I recently added a cruise control switch pack. On removing the old switch pack.I noticed that the wires for the paddle shifters had come loose on both sides as the wiring was shorter than the rest so had been pulled as the switch packs came off. They appeared to have been housed in the molex connector housing on the back of the switch pack which I find confusing as my understanding was that they should attach through their own connectors. Can anyone enlighten me? The image is of the two wires on the right side (shift up). I didn't get a clear picture of the left side but can if need be.

The dash now shows "manual shift disabled" though it still drives perfectly in automatic.

If anyone can help me with this I'd be extremely grateful as my searches so far haven't shed any light on why it's wired up like this or which wire goes where.

 

Here’s the schematic, but to me, the schematic doesn’t agree with your picture, if I understand it…


That’s from the last section of the Workshop Manual:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/o6d1x...k7yc02pyx&dl=0

 

Thanks for that!

You're right it doesn't correspond at first glance. Also there seems to be wires that cross from right paddle to left switch pack and vice versa but that isn't what I'm seeing in the wires I have inside.

Curious. I'll take a longer look later when I'm back home.

Thanks again.

 

I’m guessing you don’t have the heated steering wheel option? Those wires appear to be mostly missing. My best guess is that the loose brown (should be orange?) goes to pin 12, 2nd from top in your picture. Unclear about the ground.

It looks like the connections between the switchpack and the clock spring are missing. I assume the bigger harness with the pink insulation goes to the other switchpack and paddle?

 

You're correct, no heated steering wheel option.

Both sides have the lage harness that dissapears into the steering column (I've not followed this further down yet) and the smaller 3 wire harness that goes to the paddle shifters.

You can't quite see from this picture but the blue wire coming from the 3 wire harness actually dissappears into the larger harness so possibly connects across somewhere further down.

 

Facepalm moment. Any chance anyone knows what pin connectors these are? One just snapped when I tried to reinsert it

 

Probably best to demate the connector first, if you haven’t.

 

So I've removed the connector end that was still attached to the wire, I still need to remove the broken piece from inside the block. Then I'll need to find new connector pins to replace the broken one.

Finally, once that's done I'll try to figure out which pin goes where.

I'll post back here once I figure it all out.

 

It might be easier (and cheaper) to replace the steering wheel with a used unit from E-Bay or local (UAE) scrapyard. Re-using your existing airbag, they range from under $200 US on up for a good looking standard wheel without heat and up to $600 US for an excellent flat botton wheel with heat (including shipping in the US). Chasing a switch, connector or wire could take weeks with unbelievable Dealer/JLR "little part" prices plus shipping, not to mention the grief and aggravation.

 

To be honest I got the new right sided switch pack for about £100 from Ebay and the pin connectors are normally around a few £ for a hundred or so. It's the wiring that's tripping me up so you're right about the ease of using a 2nd hand wheel.

That said I've looked at a new steering wheel as I love the flat bottomed ones but I just can't justify the cost right now. It can be a project for the future when I'm more flush.