EDIT: I had a post regarding track mods, but I have decided to try to go "budget" so put some more specific questions in a new thread. Hope I don't brake any forums rules!

Hi guys, especially you that regularly track your cars;

I'm trying to figure out how to upgrade the brakes of the base V6 I just bought as a track toy.

1. What are the best track-focused brake pads available for the base V6 (355/ 325 mm rotors)?

Seems like Pagid's old RSL19 are available for the F-Type (Shape Detail - PAGID Racing), but only for the front. Also, it isn't clear to me whether they fit the 355 mm rotors or the 380 mm rotors. I used the successor, the RSL29, on my previous track car and loved them, so I'm kind of hoping this will work... Has anyone tried the Pagids? If so, what did you complement with in the back? EBC Yellowstuff? At least the color would match, the Pagids are yellow.

2. Rotors. I'm planning on getting StopTech's slotted rotors front and back (126.0024 and 126.0032). Seems like a reasonable price/ performance option to me. Any other suggestions?

3. Brake fluid, not a big investment, but I'm thinking Motul RBF600. Any thoughts?

4. Steel braided brake lines - I can't find any? What have you guys gone for?

Thanks a lot!

 

I don't think 355/325 are up to the task with any pad. You want to get 380 fronts, that are to my best knowledge are direct bolt-on. The only catch is that you need 19 inch rims to clear them. I think bigger calipers will be your best return on investment, with more stopping power per $ than after market rotors and so on.

 

You can do the standard calipers, but you'll need to create brake ducting for them. For a car that will have track focus, brake ducts, track pads and 18" wheels would be a great setup.

 

StopTech and similar are Cars and Coffee mod. Well, technically they are also lighter, if you are trying to reduce unsprung weight at a great cost and for some reason is unwilling to use light racing rims or lighter tires. These aftermarket rotors do not stop better than OEM. Actually, depending on the cut (i.e. star, slots) they will increase your stopping distance due to reduced contact surface.

While it is certainly possible to happen eventually, I yet to boil OEM fluid on my F-type. OEM works fine for me, just make sure you have fresh fluid.

While this mode does help a little bit, exhaust all other improvements as effect of these is marginal.

 

I don't know if it was "verified", but apparently the lines are already SS braided but covered:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...2/#post2131974

 

Hmm, are you sure about this?

To my understanding, larger brake rotors/ pads are for cooling - not for stopping power. You just spread the same amount of force over a larger surface area which helps with temperature but not with total friction. Changing to 380 mm would mean that the increased cooling is worth more than the negative effect of the increased unsprung weight of the larger and heavier rotors. My initial thought would be to improve brake cooling first rather than increase rotor diameter. Maybe I am wrong here?

 

Following your link they are the 380 mm pads, not the 355 mm.
Those pads will NOT fit the 355 mm calipers.
The giveaway is the 193 mm pad length.
Having researched Jag brakes in depth for a few years now that 193 mm measurement is imprinted on my brain!

 

Hmm, what I want are slotted discs that are designed to reduce the risk of pad glazing at high temperature operation. I would happily buy the OEM pads if they were available with slotting for this purpose. I will POUND on my brakes for 3 days straight at each Time Attack round.

This did happen to me in my previous F-Type R on track, using 100% OEM brakes. I will therefore be careful, and race brake fluid is not a big cost.

Yes, you are of course right. In fact, with the floating calipers on the standard brakes I may not even notice the difference. It is more psychological.

 

This is exactly what I wanted to hear! Do I have to create the brake ducting myself or are there after market solutions?

 

Thank you. This pains me to read, but OK. According to your research, what would be the best race ready brake pad out there then?

 

For the base F-Type brakes (355 mm front and 326 mm rear) my best guess is EBC yellows.
However the 355 mm front brakes are common across a wide range of Jags and they are identical in every way so you might find some better race pads for those brakes.
Although 326 mm rear brakes are common across many Jags the F-Type versions are unique to the F-Type (except maybe later 2016 on "base" XJs) so finding race/track pads for them will be problematic.

 

OK, thank you. I was hoping for something a little more purposeful than the EBC's, but I guess I have to suit myself for the choice of track car.

Will look around for pads for the 355 mm front rotors! Thanks!

 

Doubtful you'll find an out-of-the-box kit for the F-Type. If you are determined to make the F-Type into a track car, you are taking a lonely road so a lot of things you will be on your own making happen.

 

This will likely be a very iterative process then... one small step at a time. Oh well, so be it.

 

If it helps...Jag sold ducts for the CC brakes for a few years, part # are in this document about tracking the car.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwcg2spgeb...10851.pdf?dl=0

 

I understand this is how they are advertised, but I am not convinced that it actually works this way. To me, drilling and slotting is just asking for stress fractures in the disk. It also reduces contact surface and that results in less stopping force at maximum application. Now, this reduction might be irrelevant as you are likely to overwhelm traction before that point.

When you install new pads, give them time to properly set... this all I do. If you think you might have issues with high heat, get race pads that are designed to survive that and install cooling ducts.

Maybe your track requires more braking. Maybe cooling ducts I have make a lot of difference. Maybe engine braking makes difference. Maybe I am more careful with cooldown laps.

 

Thanks for the tip, but they seem very hard to find as they are discontinued since quite a few years back. Worth keeping an eye out though...

 

Thought I had a document specifically about them, which might be helpful if you fab your own. But I didn’t find it.

Feel free to look through my F-type document repository. Copy what you like, got most of the docs here.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wgv3e86yc...glFoM3xOa?dl=0

 

Well, I don't want to spawn a debate, but I live in Japan and went to Tsukuba Attack (the home of Time Attack) on Feb 22nd this year and watched the absolutely crazy super fast time attack builds. I just verified by going through my hundreds of photos from that day, but most cars actually have small, slotted front rotors (many with some slot pattern resembling a "plant", see attached picture). These cars are of course race car light and have perfect brake cooling, but it anyhow indicates the Japanese time attack community favours that kind of brake setup. They know what they're doing and many of these teams are iteratively improving their cars year-on-year to shave seconds of their lap times.

 

Brilliant, thank you so much! This is a treasure trove!