will be my fifth and last). I will occasionally do it myself depending on mileage, and will certainly continue doing it myself into the future.

 

Yep, lots of opinions that BG44K is the best fuel system cleaner you can get. But they are just opinions and others swear by other products as well.
No set interval I know of, but I whack a tin in every 12 months or so which for me works out around every 6,000 miles.

 

Yes I will have the dealer look things over at the same time I get the annual oil change done.
Are the dealers in the US charging this much for an oil change ?
Seems excessive unless they removed the skid pan underneath
Then I can see that taking extra time and effort

 

All JLR dealerships do it via the top extraction tube, I don't think I've ever read of one that does it via the sump plug.
And they have a powered vacuum pump, no effort required and all the oil (well all that's gonna be got!) is sucked out in a jiffy.
The prices they charge are daylight robbery, 375 CAD you must be joking!
IMHO they work out a fair price and triple it.

 

Over $400 last time I let the local dealer do it (but I got a multi-point inspection!) That’s when I bought the MityVac.

Last year, I did the 6 yr service - oil/filter, cabin and engine air filters, brake flush, and spark plugs. And multi-point...

$1300. Yeah, I about choked too.

 

I can and have done all of that except the spark plugs for $220 AU.
$60 for the oil (I buy it when it's on special at $40 for a 5 litre bottle).
$20 for the oil filter (again I wait for a Fleabay special to pop up and I only buy top quality brand names such as Wix, Mahle, Mann and AC Delco)
$30 for a cabin filter.
$100 for a pair of OEM or equivalent air filters (same deal with Fleabay specials).
$10 for a 500 ml bottle of brake fluid.
$0 for my labour!

The spark plugs don't cost a helluva lot, I bought 6 OEM plugs about 20 months ago for I think around $120 AU.
The big $ is the labour cost to replace the spark plugs as it's a pig of a job, I will get mine done in about 8 months time when the car turns 6 years old, but I will get it done by my favourite Jag specialist independent mechanic and I don't expect to pay more than around $250 AU.

So adding in the cost of the plugs and the labour to fit them I get $590 AU all up which is around $420 US these days.
Which means my guesstimate of triple wasn't far out, especially when you consider that a JLR dealership can get all of these parts for less than the figures I show above.

 

If you don't d0 an oil change after adding the bg44 can you do damage?

Also how exactly do you do the instant oil level check with te can button? I know how to do the check thru the menu? I tried the can button it didn't seem to do anything?is there a sequence? for that?

 

It won't do any direct damage but it's still better to do an oil change one or two tanks of fuel later as the BG44K is dissolving carbon deposits in the combustion chambers and elsewhere in the fuel system and some of this crud ends up in the oil. So I time my addition of BG44K to three or four weeks before the oil change.
And like you the "two presses on the cruise CAN button" has never worked for me, so I just check the oil in the morning on a cold engine or else I wait the prescribed 10 minutes after shutting down the (warm) engine.

 

I posted the procedure in another thread recently. Whether or not the hood has to be open for it to work, I don't know, but I only used it during the last oil change when the hood was open, and it worked for me.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...3/#post2231003

 

Curious to hear if anyone has ever used seafoam to clean their engine and or fuel system? I used it on my four stroke outboard boat motors and all of my vehicles. You can use it as a de-carb as a one time treatment or use a lesser amount to treat all the time. Seems to of worked wonders for all of the motors I put it in.

 

And as a bonus which I have never taken advantage of YET is that will be the LAST oil change you buy. FCP Euro allows you to send back your used oil and filter and they send you a new one each time. I have been using FCP for a couple years on my BMW parts and didn't know the guarantee works on fluids as well.